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BlueClone - The Blue Room's Own Comms System


Brian

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Looking good.In the 'standard' design they use a plastic block to mount the LED for it to poke through the front panel, CPC have discontinued the original so we have just bent the legs and soldered at the right height the plan was to encase in hot melt but we seem to have forgotten. I like the bezel, does the LED just slide in from the rear? Similar things I've seen don't.
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No unfortunately not. I am just using a panel mount LED as I have a ton of them, and they are pretty bright too! I will just plug this onto a header so I can still remove the PCB if necessary.

I have a few different bezels but they all seem to require the LED be clipped into the housing. Not sure if any of these could be modified?

Something like this might work if you shortened the rear of the clip, might give the panel a cleaner look.

I'm just trying to get some answers out of Elecrow about panelising and routed objects on boards, then I will be able to send them off and get them made with a nice silkscreen!

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I got my boards from Elecrow and found them to be very good, I struggled with the order and ended up with 2 lots of circuit boards during the kerfuffle of the selection of emails that it took to sort out, but read their ordering information correctly [like I didn't] and it should be pain free.As such I have ended up with more than 10 spare circuit boards.The way the standard boards work is for the front panel to stay on the enclosure and removing the 4 screws of the back panel the whole assembly slides out. So it wold be better if the LED bezel could be modified.
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Hopping someone can answer this one as I am will be building some packs and I am also hopping to get time to repaira Axxent intercoms system.

 

I have the master station which water damaged along with 2 packs. Has anyone tryed the Bluecoms with Axxent system at all.

 

I know the master station has a 24v power supply inside it which buggerd when it got wet. I am hopping to build Bluecom power pack. I know I bought 2 board a good few years back (first version)

Edited by dmxlights
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  • 2 weeks later...

If anyone is interested in Bluecom PCBs/panels, I still have:

 

 

Beltpack PCB v1.3 qty 1

Beltpack panel pair in blue qty 1

 

PSU PCB v1.1 qty 7

PSU panel pair in red qty 1

 

PSU panel pair in red, but XLR holes undrilled (iTead mistake) qty 4

 

 

I also have a fair few components left due to MOQ purchases, so if you are struggling I might be able to help out: passives, some ICs, screws, IC sockets, LED stand-offs, XLR3 (for PSU),

 

PM me if you're interested and we can work out some pricing. UK preferred but I can try to help out overseas if you're desperate, but postage can be costly.

 

 

Kevin

Edited by kgallen
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I looked at these, actually have 2 'in stock' but they are 12x7mm, the current hole will need the hole filing out as it is designed for a 10x5mm.

 

 

If we begged Boatman hard enough perhaps we may persuade him to do another version of the panels to accommodate the larger button or perhaps the round version.

Edited by sunray
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Unfortunately the LED is too close to the button to allow for an 11mm round hole; it would also require a change to the PCB. However, a 13mm x 8mm aperture may be possible to accommodate the larger rectangular button.
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Cliff do a 12mmx12mm one in black too<a href='https://www.rapidonline.com/cliff-cp3433-cs12-pushbutton-knob-black-32-2012' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>https://www.rapidonl...b-black-32-2012</a>

As above, it is too big for the led

 

Unfortunately the LED is too close to the button to allow for an 11mm round hole; it would also require a change to the PCB. However, a 13mm x 8mm aperture may be possible to accommodate the larger rectangular button.

I haven't done it, but I eyed it up and thought it will fit. Having said that I have not used the LED mounting block [cpc no longer stock that item] so it takes up less space. My intention has been to apply a blob of hot melt glue but we don't think it is essential as the LED leads are quite short.

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Wow, all the effort has culminated in 6 belt packs and tonight we used 3 for dress rehearsal, and they worked perfectly.

 

We  decided the original mic switch was not an ideal design being so close to the volume control and the complication of getting a gloved finger in the limited space to use the (1) position.

As we ran out of time I mounted one of the original switches upside down on copper wire (strands from 4mm conduit cable. So its 1-0-(1) instead of (1)-0-1. I will need to revisit this as they're currently only held in place by the 3 bits of wire and the hole in the front panel and will fail.

5 of the 6 worked instantly at switch-on, the 6th believe it or not was R27 being very high resistance in the order of several mega ohms.

 

So far we have only one power supply which is a 60VA 18-0-18 torroid, bridge rectifier and a pair of 2200uF caps built into a diecast box. Origin unknown, I added a pair of XLR 3F's and the R-C network, oh and one of the 100uH inductors and 4 off 4700uF's. All a bit of overkill but totally free from the junk box.

 

Massive thanks to Brian and boatman for all of your R&D effort, board designs and help. Plus the several other people I've been chatting to.

 

I've purchased 3 of these: <a href='https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Headphones-with-Mic-for-PS4-Sony-Play-Station-4-PC-Stereo-Wired-Gaming-Headsets/123064152765?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>https://www.ebay.co....872.m2749.l2649</a> which seem to work well but one does have to alter wiring within the cable mounted vol control/mic  switch.

 

Again thankyou and very well done.

Edited by sunray
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