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Hieronymus's Achievements

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  1. Hello there,

    I guess you no longer have the spare parts you talked about here?


    How much did the components for a each belt-pack and the PSU cost? (to plan building my own)

  2. Hi, After building a bunch of stuff and finishing my own BlueComm system (1 PSU, 7 beltpacks) I realized I still have spare parts. I have enough parts to build 1 PSU and 5 beltpacks. This includes the housing, front and back panels (also in aluminium), the PCBs and all the electronics. The PSU is version 1.1 and the beltpacks are version 1.2 Let me know if you're interesed via PM. I just noticed that I have never posted pictures of my complete product. Well, here you can get a sneak preview anyway. http://www.blue-room.org.uk/index.php?showtopic=57825&st=195&p=505452&&do=findComment&comment=505452 Kind regards, Jeroen
  3. Hi, If you can wait untill the Christmas holidays, I might have some time to figure out my parts. I do have the boards for sure, Those I can sell you anyway. I live in the Netherlands, so the whole thing will include extra shipping costs. Let me know if you're interested. Jeroen
  4. Hi, In one of my previous posts I mentioned a improvement on the LED's used. I found them quite hard to mount with the loose spacer.They also didn't look very subtile in the panel.They are quite big and can bend back or damage easily So I looked for these circuit board mount types. I ordered a bunch of these: http://nl.farnell.co...jsp?sku=2373386 (red) http://nl.farnell.co...jsp?sku=2373383 (green) I selected them on size (they sit flush with the edge of the board) and on luminousity. They fit perfectly on the original spot (nice!) I've swaped them in today. Here are the results: They are easily put in place (I cut the two plastic front 'legs' of with a sidecutter).They are smaller (3mm) so look nice and subtileThey don't pertrude the panel so won't take any damageThey fit the budgetI haven't done the math, but the seem to line up with the Original holes very nicely. (these panels are handmade, so the hole for the green LED is a bit to far to the left anyway)Here are a few pics: https://dl.dropboxus...icator_test.jpg https://dl.dropboxus...d_indicator.jpg https://dl.dropboxus...dicator_off.jpg https://dl.dropboxus...ndicator_on.jpg
  5. Hi, 1) You can find the 'orderlist' I made (for CPC and farnell) on my blog here http://www.thinkingtwist.nl/downloads/ (and links are throughtout this topic). As per the Original partlist I have C1, C2 @ 1000V; C8, C13, C26 @ 100V and C15 @ 200V. The power unit has C1, C2, C6 and C8 @ 1000V. The rest is just 'standard' and choices based on brand, price and availabitlity. 2) The big caps for the PSU are chosen to fit the enclosure. So if you look at the schematics, figure out max height and subtract 1mm you probably more accurate. (http://www.farnell.c...ets/1520835.pdf) 3) Your build looks good at first glance * Only your call LED is a bit weird this way. Since the LED should be placed on a spacer and on an angle, I guess the hole in the panel for it is a bit to high (so the LED is not directly in or behind the hole) * It looks like your 'feet' for IC3 is placed backward (notch should be on the top). Be aware of this when you place the actual IC
  6. I guess that I missed this post. I don't recal the PC headset MIC not having the 12V bias. I thought I actually used it. The gain was more then enough though. Also a 12V DC bias is more then a PC motherboard will supply. I'll have some notes on this, so I will check it later next week. The 12VDC bias mentioned in that post is on the headphone output (to ground) if you only use one half of the output bridge amp as there is no isolating capacitor in the original design. I think you added additional flying 100uF caps to solve the problem. The mic input does have a switchable 12VDC bias available. oh, your so right. I should brush upon my amplifier theory...... Indeed, I did add the 100uF cap between HP(+) and the tip/ring of the 3.5mm of the headphone out. (and the sleeve to GND. That way the cap is only 'in the circuit' when a headphone jack is in the socket. Not sure what would happen if you would connect a PC headset this way AND a profi headset via the 4p XLR.)
  7. I guess that I missed this post. I don't recal the PC headset MIC not having the 12V bias. I thought I actually used it. The gain was more then enough though. Also a 12V DC bias is more then a PC motherboard will supply. I'll have some notes on this, so I will check it later next week.
  8. Hi, I've finally found some time to type a bit and take a new picture. The comments are mostly about the panel layout and the implementation for the 3.5mm jacks. Improvements on the design: Switch the mic-switch and side-tone rejection adjustment so the mic switch is furtheraway from the volume knob.Easier to access without disturbing the volume.A bigger switch can be mounted[*]Change the microphone switch to an on-off type Ideal would be the latching push button as on the PSU, but I guess that would take tomuch board space.Something with a bigger lever would be much better and less fiddly for fat fingeredpeople.[*]Change the microphone switch to a vertical moving type (not horizontal) This allows for even bigger fingers to operate the switch easily[*]Remove the 4p 3.5mm jack in favor of two 3.5mm stereo jacks.[*]Add the option on the board for the 100uF capacitor between GND and headphonereturn (and headphone amp +). This was the solution to protect the headphoneamp against common grounded headsets.[*]Make the drill holes for the 3.5mm optional in the panel (or make alternative panelfile)[*]If two stacked PCB mounted 3.5mm jacks are expensive, I'd prefer the panel mountedones. (let me know which ones you had in mind) Costs for the two isolated jacks: 2.15 euro (http://nl.farnell.com/pro-signal/mj-073h/socket-3-5mm-jack-3pole/dp/1267396)Isolated to prevent grounding the whole chassis if using metal panels.Otherwise use the Lumberg (http://nl.farnell.com/lumberg/klb-4/connector-rca-jack-3-5mm-3way/dp/1200144)or even the cheaper multicomp alternative.Cost for the connector 0.32 euro + pins 0.33Doing it panel mount, there is no real solution for the protection cap. (as shown inthe picture)[*]Change the LED's to a circuit board type, like: http://cpc.farnell.com/marl/113-305-04/led-pcb-3mm-red/dp/SC11648 In my BOM there is about 0,25 pound budget to replace a LED and spacer. (this oneis cheaper)It's easier to mountThe LED doesn't stick out of the case that much. (so it will take less impacts andoverall damage)It looks less clunkyThe same applies to the LEDs on the PSU[*]I'm still planning my 'extension' boards for tally signals. It would be useful tochange one of the two GND connections on the header for a VCC (supply voltage) connection.
  9. Hi, Yesterday we had an awesome day at First Tech Challenge Open Dutch Championships. Thursday I spend a day off building 3 more comms so I could use 5 at the event. I'm very happy with the result, the sound quality and I had no issues at all. Ofcourse we allready knew that by benchtesting, but I think this is one of the first tests under 'event conditions'. The BlueCom survivied the worst thing you can throw at any system: actual users http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif Even the sound&light supplier was impressed and asked me to inform him about the project and requested a quote. I'll post my suggestions / feedback later this week. You can find more information on my blog: http://www.thinkingt...tech-challenge/ (and for all the Nerds out there, yes, I was watching Dave Jones' EEVblog while soldering....) http://www.thinkingtwist.nl/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/10000980_796982016989398_8288901_o-1024x768.jpg
  10. For those who are curious... Í've been pushing Boatman and Brian for quite a while. With their support I'll be using the BlueCom on the 29th of this month for the Open Dutch Championships of the First Tech Challenge. I've made a few silly mistakes onlong the way to get there, but I'll report all information. Hope that will help anyone build their own. For easy reference, I've uploaded the pics to my Wannabee-blog. Have a look at http://www.thinkingtwist.nl/development/intercom-build-in-full-swing/
  11. Hi, I was trying to figure out the difference between the BUS connection and the Hybrid out on the molex connector. Both have microphone signal mixed in, but the hybrid has it via the VR1 (50k trim). BUS includes the call signal, but hybrid out doesn't? I'm almost ready for the first test. I'm also making a 'instruction manual' based on my own experience.
  12. Hi, the CPC code for the neutrik screws is: AV18050, I can't find them on farnell... For the belt clip I was looking at walki-talki replacement parts: http://dx.com/s/291188 I was hopling to find somehing below 1,50 euro. So any suggestions will be welcome. I also found Farnell: 148581 or CPC: EN56113, but I'm not sure about them I couldn't find much new about the 4p PS4 headset. Mounting aditional ouputs is a bit easier if you use the 8pin molex. That way you can use panel mounted jacks.
  13. Hi, I think having the heavy cables and XLR connectors below is better. I would attach my clips a bit more near the control panel to ensure it always hangs. When I first noticed this project, I also searched for dual 3.5mm jack pcb mounts, just as you would find on a normal PC motherboard: http://nl.farnell.com/switchcraft/35rapc7js/connector-phone-jack-3way/dp/2154481 They are quite expensive and I'm not sure how such a thing would hold if you would reguarly plug and un-plug it. I think having two 3.5mm input jacks, mounted on the panel connected with some shielded wire is the cheapest and easiest to fix if it does break. It think it's more relaiable then having a converter cable or solder a 4p jack on the two wires of a gaming headset. If time permits, I'll try all scenario's I'm a bit puzzeled with grounding. The current chassis is completely isolated from the circuit. Using panel mounted 3.5mm jacks could change that. Is that something I should avoid? (I was offered having my panels cut out of RVS on a laser thing) This is not a real problem if you use PCB panels.
  14. Hi, In order to 'convert' gaming headsets to the 4p 3.5mm jack, what would be the best sollution? Most of them come with 2 3.5mm jacks which are quite allright (for the price) with a decent lenght of cable. As mentioned before, soldering on this kind of cable is tricky. And having a good strain relief is difficult. Espacialy if you try to get the two wires into one 4p connector. So, I can add two extra 3.5mm connectors through the panel (something that would kill part of the briljance of the design) or I can use a converter cable like: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_cr_asin_lnk What are your thoughts? Kind regards Jeroen PS from a recent test with a few, this one came out quite good: http://nl.creative.com/p/headphones-headsets/creative-fatal1ty-gamer-headset
  15. Normally I don't realy like these kind of posts... but in this case, let me expres my thoughts: WOAHHHHHHH!!! :):D
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