BlueClone - The Blue Room's Own Comms System

[Filmmaker75]

in reference to the earth connection, looking at the wiring diagram I saw that the pins number 4 of SK1 and PL1 have the wording "chassis". Is this what I have to connect to earth? or directly the GND?

Sorry for the non-technical question but I would not make mistakes and damage everything.

[sunray]

in reference to the earth connection, looking at the wiring diagram I saw that the pins number 4 of SK1 and PL1 have the wording "chassis". Is this what I have to connect to earth? or directly the GND?

Sorry for the non-technical question but I would not make mistakes and damage everything.

That is purely to earth the shells of the XLR's to the enclosure and electronic 0v, is done automatically via the main PCB and back panel.

[Filmmaker75]

 

That is purely to earth the shells of the XLR's to the enclosure and electronic 0v, is done automatically via the main PCB and back panel.

 

Thanks for the reply. I solved by changing the power supply. The one I used had the isolated output and even putting together 0v and grounding the electrical noise did not disappear. I purchased a notebook power supply that already has 0v and grounding in common. In this way there is no longer any noise. The shells I used are made of aluminum but have plastic fronts. I simply soldered a cable to each connector and carried it on the aluminum shell after scraping off some paint. Everything seems to work properly now. Thank you all.

[Filmmaker75]

Thank you all for your help. Now I would like some information on some things.

- In headphones I always have a slight whistle that increases raising the volume.

- The general volume is not very high and I am afraid that during a show it may not be enough.

- The sidetone must always be kept at 0. If I raise it, a trigger whistle is generated. It's normal?

- When I press the CALL button there is a loud noise in all the headphones. Can it be avoided in any way?

- How can I make the sound be heard on both sides of the headphones? Do I simply parallel the cables? The current headphones have an impedance of 150ohm.

 

 

These are the headphones I'm using:

 

http://www.superlux.com.tw/upload/function.product.info/5e2a71e7-1b14-4924-a41b-0a795facd7e3/resource/ug_HMC660_HMD660_web_en.pdf

 

Thanks in advance to anyone who will answer.

[callumb]

PCBs Ordered vis JLC PCB. Might get them this time next year but we will see! Now to see what parts have been discontinued/ hard to find from the BOM.

[aottens]

Saw this project today, ordered the pcb's straight away! Sourcing the components right now but I'm having some questions regarding some components, especially because there often are multiple versions.

 

I have found an old basestation in our shop collecting dust, a tecpro MS721, from what I understand this basestation is working with the beltpacks right? So that is the thing where I'm collecting parts for.

 

Here are my questions:

 

1. What is a good substitute for Farnell – 2309743, since it is no longer in stock?
2. Can the testpoint (TP1) be done in another way? 15 euro's for 1 testpoint (I need to buy 100) is a bit much...
3. The TL072,NE5534, J175, BC547 and MPSA14G don't really list the letters/numbers after the part, so does it mather which version to get?
4. I picked, in this order, the TL072CP, NE5534AP, J175-D26Z, BC547B, MPSA14 (farnell 1574389)

I scored a nice deal on the prints on JLC PCB, and I might have some left in the Netherlands once I'm done, I'm willing to sell those if anyone is interested!

 

[boatman]

1: Try Farnell part 1848267.

 

2: The test point can be just a short loop of tinned copper wire.

 

3 & 4: Your choices look OK to me.

 

 

I have used JLC PCB for boards and their quality is good.

Edited April 1, 2020 by boatman

[sunray]

I haven't fitted anything for TP1, PL3 or LED6-x spacer.

I have some of the expensive rectangular Button knobs for SW2 spare. I think 6 and loads of the black self tap screws for the XLR connectors.

The belt packs work well with the MS721.

 

Saw this project today, ordered the pcb's straight away! Sourcing the components right now but I'm having some questions regarding some components, especially because there often are multiple versions.

 

I have found an old basestation in our shop collecting dust, a tecpro MS721, from what I understand this basestation is working with the beltpacks right? So that is the thing where I'm collecting parts for.

 

Here are my questions:

 

1. What is a good substitute for Farnell – 2309743, since it is no longer in stock?
2. Can the testpoint (TP1) be done in another way? 15 euro's for 1 testpoint (I need to buy 100) is a bit much...
3. The TL072,NE5534, J175, BC547 and MPSA14G don't really list the letters/numbers after the part, so does it mather which version to get?
4. I picked, in this order, the TL072CP, NE5534AP, J175-D26Z, BC547B, MPSA14 (farnell 1574389)

I scored a nice deal on the prints on JLC PCB, and I might have some left in the Netherlands once I'm done, I'm willing to sell those if anyone is interested!

 

[callumb]

 

1. What is a good substitute for Farnell – 2309743, since it is no longer in stock?

 

Sorry I bought the last of them.

[callumb]

PCBs arrived! Ordered 26th Mar, arrived 6th April! 11 days and that's on the slow delivery. JLCPCB are spot on and had no issues with the Gerber's.

 

Although I stupidly got the V1.2 PCBs made but thankfully the only difference is a header near the 3.5mm jack!

 

Time to also give my new Yihua Soldering station a run for its money.

 

Full Sized Image Clicky Here

 

http://www.clockworkes.co.uk/bluecom/IMG_3410-700.jpg

[sunray]

For what it's worth I have fitted the jack sockets but not the headers, I simply soldered link wires in place. But be aware the headphones must not be connected to ground and there doesn't seem to be a standard for pinouts on a 4 pole headphone jack, so there may be an element of cutting and linking tracks or rewiring plugs. This assumes you intend to use the 3.5mm socket.

PCBs arrived! Ordered 26th Mar, arrived 6th April! 11 days and that's on the slow delivery. JLCPCB are spot on and had no issues with the Gerber's.

 

Although I stupidly got the V1.2 PCBs made but thankfully the only difference is a header near the 3.5mm jack!

 

Edited April 6, 2020 by sunray

[callumb]

So due to MOQ I have some spare PCBs and parts! I have 4 PSU PCBs and 5 Beltpack PSUs.

 

The beltpacks have all the single resistors so you just need a couple of the larger quantities and the capacitors.

The I have one board that has just a resistors, one that just needs the capacitors and connectors and 3 with the hard to find push switch.

 

See here for a better idea of what I have.

 

£3 + P&P for per board and will throw in the parts with them (The push switches alone on the PSU are £1 each!)

 

Message me if anyone is interested in clearing my work bench!

All Sold

Edited April 8, 2020 by jiggles

[callumb]

So of the 5 packs 1 isn't working right. The call LED won't light when the button is pressed or when there a call on the intercom.

 

Resistors and capacitors that's part of that circuit all come out with the correct value and all the parts are in the right place. Not sure where to begin troubleshooting.

[dmxlights]

I know this may sound stupid check that the led is in the right way. I know I put one in wrong when I was building them and it was on the power supply. There could even be a faulty transistor or an other components. I would say the LED is the first port to call in checking

[Brian]

A simple test is to put a meter on the audio line and press the local call button. You should see a DC voltage on the line approaching the power supply rail voltage.