callumb

Take a look at Shiply. They offer the job to people "going that way" and can be far cheaper than other options. Although you would be sharing with unknown items.

Could be worse! Three users never got the warning.

"Emergency alerts work on all 4G and 5G phone networks and will not include older "non-smart" phones, the government said." So people who are "older" who will most likely not have a smart phone will not get the alert! There's the pit fall of a classic government half assed job. 👏

I have a similar home/ office setup as this guy and also did something similar. Thankfully never had to use it. Currently have Virgin Medias 1gig full fibre new network setup fibre to the premises.

GiffGaff is O2. 🙂

Thats all very well but ATMs wont be working so no cash!

Seems that Apple do all the messages etc for you: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT213426 Dial 911, if it can't connect via any network it will offer you the ability to send an SMS to 911 via satellite with all your needed info on where you are etc. Looks to be more for out in the wilderness than a town or city with no service because of storms etc.

As a former Zettle/ Paypal employee who did some testing between us and competitors the SumUp machines are worse... Also we broke one just knocking off a desk onto a carpeted floor... Not a good look. Their readers are poor for those with low or poor visibility as they are just a sheet of glass with no defined buttons. The Zettle app is far more comprehensive in features and more to come! The only thing that SumUp has for it is the cost but if you are putting a decent card volume though then Zettle could match it or beat it if you ask! Especially if you're a registered charity! The issues you have been experiencing sound like an issue with the tablet than the readers themselves. If you have more up to date iPads you might find the issues disappear! Although what readers are you using? What colour is the wee flag? Green or Blue? *theses are my own personal thoughts on the readers and services while I was employed with Zettle/ Paypal for a while I am no longer working for them and the above is my own personal judgement after testing.

All very well but how fast do they update via a Zero88 desk? I have tried something similar with a 3rd party DMX to Hue via the Hue bridge and unless you only ever do fades and don't mind a considerable delay then they are useless for live productions. Even using them with the app they are painfully slow to update.

Anyone got a UK supplier of the foam driver surrounds for a pair of JBL Control 1s? I got a pair here that have no foam left on them and they work fine other than that. I can find stuff from Europe or the US but the postage is an arm, leg and two kidneys for a £5 part! Worst case scenario is a new pair of drivers but that would make the deal I got not any better than buying new so unless someone has a pair kicking about then I would rather refoam what I have. Cheers Callum

Thanks everyone for their input. Seems its a "your results may very" so I am going to have to just play about and see what happens when the kit arrives. I will try something passive as a starting point and see how I get on avoids the need for powering and extra bits.

Being budget conscious and looking at ways of making life easier I am looking at using something like this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/labgear-1-way-combiner-splitter/49019 to combine two 863 - 865 MHz radio mics into one pair of standard radio mic receiver aerials or paddles when needed. I would get the proper splitter but seems a huge over kill for two units in the one rack! Feel free to tell me I'm a total plank for thinking that this is a good idea as I am no RF expert! 🙂

These are Maplin specials so finding out any info on them will be near impossible! Best of luck in trying to fix them but I would say buying something newer would be cheaper in the long term.

I will 4th the recommendation of Tinkercad! Its stupidly simple to use! For printing You will be cheaper long term to buy your own than have someone else do it. You can pick up a Creality Ender 3 V2 for £200-£300 (The printer I have) and print off 5 times the amount vs somewhere like 3DHubs!

https://www.nme.com/news/music/government-announces-1-57-billion-support-package-for-uk-arts-industries-2701834 Possible light at the end of the tunnel for the industry or it could be a train...

Success! 5 packs and a PSU. Taken longer to get finished as I stupidly selected slow shipping from JLC on the front panel PCBs and need to pick up another case as I decided to make 5 packs instead of 4.

So in follow up to this it was a break in the track from the LED to the transistor caused by my gorilla like soldering.

https://www.clockwor...om/BOM-0.7.xlsx This is from someone else on this thread but cannot remember who it was! (Sorry) It has the Farnell part numbers on it :)

I cracked open the volume and mic switch part, removed it all and wired straight through. Mines had: Left - Blue, Right - Green, Mic - Red, Striped blue/ Copper - Audio ground, Copper/clear - Mic Ground with the Mic and audio grounded at the plug end so needed some tinkering! So I ended up wiring like this and seems to work: Blue and green to Tip (blue on plug side of the cable), Stripped to ring 1 (green on plug side of the cable) Red to ring 2 (Stripped on plug side of the cable) Clear/copper to sleeve (red on plug side of the cable) Hopefully someone finds this useful and avoids cooking things.

Let's take a step back and look at this before jumping. First of all:Do your headsets have 4 pole jack plugs? [or indeed 4 pole XLR]Have you fitted 4 pole jack sockets? If answer to both is yes, you need to check the plug and socket are wired the same. IIRC you have the boards without the 4 pin header for the jack socket. Do you have a multimeter to be able to confirm the headphones are connected to R16 & R20 and mic screen is connected to GND & core connected to R9/R10 etc when plugged into the pack. I have several sets of these: https://www.ebay.co....SEAAOSwJ8hcqJCz and after rewiring they work well so I see no reason your can't get yours working. It might be worth checking R8, R16 & R20 to ensure they haven't failed. I got the exact same headphones. So I have one headset working as expected after much fiddling thanks Sunray for the pointers helped massively. The other has a broken mic from new so that will have to get replace and why I wasn't getting anywhere with it and was just chasing my tail!

It lead me down the right path and after wiring it up so the headphones are connected only to the out and not connected to ground and the microphone connected to ground and mic I can't get anything out of both headsets. Tried twiddling the side tone etc dead silence. Tried with and without the bias voltage. Might just bite the bullet and buy the right headsets than faff about with these.

So my stereo PC Style headsets arrived for testing the packs with. Plugged in and smoked R8... Checked wiring Mic and Headphones share a common ground (doh - they are stereo after all!) thankfully they have an in volume and mic mute so wired it so the left headphone is over Tip and R1 and the mic over R2 and Sleeve. Plugged it back in and the new R8 smoked again! No issues when theres no headset plugged in. What could I be doing wrong to cause R8 to smoke.

I have ordered more of the two transistors. Should have bought more than the exact amount! Will report back when the eventually turn up.

The LED is the right way round. It lights up very very dimly when you (accidentally) touch the pins. When the call button is pressed it does call the other packs so that part works.

So of the 5 packs 1 isn't working right. The call LED won't light when the button is pressed or when there a call on the intercom. Resistors and capacitors that's part of that circuit all come out with the correct value and all the parts are in the right place. Not sure where to begin troubleshooting.