sleah

If you are feeling brave there is fixture creator software, or 'personality editor' as ETC call it. Not too hard for pars'n'bars, but can be quite challenging to create a personality for a mover - probably take a couple of tries to get it spot on!

Interesting that the older the theatrical type lantern, the more recyclable it is! But it's more than just power usage that LED has advantages over. After using an LED rig, you'd hate the thought of going back to all tungsten - mainly due to colour. Shame modern LED isn't more modular and standardised. If LED emitter engines and control units were plug'n'play there would be no need to scrap a complete unit when a LED engine fails (yes, I know some top end kit can have a replacement engine, but will a compatible one be available in 10 years?) or control circuits fail. Or be scrapped simply due to age and much brighter versions available with extra colours - how cool would it be to just upgrade the emitter engine and a PCB by plug'n'play to effectively create a new light! Of course despite technical challenges it could be possible to fix a LED nearly as easily as changing a tungsten lamp, but "it's all about the money!" 🤔 The planet will have to wait a bit longer....

Well said Paul. Of course everything is politicised these days. If someone's soup isn't hot enough from the local cafe, it'll probably be "the bl00dy Tories" fault. In my town we have a labour town council and a tory shire council. Anything wrong be it pot holes or houses being built, it's blamed on the political party rather than the actual plebs that make the descions. It's quite funny when someone is bleeting on about this "bl00dy labour" council not fixing the roads, when it's actually the Tory run shire council who are responsible...

I've memories of an animated PSV about nuclear attack. Might even be what FGTH sampled for 'Two Tribes'. Scared the ***p out of me too.

I'd like to reinforce Jon's comment about charging, especially as you've asked what's best. I suggest you play safe and disconnect batteries for charging, either by a mechanical switch or physically disconnecting the battery. Simplest is probably sealed lead acid - like used in alarms and computer backup supplies. They are readily available, robust and easy to use as they don't need holders and you only need one assuming 12v. You can charge them using a decent 'smart' charger as mentioned, a good car charger would do the job if you're usure what to get. Just look for one's that have multi-stage or trickle charging.

There isn't a black & white right or wrong answer. There is of course 'best practice' for best quality and efficiency. Setting an amp control to say 50% won't stop the amp being max'ed out. The 'user' can simply push the faders/master to max, even the trim pots. Which could easily max out the amp not to mention introduce a ton of distortion. A skill many DJ's have.... My take is to first set gain structure up to the amp (keeping amp at minimum initially) - I tend to go for 0db or 75/80% ish fader level for both channels and masters (to give a little head room), set input trim pots to give a similar level on VU meters (depends how they are marked) then look at amp controls to set the maximum volume in the particular space. This based on using analogue amps that don't have built-in limiters etc or using anything else between mixer and amps. Even using extra kit be it limiter/compressors or crossovers, the principal for gain structure and result of getting it wrong and over driving speakers is the same.

Vodafone here. I got it at 3:15pm.

Interesting! So I'm second guessing here and without any expert knowledge of RF. Was it tuned to something which directly clashed with radiomics/iems? Possibly it was on Ch36 (IIRC Ch36 was one of the 'defaults' for VCRs etc - my memory maybe failing though..) and causing co-channel interference on Ch38? Got it in the back of my head some uhf modulators were set to Ch69 as default - again memory dodgy! For anyone not familiar, uhf modulators on VCRs / Computers (Yes! Many had rf only display outputs!) / video games etc could often be re-tuned to anywhere from Ch21 to Ch69.

I suspect that rather than another page bringing down playback 180, rather the 'other' playback is changing the attributes on the same fixtures as those in PB180, which is kinda the same thing, if you know what I mean! Without looking, I can't recall if there is a setting to change from HTP (highest take priority) to LTP (lowest takes priority) behaviour on playbacks. I'll have a tinker when I get chance and report back, unless you find the answer beforehand.

You've pretty much nailed it there. Quality of sound also affects perception of loudness. I've dipped in and out of the mobile disco game for 35 years and have experienced everything in terms of volume and quality in that environment. With a top-quality system it can be very loud and you not realise. Take being at a large corporate event or a decent nightclub, you may not realise just how loud it is because it sounds great, it is comfortable to listen to and you're thinking it's not as loud as it might be, until you speak and nothing comes out! Then you realise it's pretty loud - quality source, quality kit, good gain structure/EQ and an operator who knows the limits of the system. On the flip side, down the boozer with Sixty-Quid-Sid on the wheels of steel, your ears hurt and you feel uncomfortable despite him only pumping out 200W - because he's using low bit rate mp3s from a headphone out on a cheap lappy, no-name mixer, bass/treble at max and screwing the ar5e out of it all.

Maybe it's to try and drown out the audience singing....... 😶

Fantastic! I do love it when a plan comes together 😁

Despite living in an area with alegedly good coverage of all the "G"'s, I often can ONLY get 3G which will be exciting once it's switched off. Is it possible to have a system that works across all "G"'s? Genuine question, I know sod all about how these alerts work.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm probably going to go for the simple option of bolting a G-clamp straight to the captive nut. I did a quick trial at ground level and it'll be fine for what I need. Plus a safety wire of course!

The underside of the mode switch doesn't look too healthy, plus it looks like the grand master slider (& it's neighbour) is seperating. Could it be as simple as the grand master slider not making contact so effectively staying at 0 regardless of physical position?

I would have asked if you'd gone to whichever "Of" is the appropriate regulator. Ofcom I assume. However, they don't deal with individual cases and besides they are as much use as an ashtray on a motorbike/chocolate fire guard/other useless item of choice.

I've got the brackets but tend to think it's easier to adapt out of the threaded hole than adapt the bracket. Being plastic I wouldn't like to try u-bolts on to some m10 studding which could otherwise be a neat solution. Making an adaptor bracket to attach to the 4 mounting holes could be an option I suppose. Or, maybe get a steel plate made the same size as the wall bracket and then use u-bolts or have a short m10 bolt welded to said plate? Hmm..

I'd like to mount some JBL Control 1 Pro's on lighting bars. They'd be more or less straight down, maybe 20/30 degrees from vertical (or would that be from horizontal? ** laughs out loud ** From straight down anyways!) I suppose the obvious thing is to mount a G clamp or half couple direct to the threaded hole on the back of the speaker with appropriate washers/sleeves to allow for the larger hole as I thinks it's only an m6 threaded hole. Just wondered if anyone else has mounted Control 1's to bars and how?

Worth looking on the UNICOL website, they make things that pretty well attach anything to anything, and very securely at that.

Quite why I suggested plug in timeswitches when you clearly said (and I also mentioned) you were running on batteries is beyond me. Proper senior moment there! 😂

I'm sure there is software with real time clocks and I'm sure someone will be along to advise. However, I'm thinking if you use a DMX solution it means leaving the units powered on (at 0%), is there still a chance the batteries won't last? Would something as crude as plug in timeswitches work?

I'd say more a question of why you would not do it. Assuming you are competent to do a PATest and can deal with a fail, then just do it. A Decent basic Martindale tester can be picked up for ~£300-£400ish so not a huge investment in the great scheme of things. To really satisfy venues get yourself on day or half day PAT course - again not a huge amount of money. You could then offer PATesting for some extra pocket money 🙂

Great trick. Love the comments section - especially those suggesting how it's done assuming a real working nail gun 😮 If there's even the slightest risk that something could go wrong - a risk that can be foreseen and avoided - then don't do it, find an alternative. Find a way to suggest to the audience that the nail gun (or prop that looks like one) is being fired just like Penn & Teller did. Suspension of disbelief and all that....

Looking for some advice. I've (well, the school) been given an LS932. All seems to work fine but a couple of the faders are sticking, not always returning to the bottom or not quite reaching correct position, I don't think it's just calibration. I've had a search online and there's conflicting information and opinions mainly revolving around 'Deoxit' products, for some it is a miracle product, for some it destroys the faders! Thoughts please! 🙂

We do! We have a H&S officer, who chairs a H&S committee. It would be impossible for one person to be competent in all areas of H&S, especially in a school, so the committee is made up of people who represent various areas of the school who are competent in their area. The main being Estates, Sports, Science, Medical, D&T and so on which seems to work quite well. As a committee, pretty much all bases are covered. Whether or not other schools have similar, I suspect not in the state sector (we are independent).