sandall

Seems to be a 50 LED panel, so MIGHT be universal voltage, but as Dave says - no rating plate? no touch! Another supplier's price includes shipping from US, so who knows?

Yes🙂

pm sent

Problem solved. I've now found a "service manual" (exploded drawing & parts list).

To be pedantic, these will (should) be XLR, rather than DIN sockets, but to answer your question, yes you should be able to use both at the same time. Your dimmer rack should have a termination resister built in (though there may be a switch or jumper involved). The purist answer for the leds is yes, terminate the last one with a 110(-ish) Ohms resistor, but they will probably be fine without.

Good choice. You always need spares.

Yup, those

No. The K&M gooseneck linked to has a male 3/8" thread at the mic end. The bottom end will be female, but the listing doesn't say whether it's 5/8" (in which case it will fit the desk-mount directly) or (more likely for K&M) 3/8" (in which something like john-sp's adaptor is what you need). Worth looking further in CPC, as there are a lot of cheap 5/8" - 5/8" goosenecks around, which just need the adaptor at the mic end (unless your mic-clip has a 5/8" thread, in which case no adaptor needed). That adaptor looks like it might be aluminium - maybe worth looking around for steel or plated brass.

Has anyone got any experience of taking these little beasts apart? (I need to get to the PSU). It looks straightforward, but I'm going through a phase of breaking things at the moment, so trying to be cautious🤔.

Other genders are available🤔

There's nothing particularly complicated. What are you trying to do?

Going from XLR to 3-pole jack & back again might be easier/cheaper.

AFAIK you won't find any inline sockets with them, but most decent panel jack sockets come with or without break contacts.

Spigot socket on the stand, half-coupler & stand-spigot, short length of aluminium scaff.

Ah, that makes sense

The 7W Thomann thing looks like it wouldn't do for anything bigger than a child's bedroom, unless the ambient lighting is very low, but if there's a bigger version? The Rosco thing looks clever, even if it does look like it's made of plastic, but I can't work out how the light gets through (it appears to have DMX in & out, so maybe this is not the correct image?).

Maplins, & Tandy before them, were quite good value for 50%-off sale items. And were useful to have around for that component you really need today.

Some years ago I had to replace a different dead (& no longer available) Martin Eq unit. The Martin replacement was a bit on the pricey side, so we used a TC X024 speaker management unit, & adjusted it by ear. I think the M1 was also superseded a while back, but if you have access to test gear* you could sweep the input with a tone-source & measure what comes out of the outputs, which will at least tell you what Martin intended. *If not, there's an excellent phone app called AudioTool, which has all you need. Interestingly, the venue where I still dabble has a mainly ICT300 rig, with a bit of low-level buzz on 1 speaker-pair. We've always assumed that it's a dodgy jack-socket on the PO-style jackfield, but maybe I'll try swapping M1's around to see if the buzz moves.

RM & IEM seems the easy way to go, ideally using a lip-mic & beltpack (you might need a transformer (or capacitor) to isolate the usual 5v-ish polarising volts on most beltpack inputs - ribbon mics aren't keen on being fed unbalanced DC). Or you could still use your Tecpro headset, & connect it to RM & IEM beltpacks.

Also, add more screws & see if you can add more bracing?

Interesting sounding layout. On the (possibly wrong) assumption that the heaviest use (& the greatest need for consistentcy) is on the classroom side, I think I might leave that side patched 1:1, but patch the other desk so that the channels run from SR-SL & DS-US on that side as well.

Don't suppose they have a battery for the eprom memory? I ask because my TV died last night & I pulled out an analogue set & a Freeview box (which was programmed for a different area). Rescanning worked fine for about 5 mins, then, whatever button I pressed, it reverted to the previous channels. I finally worked out that there must be a battery that has died while it was in storage. Unfortunately it looks like I will need a hacksaw to get at it (a 2nd box rescanned fine, but then "lost signal" after about 10 mins! Ho hum).

Bear in mind that over a 10m length DMX will quite happy run on wet string!!

If you want to do it yourself the short answer is - Connect your existing cable from the console to the splitter input, & connect the splitter "through" port to your dimmers. This gives you all the splitter outputs for your LED lights, & means that if the splitter fails your dimmers won't be affected, as the input & through ports will be hard-wired together.

The go-to would be De Sisti, but no idea of prices.