sandall

Is the problem just that the socket is a very tight fit, or is the pin in the socket too big for the plug? You can check by comparing the T-bone plugs with your Sennheiser ones. Assuming the problem is that the plugs have a 2.1mm hole & the receivers have a 2.5mm pin (it's a while since I've installed any XSW, & the handbook doesn't say) it might be easier (& a lot cheaper) to cut off the plugs & replace them with the correct-size ones.

Amazon & Storkz claim to have it in stock at around £80.

The I-Rig featured on the same page is line-level. Bit more expensive but also comes with a headphone jack.

Just spotted a couple of boxes near the ceiling of my office. No idea what's on them, as all sorts of BBC gear used them, but definitely not Pulsar software. May even have the odd 8" disk lurking somewhere.

Thanks. Look encouraging

Thanks Kerry, but I stopped using Amazon when they stopped being a bookseller. I did try CK, but couldn't find just a set of tiny ones (I don't really need yet another do-everything set of tools). E2A: CK seem to have moved upmarket & the Amazon (& similar) Chinese sets don't look as if they would survive their first encounter with a screw🙁. Guess I'm going to have to keep hunting for the old ones.

Sorry Dave, they're in my garage🙁. Useless as screwdrivers, but quite good for getting mud out of trainer treads.

Which reminds me; for decades I used a little CK set of watchmaker's screwdrivers (about 3" long, 5 sizes from <1mm to about 2mm, in a little yellow plastic wallet), but it vanished a few months ago. Having given up on attempts to find it, I'm now having no luck trying to source a replacement.

The ebay one is a bit complex for your needs. The Pulsar might need rewiring, as they used no-standard pin connections (on the other hand, so might your box). The Ultra & jpleisure ones would both be fine, provided that the 5-pin XLR DMX socket is actually connected to anything (you would need to borrow or hire a simple DMX desk to check). I would suggest looking for "6-channel analogue lighting desk". In the unlikely event you can't find any I have a couple of barely used Zero-88 ones knocking around somewhere. E2A: Richard can obviously type faster than me.

I've installed the mono ones (a while back now) but seem to remember that there was also a stereo one. Canford do a very neat RDL unit, but it's only mono.

After reading the obits maybe there doesn't seem much else to say?

....however you tweak the colours🙁

I do sometimes use FST for short bodge-leads & patch-cords, but no, not for installs.

I would be concerned about any supplier who used these appalling cheap'n'nasty Switchcraft lookalikes for anything that might ever be unplugged.

Towel rail? 250 & 500W.

I think it's an EU thing. EVERY tool on sale, & every procedure that uses a tool, however minor, carries a "risk of injury" warning, usually involving goggles, if not hazmat suits.

"Ancient" suggests 1-1/4" x 1/4". If it's just the cap you need there are probably quite a few lurking in older members' junk drawers/boxes.

I would expect the camera to have a mic pre-amp (which supplies the phantom power), & the audio out to be either line-level or switchable mic/line level. To connect a mic to the diginow you would need an external mic amp (lots around from £20).

Hmm. The maker's description should be taken with a very large pinch of salt. As there only appears to be a single wire leaving the mic end (& as 3-pin XLRs only handle mono signals) it can't be stereo. If the actual mic element is at the back of the silver tube it may be a bit directional (if it's at the front it won't be). If there is no battery it expects power from the camera, & would normally be fitted with a mini-jack connector, for use with a consumer camera (XLRs are usually only found on professional & semi-pro cameras), but when I was playing with consumer DV cameras years ago I seem to remember that there was an EU ban on consumer cameras which could take an external mic, to stop professionals using them. The bottom line is it won't work with your camera without some sort of interface unit, & if you switch the 48v phantom on you will almost certainly destroy it. Sorry. E2A: Yes the Rode would be ideal. You can use an AA battery, but the 48v phantom power on the camera should give you more headroom.

Mics that quote 1.5v power usually have a button cell or an AA battery somewhere inside. Have you tried unscrewing the mic end from the body?

Having decided what you need you may well find there is a local supplier you can visit (I found a local one by chatting to someone I saw carrying a sheet of HD foam).

You don't get a professional camera mic for £20. This one claims to be stereo & uses a 1.5v battery (is it really what's on the camera?). Connecting it to 48v would produce a small (or not so small) puff of smoke. If this is really what came with the camera check that it has a working battery, but if you want serious sound look for 2nd-hand Rode or Sennheiser camera mics.

I had a few things mounted on 35mm Bose/Ramsa-type speaker plates that I wanted to put on lightweight 32mm speaker stands. A rummage in the garage produced some ends of 1-1/4" (32mm) plastic waste-pipe, left over from various DiY plumbing jobs. A lengthwise cut down about 1" of it, & either some gaffer or another layer of pipe - job done.

The easy solution involves some plastic water pipe & a hacksaw🙂

The plastic inners in some cheap XLRs have a remarkably low melting-point (but then tend to set rock-hard when cool)🙁