sandall

They also do a 24-page guide to maintaining Portable equipment, but I don't have a link to hand.

To wrap this up - thanks to the kindness of kgallen & DrV I now have a working mic. If anyone wants to try this at home - The cover that holds the red button can be levered-off by inserting a sharp blade over the locating tab on the body. The switch is a custom 6mm tactile, (presumably) surface-mounted on to an inaccessible PCB. In both my cases the little metal cover-plate had already been forced off by the users, so the plunger & tactile disc were loose. NB: the plunger is a very small keyed octagonal piece of plastic, very easily lost, & not replaceable. As has been suggested above, a replacement tactile disc can be sourced by cutting a standard 6mm tactile switch apart, but the discs come in various pressures and, more importantly, different diameters. The correct diameter is 4.5mm (4.8 won't fit; 3.5 will be too loose & may not switch reliably). Using a piece of sticky tape to hold the red button in its hole might save you accidentally turning the mic over & losing all your bits.

Cheers Dave. PM sent

It is, but it should be extractable with a bit of brute force. I can't change the switch, so need to drop a new disc into the existing switch body.

No iron required, just a tin-opener - I only want the little tactile disc.

Suggest you send the photo to Steeldeck, who took over Hall Stage. I don't recognise the track, but to me nylon runners are quite modern, rather than very old🙂

Thanks for that Dave, though the last thing I need is any more AA batteries😃

Thanks Ray, but at that price it's hardly worth getting your hacksaw out😃

Short of going down the IEM route, this sounds a good starting point.

No local noise boy you can get in for the day for a few cans?

For what it's worth - back in the days of fixed-freq crystal txs I remember being able to use a mix of makes on 173.8, 174.1, 174.5 & 175.0, but adding 174.8 caused intermod with at least 1 of the others.

Thanks Dave, certainly looks very similar. I may be sorted thanks to another BR-er, but if not am I just looking for any 6mm tactile switch?

PM sent, but couldn't work out how to add the sketch. Diam is 4.5mm. Might be what's inside a 6mm Alps switch?

Likewise. I'm currently spending hours on the phone (that I can't/won't charge for) trying to source a probably non-available tiny piece of metal, just to save a friend's church the cost of a Sennheiser repair.

No, but take off the plastic outer & it well might. Well spotted, thanks. I'll have another chat with the spares man & see if I can persuade him to measure the width.

Unfortunately it's not really a "switch", just 3 loose parts, held in place by the cap, sitting on a bit of pcb. Dismantling a tactile switch is a thought, but how many would I need to destroy before I found one with a 4mm diam disc with 1mm travel?

Just realised that both my sons are older than I was when I "retired"🤔

I recently posted about vandalised XSW power switches. Having got the replacement buttons (thanks Stuart) one mic is now sorted. The active bit of the switch is a tiny dished metal disc, which clicks in when pushed down & clicks back when released. Unfortunately the disc in the 2nd mic has lost its mojo & just reverses its shape when pushed. It's not listed on Sennheiser spares list & the church can't afford a new mic, or even a Sennheiser back-to-Germany repair. Now to the topic title - has anyone got, or know of, a dead XSW-1 handheld gathering dust? Doesn't need to be complete, & doesn't need to work, provided that when you push the power button you hear a click. Already tried fleabay & all the dealers I know.

Well, the only way to remove the bit of body that covers the switch seems to be brute force with a sharp penknife. That's the easy bit; the "switch" is actually 2 tiny pieces of metal & an equally tiny piece of plastic, all of which need to be orientated correctly, & all of which will fall on the floor when you pick the mic up!! Unless you have good eyesight, a good lighting & good luck you may never see them again, in which case you now have a non-mic😥.

I once had a guitarist park his pedals a floorboard's thickness away from the loop feeder cables - also quite exciting.

(Still somewhat off-topic, but...) The EV horns I used were similar to your metal ones, but with curved ends & made of GRP. Re the flow-chart - if you're showing feature-film DVDs (which one of "my" churches does) then it needs to be stereo, but even if it's all "yesses" a small worship band should probably still be mixed down to mono.

I have several HBD12s, used them for "budget" events, where both coverage & throw tend to be more than adequate, but my first experience of outdoor horns was big EV (very) rectangular horns, where vertical mounting gave a noticeably wider spread. Returning to topic - it sounds like you have plenty of scope to mount speakers where you want, Richard, so a centre-cluster is probably your best bet. Re Jon's last post - for my last 2 church jobs I retained the existing pair of Philips columns, which were still fine, & added a couple of full-range speakers below them for music. Stereo in both cases, but maybe I should have stuck to mono?

Those are the Evolutions - with a different PIA button problem🙁

Thanks for that. I suppose I'm going to have to collect them & work out how they come apart.

One of my local churches is killing the power switches on their Mk.1 XSW handhelds. Does anyone know whether Sennheiser still mend things?