sandall

Wickes 18mm 8'x4' is still £40.

My 64-bit laptop seems quite happy running 32-bit software (& even old DOS programmes). Have you tried running it in compatibility mode?

If it's a feedback resistor it's probably got DC across it, hence the crunchy sound (my old Seck mixer used the same technique for the mic trim-pots). You've presumably already tried a squirt of cough-medicine?

Thought for a moment you meant the nitrous oxide cylinders that blight our pavements

I've had F1s in trolleys (with the power-lead cable-tied in place), which gave no problems for many years, but I won't take an F1 out on a job any more. TBF I only had one Notepad disaster; it was brand-new & instantly replaced by the dealer.

My problem with the Notepad & F1 is the crappy little 3-pin power connector - had (loud) disasters on both when the 0v pin lost contact. E2A: As it's a week since the question was asked, maybe we are just talking among ourselves?

(Seems to be a slight echo here Paul🙂). Following on from Paul, I think I would specify the individual recorders as Mic 1, Mic 2, Mic 3, etc., so "Take 2, Mic 1" would be the 2nd attempt, as recorded from Mic 1 (I'm assuming all the individual recordings will be sent to a multitrack recorder, so Mic 1 would be recorded on Track 1, & so on). Wildlife sound-recordists talk of "capturing" sounds, but I think the word Capture is more usually associated with video (Edit: also Clips).

I've got a couple of the non-SFX 1202s, which are fine for comedy or talks/presentations, where I can live with the lack of PFL. The main weakness is the inadequate heat-management of the PSU (a common Behringer problem). Their kit used to have a reputation of working till it suddenly didn't, so I always carry some sort of backup. Surprised that his 451s aren't happy with 18V - I thought they were 9-52V.

Maybe 2, but probably 3😥.

I would argue the opposite. If you don't sort out your gain structure while setting up, any distortion or excessive mic-preamp noise is locked-in by the time you get to the ADC stage. El-cheapo mixers (& some less cheapo) won't have PFL, but there is usually some (if convoluted) way of checking levels on each input before you hit Record. Would agree that the £39 £33 mixer is, for various reasons, the weak link.

Well spotted. Also, it has no level metering, both factors which might rule it out. The Behringer Xenyx 802S is probably the cheapest option at £77. It has reasonable metering, & would allow you to add music if wanted. https://www.thomann.de/gb/behringer_xenyx_802s.htm

Fair point, but this project presumably only involves a single (mono or stereo) track &, to quote the OP "there is no budget". As a long-time Cool Edit Pro / Audition user I'm not a great fan of either, but Audacity does seem the obvious choice for a beginner (& doesn't need a 462 page manual !!)

Perhaps, but it's not something for a novice (I've had a 90-year old editing on Audacity in about 10 minutes). Also, Audacity is (really) free, Reaper ain't.

(Missed the rather short "Edit" window) Depending on the acoustics of your recording space you may need to add a bit of acoustic treatment to any hard surfaces that might give reflections. You can buy (more or less) expensive acoustic foam, but a duvet or two will work just as well. I can't see any reason why you can't record straight onto your laptop (you may find useful software bundled with the mixer). I have no idea what, if any, additional software you will need for the streaming side, but there are plenty of people on here who will know. Unless someone else is monitoring the sound (preferable) it might be worth investing in a couple of pairs of closed-back headphones & a cheap headphone splitter.

There ae cheaper cardioid mics around (the "broadcast" look of the MB-7 comes at a price). You will also need a couple of stands to mount your mics (preferably with shock-mounts). Look at Audacity for recording (& editing?).

Assuming you want to light someone from say 5' to 6'6" high, head & shoulders, a quick sketch suggests you need around 15-20 degrees beam angle (best checked on site). Thomann offer at least 2 cheap LED profile spots. The Eurolite LED-PF20 is dimmable, but has a max beam angle of 19 degrees https://www.thomann.de/gb/eurolite_led_pfe_20_ww_profile_spot_bk.htm. The Varytec Mini offers a 15-30 degree zoom, but isn't dimmable (which may or may not be a problem, but saves the need to also buy a DMX controller) https://www.thomann.de/gb/varytec_led_profile_mini_ip65_3200k_bk.htm. Both are "warm white" (tungsten-ish) colour temperature &, importantly, don't have cooling fans. If you move up a price bracket there is obviously more choice.

Thanks. Useful to know.

I tend to use a fresnel for this sort of scenario, but my TV colleagues would always use a profile (fresnel barn-doors only have an effect if the lamp is flooded, so much of the light output gets wasted).

Have a look at the CPC range - from £35 upwards - https://cpc.farnell.com/helvia/stile-550s/550mm-s-gooseneck-microphone/dp/MP35703

I did think about making a tool from a bit of metal tubing, but thin long-nose pliers still seem to do the trick.

One of my ex-venues, a large public hall (now turned into a library!) used to stage boxing matches. Presumably just lit by house-lights, as the only lighting positions would have given a 30 deg angle from the sides, blinding both contestants & audience.

One of my local churches had been wired with GPO multicore cables (including a remote box to short out individual pairs). Unfortunately the pair colours changed with every junction box, which made chasing dodgy mics a bit of a pain (in the end I just rewired the whole system in FST).

From setting zero I reckoned it wouldn't be too far out by the time it got to 2mm🙂 Fergus, it would be useful to know what pin size (& model number) your XSW PSUs are.

Returning to the OP's question - it looks like you are going to need the drill trick after all. I had assumed that Sennheiser used the "standard" 2.1mm size, like Trantec, etc, but no. They do a NT2-UK PSU, which is 2.1mm, with a plastic "collar" at the tip (I have 4 of them, but no idea what they fit - Freeport?), but EW G1 & G2 (I don't have any G3 or G4) use a NT2-1, which is 1.7mm, with spring contacts, rather than just a tube. The original XSW uses a NT2-3, the XSW1 uses a NT12-5 & the Sennheiser ADU uses a NT1, but I can find no indication of pin sizes for these. I suspect the Thomann is actually 2.1mm (which would suit most makes), suggesting the XSW is 1.7mm, but the only way to be sure is checking with 1.5mm & 2.0mm drill bits. Yes Ray, I did measure my drills first (all within 0.01mm of nominal).

Pretty sure it will be the usual Sennheiser 2.1mm. Interestingly the first review on the Thomann site mentions exactly the same problem as you, which suggests it has 2.5mm sockets. Never thought about using drills to check PSUs Dave - thanks for the tip (no pun intended).