Brian

It's interesting that it's compulsory to use the Philips lamp if you want to get your building permit signed off in Dubai .

Hmmm, 200 lumens per Watt from that style lamp? Maybe the fundamental laws of physics work differently in Dubai.

Pretty much. That's the kind of approach I'm interested in. In PC-land there's things like DASlight and Sunlight which take a different approach. As does D-Pro.

For indoor spaces there is a lot of talk around having lots of air changes as being one of the mitigations against transmission. We all know that lots of air changes does not make an environment suitable for haze.

I guess the difference I'm looking at is the UI. There are systems, like Chamsys, where you could take the UI on the PC's screen and make a physical console which looked the same, and then are systems which use a more 'PC-centric' operating mode where it would be difficult to mimic it on a physical surface. In both cases the destination is the same but the journey will be different.

Is anyone using a control system specifically designed, from the ground up, for lighting control on a PC? By that I mean one which originated on a PC and not one that was designed for a console and has been ported to a PC. So that means not Chamsys, not Avolite, not MA.

I would avoid domestic PVC cable inside a lantern. It will go brittle within hours of being exposed to heat. At least use a proper high temperature lantern cable. PM me if you can't find it in short lengths.

PAR36s as used in blinders would have been 120V 650W parts, type DWE, run as a series pair. Still available. I don't ever remember seeing a 240V version.

Important first questions for anything ground supported...what's the 'ground' made of and will it take (relatively) point source loads?

That's a good question, and one where googling has not been productive. I'm thinking that a typo and that it should be MHz. 612MHz as the LO, mixing down to an IF of 45Mhz would put the received channel slap bang in the middle of terrestrial TV channels. Plus, 612kHz is too low to be any use in receiving a video signal and has no bearing on the display side. It's an old TV so line scan will be 15,625Hz so 612kHz isn't going to be a harmonic of that with any strength.

I'm just north of Cambridge and can probably lend you a couple of festoon strings if you can collect and drop back. I've also got a load of white rope light which might suit, depending on the feel you are going for. PM me.

Thanks, nice to know my labelling is correct.

Are these what I think they are? ie Patt 123 reflector/lampholder brackets?... ...having a workshop tidy and found them in a box labelled 'Strand Spares'.

I'm a bit constrained as to how much detail I can put out but to answer some of the questions... IP68? - yes, it really does need to be that, though not, as I said, when operating. Power? - yes, battery would be fine as the operating period is relatively short. No more than 1hr will cover it. Moving? - yes, the reception end will be moving, although within a constrained area. Something like a 30 degree beamwidth from the transmitter would keep the receivers covered. Worst case would be to go old-schooll and have someone pointing the antenna at the reception target area.

Can you clarify... 1) You say the channel still outputs power. How are you measuring this? If it's just with a meter across the output, and with no load, you will see a voltage caused by leakage current. If using a meter you must also have a load lamp connected. 2) You say 'raising the level towards full'. Does this mean that the output 'snaps' to the position of the fader and now tracks it correctly from (near) off to full? 3) Which channel is misbehaving?

Looks like I'm going to need to send a universe of DMX wirelessly over a minimum of 2km, ideally I'd like 5km. Unobstructed line of sight is not a problem, transmit power source is not a problem, receive power source will need to be battery. If the receiver is an off-the-shelf product it'll need to be IP68, but only when it's not operating. There's no opportunity for an intermediate repeater. Anyone done anything like this?

Cheap brightly coloured foam pop-shields. Single use. Multi-coloured so you can track them.

Or white vinegar. As an added bonus your workspace will smell like a chippy for days.

I'd hardly call 10 hours 'real time'... Scaling that up to something that would deal with your typical 10,000 seater arena is going to be an interesting challenge.

Have you had a good look at them? Some drapes, even from the turn of the century (!), will have a sewn-in label with their details on. Being relatively recently made they will be flame retardant in some way, the question is what method was used... https://mcdougall.co.uk/flame-retardant-specifications/

Might be worth writing down what you actually do on paper and getting it in front of the CEO before the meeting.

Might be worth a PM as he visited a couple of days ago so is still active.

Not sure I understand that bit. You probably know this but MIDI Thru is not like a DMX Thru in that there are electronics that buffer MIDI In before it gets to MIDI Thru.

Is there a link to that info ?? The article I read in the last couple of days referenced the US and, probably, the views of Dr Fauci. But the official UK advice backs this up... Source: https://www.gov.uk/government/news/dont-rely-on-temperature-screening-products-for-detection-of-coronavirus-covid-19-says-mhra Follow on: https://www.forbes.com/sites/lisettevoytko/2020/08/13/fauci-says-coronavirus-temperature-checks-notoriously-inaccurate/#18a6b43733f0

Interesting views from the experts now about how reliable temperature checks are as a way of detecting someone's health. Especially as it now looks like you are most infectious in the day or so before you notice any symptoms.