alistermorton
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Everything posted by alistermorton
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Cue the "Not the nine o'clock news" sketch.
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An ETC element would probably feel very familiar to you. You can download the software to a PC or Mac and try it out to see if it feels right (although you can't control and lights without some extra hardware). If you're using your GSX regularly, changing the internal battery every 5 years or so is a good idea; they do eventually leak and can cause irreparable damage to the main board.
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Qlab has wall clock triggers - that might be worth looking in to?
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ISTR HDFury devices being recommended to work around HDCP - worth looking into?
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For line dimming on standard theatre dimmers? If so, I suspect whatever you get, you'll be disappointed. They pop off on the way out and pop on on the way in, and don't tend to dim linearly. Or are you're looking for something that takes hard power and a DMX signal?
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I've got a pair of Kindermann projectors, magazines and the controller and cables to use them as a matched pair for presentations. Probably worth very little, though.
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Isn't that the point of HDCP - it works when it is connected to a single display device, such as a monitor, but doesn't allow distribution? So the decimators need to send the right HDCP handshake so the MacBook doesn't think you're pirating. Or have I missed something?
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Absolutely. Always terminate, use decent cable and don't use shonky wireless links. Use someone reputable.
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You can also use a CP82 if you want to use the lamps for photography - I'm sure I've got a few of those at home.
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Have a look at the medical peglegs for inspiration in how to attach something.
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We've been using our minims at 500W for over twenty years without damage. I believe Gerry has been doing similar on his stage.
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Stage Depot, Stage Electrics were first two I saw on Google, both showing stock. There are other stockists.
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Or even a proper nut splitter? -
The Bose speakers among the seating have been replaced. We were there last summer and they had recently been replaced and a new system commissioned. The new speakers are quite directional - our sound guy was surprised at how little off axis sound there was. The big RCF subs were still rumbling on - grilles as rusty as you'd imagine, but still doing the job.
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Making the changes in Manual mode, then pressing Store+Manual? Page 6 of the manual suggests that's the procedure.
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I'm trying to remember what they have at Minack - I think they're an RCF outdoor speaker. They get left out in all (coastal) weathers. Might be worth asking them what they use?
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This popped up on another site while I was reading this thread.
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Part of the problem, I think, is that the public perception of a dimmable lamp is very different to the theatrical one. For theatre, we want a smooth fade from completely off to completely on. For domestic and commercial use the ability to vary between about 20% and full is all that most people need. So the lamps are really for different markets. Hence why LED houselights, for example, are a specialist product.
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Birdies are likely MR16 or GU10 replacement. There are dimmable versions of these but they tend not to be what you'd call theatre dimming quality.
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As Yorkie says, the AC lamps will work fine on DC, but you'll struggle to dim them. Most of them have a SMPSU which allows them to work over a range of voltages. Even PWM the power has no real effect.
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May also be worth asking on controlbooth.com - you get more of a USA centric audience on there.
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Maybe have a microdet go off at the site of the third target?
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To be honest that's how I'd do it, and I'd get our workshop to mock up a nail gun in wood. Whether you can safely put anything in it to emit a puff of "smoke" when it goes off is down to you, of course.
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Yup, we always used T28 in our 23s and 123s. Always got ours from Whitelight.
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It appears from your original post that you're running your LED pars off the dimmer packs. Is that right? I'd normally expect to run those on hard power.
