royzinrotherham Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 help advice needed please I have a moving head where the cable from the lampholder has failed , its white and feels like silicone (,the lamp is a 150 w discharge ) where can I get a mtr of this type of cable , I would imagine its heat resisting .. Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.elsbury Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 You are correct in saying that silicone cable is heat resistant. I would try my local electrical wholesaler? If they don't have it as a single core, you could buy a metre of flex and just remove the outer sheath? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themadhippy Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 conrad electronics stocks a good selection of hight temperature cablehttp://www.conrad.com/ce/en/overview/6140430/High-Temperature-Heating-Element-Wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsabre Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 If it's a discharge lamp, beware that the cable between the lampholder and the lamp gear is rated for a very high voltage because of the way the lamp ignitor works - normally 5KV impulse. The cable is also double insulated. Do not strip flex as suggested, this would be unsuitable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.elsbury Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Ah, that's interesting! My apologies. What the man above said. :) David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktaylor Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 I must say I was amazed at the voltages floating around in moving lights if the lamps are of the discharge variety. In fact 5kv is at the lower end on strike and if a hot restrike it is in the 20kv range! Very good handout at recent Whitelight training course!I am working on repairing my remaining mac and can agree the wire from the starter is double insulated. What it is like at the holder end I have no ideaOne of the things I learnt was to beware of suggestions on chatrooms. Blueroom has the safety rider on the power board, maybe there should be one here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyro_gearloose Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 You might need to replace the lamp holder as well even if there's nothing wrong with it, especially if its for a single-ended lamp. I don't think I've ever seen a re-wirable lamp base for a discharge lamp. The cable is usually crimped in place, and sometimes its then potted in high temperature silicone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jivemaster Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Look for the manufacturer's spare part and replace the whole lampholder complete with crimped cables. My experience has been that a slightly burned lampholder will kill the next lamp in 1 - 10% of it's normal life span and esp with discharge lamps that cost a fortune the replacement holder is a cheap fix. Yes there are VERY HIGH voltages in the strike circuit 25KV being quite normal, also some lanterns generate a RF pulse to strike the lamp. Either can be exceptionally dangerous so read the manufacturer's book for their warnings. certainly leave a lantern unplugged for a LONG period before opening it - I'd suggest 12+ hours, unless the maker says more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsabre Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 certainly leave a lantern unplugged for a LONG period before opening it - I'd suggest 12+ hours, unless the maker says more. Um, I think that's being rather over-cautious. The high voltages are only present when the unit is powered. Any times specified by the manufacturer are for cooling after operation.The only exception to this is xenon strobe fixtures which can store high voltages for a prolonged time after disconnection. (Been there, got the zap marks on the fingers) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pscandrett Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Um, I think that's being rather over-cautious. The high voltages are only present when the unit is powered. In many movers and discharge circuits the ignitor is essentially a capacitor, so your statement isn't quite right - but then again leaving it for 12 hours is probably is a bit overcautious too :-) As long as you're aware of where the high voltages may be, and leave it for 'a bit' (personally I'd leave it for 15-30 mins if I was stripping a mover) then you should be OK. </standard disclaimer to people about not doing something electrical if you don't know what you're doing> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jivemaster Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 If the kit comes from a prime maker then the HV should be well protected, if it is a no name brand from the East then be very careful, it may be less "poke friendly"! If you can't wait 12ish hours then you are beginning to take added risks with your body (HV shocks are not nice). Also please ensure that the whole thing is cold and don't tweak the lamp lest it shatters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royzinrotherham Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 Thanks for the advice guys ive got it sorted now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Thanks for the advice guys ive got it sorted nowFor anyone finding this topic in future, how did you get sorted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.