revbobuk Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Don't quite know how to describe the piece of hardware I'm looking for. I need to mount just a pair of small fresnels FOH for a small stage, and I would think I've seen a bar that looks rather like a towel rail - curved back at both ends. If I'm making sense, or if anyone has a better suggestion, please educate me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktaylor Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Sounds like a drop under bracket to allow you to hang a short bar lower than th Sounds like a drop under bracket to allow you to hang a short bar lower than the fixed rig. Like a double ended long hook clamp? So two with a short bar does the trick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.elsbury Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 http://www.doughty-engineering.co.uk/shop/images/thumbs/t_t20500.jpg ? What are you mounting this bar to? An existing bar? A wooden beam? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brainwave-generator Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Yeah you have the choice of David's offering, or beefing it up a bit with one of these: http://www.doughty-engineering.co.uk/shop/images/products/t57340.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomHoward Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Do you mean for mounting the 48mm bar to the wall? If so you could usually use Doughty stand-off wall brackets: http://www.doughty-engineering.co.uk/shop/images/products/t33310.jpg Or if you wanted it to be a bit neater, you could have a 48mm piece of bar rolled into the curved sections and mount it with a couple of key clamp saddles: http://www.fisheralvin.com/product-images/A12_image_1.jpg This wouldn't be rated though - you'd be best drilling through the clamps and replacing the grub screws with full bolts, and then you'd have to assess it to make sure it was strong enough for your load. I'm not sure if I've pictured what you're trying to do correctly, or if the other suggestions are closer to the mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brainwave-generator Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Or if you wanted it to be a bit neater, you could have a 48mm piece of bar rolled into the curved sections and mount it with a couple of key clamp saddles: http://www.fisheralvin.com/product-images/A12_image_1.jpg This wouldn't be rated though - you'd be best drilling through the clamps and replacing the grub screws with full bolts, and then you'd have to assess it to make sure it was strong enough for your load. The problem with those is not so much the 'rating' thing, but that they're designed to be pushed on not pulled on. They're really for use in things like handrails, either as bases for vertical supports, or to fix a horizontal rail to a wall. But in any case, the load is pushed onto the fixture, not pulled away from it. I agree the full bolt going right through and out the other side would help somewhat, but I think the Doughty option is a better one. You could of course just use a doughty half coupler and bolt it straight to the ceiling, maybe through a 12mm ply block just to get the clearance to get the lantern's hooks on it. http://www.doughty-engineering.co.uk/shop/images/products/t57120.jpg Invert that and bolt it straight in with a long bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seano Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 You could of course just use a doughty half coupler and bolt it straight to the ceiling, maybe through a 12mm ply block just to get the clearance to get the lantern's hooks on it. <photo snipped> Invert that and bolt it straight in with a long bolt. A tad untidy and expensive for a permanent installation, imo, but the main problem with that is that the clamp is designed to hold the head of a bolt/screw captive so it would only be feasible where a long bolt emerges somewhere that a nut can be tightened from the other side. All of the replies thus far have suggested ways to mount a bar to hang the lantern(s) on with a hook clamp. If the OP is only interested in installing these two fresnels in a fixed position there may actually be no need for a bar at all. It might be a better option to mount each lantern yoke directly on a bracket like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the kid Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Read this a few times now. Is is not a floor mount? I I am sure I have seen something that is maybe 1inch pipe bent round, with either a spigot, bolt, or a doughty floor stand style mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brainwave-generator Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 A tad untidy and expensive for a permanent installation, imo, but the main problem with that is that the clamp is designed to hold the head of a bolt/screw captive so it would only be feasible where a long bolt emerges somewhere that a nut can be tightened from the other side. Aye that's what I had in mind. Of course if you don't have access to the space then yes that plan sucks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revbobuk Posted April 3, 2012 Author Share Posted April 3, 2012 Ah. No - I hadn't explained myself clearly enough. What I thought I had seen was a length of the 48mm pipe, mounted vertically, with both the ends of the pipe bent round through 90 degrees, and then mounted with something like the keyclamp saddles Tom describes. I have a wall, not a ceiling, to attach to. It's either this or a couple of brackets, one for each fixture, and I thought this looked neater. Don't know if I can link to it, but http://www.stagelighting.co.uk/files/imagecache/large/Kit1.jpg is what I mean. I should say - I found where I had seen it. Stagelighting.co.uk say they don't sell it on its own, and it's their own custom design. Which is fair enough, and I'm getting a quote from them for what I want. But does it exist anywhere else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brainwave-generator Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 If it's on it's side, then I reckon Keyclamp scaffolding might well be option for you. 2x wall mounting sockets, 2 short sections, 1 long section, 2 elbows (90º couplers) each side, wouldn't cost you much at all. Most likely less than you'd get charged for something made custom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ynot Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Actually, I'd say that the stand-off brackets that Tom posted in #5 above would suita better than Kee Clamps. http://www.doughty-engineering.co.uk/shop/images/products/t33310.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Pearce Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Most local engineering firms could make a curved bar like that fairly easily. They tend to be more economic than you might think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktaylor Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Most local engineering firms could make a curved bar like that fairly easily. They tend to be more economic than you might think.And hopefully give them a safety loading rating? Thats the beauty of Doughty or any other stage manufacturer. Then can rate their equipment as it presumabaly has had an example tested to destruction. Your average local fabricator is hardly going to make a one off and destry one to test! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seano Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Most local engineering firms could make a curved bar like that fairly easily. They tend to be more economic than you might think. ^^ This.There are loads of little engineering firms who could make this up in steel (and loads more firms dotted about who could then powder coat it for you for a really tidy finish). I don't really like the curved bar for a vertical boom personally - it stands out further from the wall than necessary (unless the sight-lines demand it). The one pictured with 4 Pars on it doesn't look particularly tidy to me. I think my preference would be to combine a short length of tube with a couple of these railing support brackets and a couple of these boom arms. I think that bracket gives sufficient clearance behind the bar for the boom arm with about 1/2" to spare, but you'd be wise to double check. Then can rate their equipment as it presumabaly has had an example tested to destruction. Its more likely that it's been "proved by calculation" than destruction tested I would think.The load is relatively trivial, unless its made of cream cheese or the quality of the weld is *appalling* the fixings holding it on the wall will probably be the weakest link in any case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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