revbobuk

I've used them (in the white finish) for Church installs, and I think they do that job really well. I like the choice of tweeter angles, and the good mounting options. Very first one I ordered arrived with a cracked horn - quite a lot of weight in the magnet assembly. And they look nice!

Pete - what would you consider to be good in terms of brightness level? In (say) a well-lit entrance area with windows but no direct sunlight falling on the screen? I notice that a fairly moderately priced LG digital signage display (£640 for 49" diagonal) is rated at 350 CD/m2 - how would that compare with domestic devices?

We use Xibo on an Android N95 box, through an ordinary domestic TV on a timer. The downside is that when power comes on, the TV stays on standby. If you need fully automatic, you will have to go for a proper pro display. We use the hosted Xibo service, as that ensures the software version is up to date. Works well for us.

That's what I did - I used a Dremel to take away as much as I could of the superfluous bits of an auto blade fuse, and it seems to have worked just fine. If I can get a replacement proper fuse some time I will, but as a temporary fix this is good. Thanks!

You have a very good point. I can try that easily enough.

Guys - need to replace a surface mount fuse (marked SF20A) which I presume to be 20 amps. 6mm x 2mm x 2mm. I only need one (to repair a battery pack) and would love a suggestion as to the best place to source small quantities? I'm thinking probably RS?

There's a really good guide to using the ATEM software effectively which I've recommended to many folk.

Just rung them - they've not got as large a display as they used to, but they do have some in to listen to, so I'll give them a visit. Thanks for reminding me!

This is all fascinating! Glad I started this. As a supplementary question - apart from John Lewis, where else has a selection of headphones that can be auditioned?

Hi Bob, I've used them quite a bit for cables and parts (although via their eBay "shop"), so I hope when you get your order they are top-notch. Let us know! Cheers, Kevin ETA: For completeness in earlier posts I should have said "Yongsheng" for the brand of the EtherCon on the 15m cable. Yongsheng being the Chinese branch of Neutrik. Google for the backstory! Yup, received, installed and tested. The <1 ohm is measured from a real cable in my hand, so I will be using them again.

I looked at both of my cables again. Neither are making a deliberate electrical connection to the 'XLR' shell (there is no specific connection point). Both use a shielded RJ45 within the shell, and both cables have continuity through the shielding of the RJ45. That my newer one showed shell continuity is just luck that the RJ45 shield makes a better connection to the Yongshen shell than my older "pro" cable does in its Neutrik shell. So in my mind this is resolved for the Behringer requirement - shielded cable, shielded RJ45 plugs. Both of the Thomann cables linked above satisfy this requirement. If the actual EtherCon shell has shield continuity is luck on the snuggness of the RJ45 in the shell or a newer cable happening to have less oxidation on those surfaces. That the Neutrik connector has no connection point to the shell for any braid/shield says to me that what I see on these two cables is as good as it gets. Bob is that any help? Kevin Kevin - I suspect that what you say is the reality. But this idea that there must be continuity between the ethercon shells seems widely to be accepted as 'official' for the X32 series. I can't find any Behringer documentation that says more than 'shielded Cat-5e, ethercon terminated' Just for information, the cables I have just ordered from Amazon (Designacable) use Van Damme Tourcat and Neutrik Ethercon shells, and they are very reasonably priced. There is, as you observe, no designed in connection between the shell and the shield, but it measures continuity well under an ohm end-end

I went for a Canon Camcorder - the Vixia range are good / cheap and have clean HDMI output, plus it serves as a decent camcorder for personal use. Add an HDMI to USB3 capture card and you can use it as a good webcam. I got the HF-R806. Drawbacks for livestreaming are that you have to be able to reach it to turn it on, so we're getting a PTZOptics to mount permanently in the Church, plus a bullet cam for a second shot. But if I had a place to put a tripod, I would stick with the Canon.

Who knows for sure. There are plenty of reports of connections dropping out, and plenty of people who have been working perfectly happily without it. I just try to avoid adding in risk points if I can avoid it. I suspect it is a bit like the whole 'proper' DMX cable issue - it isn't a problem until it's a problem, and then it fails when you can't stop to fix it.

Folks - I need to move an X32 a little further away from the installed Ethercon wallplate, and that means I need a patch cable which meets the spec - Cat5e, shielded, with continuity from shell to shell. Any good sources? Preferably at a reasonable price? Does the CPC 5m cable from Van Damme (AV23497) have continuity shell-shell?

That's interesting - I used these as monitor headphones in a previous setting because they are a) built like a tank and b) very good isolation. But I struggled with them for long periods of use because I felt they gripped rather tightly. Did like the sound, though. Quite partial to Beyer - I've been using a pair of DT231 for ages, and they are so easy to listen to. Earpads are shot, and I can't find pukka replacements.

Just a personal query. I'm looking to buy a set of closed-back headphones for personal listening. Don't need wireless, Bluetooth, noise cancelling or anything fancy. Don't want to pay more than £200 at the most! What would you choose if it was you?

The output HDMI will be whatever you have set the video standard of the switcher to. Some broadcast monitors with HDMI inputs will not like non-broadcast frequency/resolutions, some computer monitors are also similarly picky about what they will accept. Cheers, Peter You would think that was the case. But the monitor I was using would happily display the signal straight from the camera's hdmi out, but wouldn't display the ATEM output, even when that was set to just show the camera input. Allegedly the hdmi output can be set to a different rate to the input, but I'm not sure that's working properly. You can choose 'auto' - which sets the output rate to match input 1 - or a specific rate. My monitor will happily handle Full HD at 60Hz, but setting the rate to 60Hz still resulted in a blank screen when the Atem was plugged into it. It's made more confusing by the fact that the control software is common to all the Blackmagic range, with options greyed out that don't work with the Mini Pro, rather than being specific to a particular model.

It only has one hdmi output, in addition to a USB out which can feed video to a computer and a network feed for streaming. The single hdmi can be program out or multiview, and that's the hdmi that has the issues. Mostly to do with frame rates I think, but I'm not really sure.

Just to be utterly pedantic, -10dBV to +4dBu is 11.8dB difference More seriously, the reported fussy-ness about connected monitor is a little concerning... could you expand a bit more or do you know of any particular (say) 27" monitors that do work? We are probably buying a Pro plus monitor fairly soon! My Hanns-G HS271HPB works perfectly. I've ordered another Hanns-G in the hopes it will also work, and I'll report back later this week with the results.

That will do nicely. Cheaper than the Radial as well! I suspect you are correct, but with all the connections to PCs, HDMI and the rest, I just don't want to have to troubleshoot ground loops as well, and the simple cable solution also doesn't handle the 14dB level shift, and the Cleanbox does. It may be overkill, but with the whole setup costing ~3k anyway, £60 for a DI box is worth it just to deal with a couple of potential problems. I'm having enough headaches anyway - the ATEM Mini Pro is really fussy about which monitors it will work with - works fine with a Hanns-G, won't work with a very similar Acer. No coincidence it is made by a company called Blackmagic!

Folks - I need to interface an ATEM Mini Pro to an X32. Which means converting +4dB nominal to -10dB, balanced to unbalanced, and TRS (stereo) 1/4" jack to 3.5mm minijack. What's the least complex setup to do that? Anyone recommend a particular box? (Edited to add:) I'm thinking the Radial SB-5 used backwards, with the 3.5mm jack being the output instead of the input. It's a passive device, so ought to be fine being used that way?

Buck and Hickman carry a wide range.

I'm using my X18 - and it is brilliant. It can be tucked away out of sight, and it has much more power than I need. I've replaced the iMultiMix8 that I was using, and it is so much better. Gates on each channel to keep noise down, comprehensive eq, even built-in Hi-Z for plugging a guitar straight in. And currently just £350 from Thomann.

The Ansmann Energy Check comes from a company with a good record in the field, and it does at least have a separate category for NiMH. Indicates charge state in 10% steps, but I have no idea how reliable that figure might be.

Thanks guys - I think the Shure SE215 looks perfect. Much appreciated.