Don Allen

Possible one of these CDROM Audio Cable ?

Nor sure if it is what you are looking for but the latest version of Zer88 ZerOS 7.12 News " The update adds integration with Strand Vision.Net, Color Kinetics KiNet, and Philips Hue, making it easier for small to mid-sized theatres, houses of worship and schools to connect to other lighting systems in the facility with minimal infrastructure impact."

Your venue seems small enough for a hearing loop, but what options do your audience have available such as hearing aids with T option ? Perhaps a survey ?

Does anyone know the pinouts for the Rush SM 650 5 pin din remote please ?

It changes the Speed Mode between 5 minutes and 10 minutes. Press and hold the record button. Tap the Flash Button 5 or Flash Button 10 three times while holding down the Record button. The 5 MIN or 10 MIN should light up indicating the Speed slider is set to run in the 5 or 10 minute mode. Showmaster 48 manual see pages 15, 16.

I was trying to find pictures of a floor cover lifter like this T-Handle Light Duty Lifting Key when I can across Howard Green Floor Access that have a video showing one person lifting a floor access cover . You can make a plate or buy one ready made, with a T slot in it to put in each corner of the stage. When a corner is lifted, a piece of wood is slid under that corner to keep it up while you do the next corner. Or you could have threaded inserts in the floor and use one of these Drill Press Clamp with the arm modified to lift on the support frame edging ?

For a low ceiling consider using PAR16 or "birdies". Compact, lightweight, wide range of beam angles, low power consumption, available in stubby or short nose, barn doors available. They could be mounted in a small trough, like foot lights but on the roof. Do a sideways plan of your stage, draw in the McCandless method 45 degee angle from the actor to typical tall ceiling you get in a hall, then instead of mounting a profile on the roof, put a birdy along the light beam, where it gets to the proscenium arch. The birdy will do the same job, but because it is closer, does not have to be a high wattage. ??? I have lit several venues where roof rigging was not available, so I use a boom on each side for front light. Provides some selectivity. Instead of a counterweighted baseplate, you may be able to secure the side truss to the wall ?

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news ? But I had a callout to a public secondary college, the glass "bulb" section of a Patt60 lamp had fallen from the lighting grid, narrowly missing a student, it broke on the carpet, leaving glass fragment in the carpet. There was no colour frame on the Patt60 to stop the glass "bulb" falling out. It left the metal screw base of the lamp still in the lamp base and two pieces of lamp filament sticking up with 240V potential across them. Out of reach to noram users, but these students had easy access to scaffold for focussing. Our risk assessment was that it could occur again, so I went to our local hardware store, got some large open black coated mesh and made mesh guards for the Patt 60 and Patt 137. Duty of care satisfied. (I do not like H&S fanatics either but this was common sense.)

I have had problems with USB to serial interfaces back in the days of Picaxe microcontrollers, I think it was do do with handshaking so find out if there is a preferred brand interface.

An example from a Chinese LED PAR is the menu: 1. A001 DMX Channel Address (001-512) | 10CH mode 2. d001 DMX Channel Address (001-512) | 6CH mode These are 6in1 LED PAR's so the 6CH mode is RGBWAU/V. The 10CH mode adds Dimmer, Strobe, Macro Functions. The easiest way to find out what DMX channels control in an unknown LED PAR is to use a 12 channel desk with the LED PAR set to DMX 001. Then bring up all faders so you get an output. Then take down one fader alternately to find the dimmer, then have just that channel up, then bring the other faders up one at time to identify colours, then have the dimmer and one colour up so you can find the strobe channel. The other channel left may be a macro channel. One variation is that the Dimmer channel is 0-256 and the strobe portion is 257 - 512. This is more common with older LED PAR's. HY-P186S-RDM v1.1.pdf

When you consider the cost of a PAR64, the fact that it evolved as a rock and roll light for highly saturated colours and the cost of any "equivilant" fixture, I do not consider that there is an LED replacement for the PAR64 at a reasonable price. There is a lot of "LED PAR CANS" that have a reasonable output but you need to buy IP65 rated ones to avoid fan noise and they have lots of lens so have different beam characteristics. And the LED PAR CANS do not heat up an outdoor stage floor to keep the moisture off it !

I had a look and there are 16 channel scanner desks on you auction site that would be easier than making something. I have used these for architectural lighting but they don't output DMX at power on, so they may be more appropriate for your show ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/b/Lighting-Desk/30889/bn_7023420122

I have rigged two BeeEye clones on the underside of a 3m push up tripod stand, with three small LED PARS overrigged on top of the Tbar. The 72W 6in1 LED PAR's weighed 1.5kG each. The BeeEye colnes weighed 8Kg each. The zoom wash movers were focused on to the band and did not move for the show. No ballyhoos. Did the risk assessment and it worked for many shows. Put a shotbag on each leg for added safety. If you use a slow motor speed the stand will not move. Every situation is unique and needs a risk analysis. The other option is to use a piece of truss on a heavy base plate. You can put a sock on the truss to hide it, or put a truss warmer inside the truss to show it off.

It is not recommended to passively split DMX512 as it can cause signal reflections which leads to data corruption. In reality most LED and moving had equipment, scanners etc. may have passive splitters. The DMX in and out sockets may be on a pcb with mm of pcb track between them or the input cable may go in via a few cm of cable from the input XLR connector, when it is joined onto the output cable, which goes to the output XLR cpnnector via a few cm of cable.

The room ventilation is an important factor with smoke, haze and low lying fog machines. If you want a plume of smoke behind your subject, use a normal smoke machine from the side so the smoke starts to rise when it gets behind them. Providing you have your ventilation correct, you wont get smoke inside your photographic equipment. Experiment with side and back lighting or flash for an atmospheric effect, as lighting from the front may be too flat. Update your profile so people can see if they can help you.

You can see the DMX output of the FLXS desk by pressing the Z/Shift key, then System information on the internal touch screen, then the top right soft key DMX Outputs

You can cut neon flex How to cut Neon Flex , you need to find the internal wire and solder at each corner.

In LF Options > System (DMX) > Universe 1 > drop down list select Enttec Open USB-DMX

I have a Dune DL FOG-1502 https://www.ccslightsound.com.au/dune-1500w-smoke-machine-dmx512-timer-remote that is not responding to DMX channel 1 fog level, but when the DMX is present, you cannot use remote control unit, so the DMX chip appears to be OK. I cannot find a manual, the DIP switch has 10 switches, the tenth one has a Star. I have tried it in both positions, but it does not appear to be DMX enable. Any suggestions ?

The page 12 of the manual you show is for an EDX1212. The picture you show is the same as the picture on the front cover of the manual I attached to my post, it has the model number EDX1212A. Different instructions for different models. In the EDX1212A manual on page 11 it states The DC10V output has been changed DC 0V (ON) and 10V (OFF) when the channel output have been setting on "SWITCH" by software. There is an error in the manual on page 20, it says to select F6 but the picture shows F7:CH DIM/SWIT so you need to select F7 NOT F6. This matches the Mode menu of page 12 which shows F7 Dimming/switching setting. Hope that solves your problem.

On page 19 of the manual it tells you to press Function key and press up ^ which is also 1 key or press down v which is also 2 key until you see F6. Then press MEM key , then press Right arrow > which is 5 key or Left arrow < which is also 6 key to set the channel you want to change the Mode of, then press Up ^ 1 key or Down v 2 key to select switching or dimming. It is a software or menu function, not a hardware switch function. 4658_liteputer_edx912_manual.pdf

The main area or reverse polarity or more correctly reverse phase was early Martin disco lighting and movers. I still have a phase reversal lead in my tool kit but have not needed it for a long time. If you have a look at the back of small Showtec lighting desks they have a DMX polarity reversal switch which causes problems when people change it when trying to troubleshoot a situation.

The components are through hole. I replaced all of the electrolytic capacitors and the open circuit board is finally quiet to touch, but when I put the circuit board back into it's case, it was unstable, so that is tomorrows problem to fix. What is curious is that all of the capacitors tested close to nominal value using my Peak LCR tester, but that is testing at a low voltage, not the 24V working voltage of the BP1.

I have a Production Intercom BP1 beltpack that is microphonic. If you touch it or wiggle the headset connector it makes scratching and other loud noises. I have tried different headsets, same result. I have replaced the single and dual opamps, checked for dry solder joints, replaced XLR rivets with m3 screws so I can use star washers for good case earthing, cannot find cause ? Any suggestions ? I thought the microphonics might be semiconductor shot noise ? I have the BP1 schematic from a previous post, but it is not accurate for the pcb No.90005 Rev3 I have, TR1 is J174 P channel mosfet, TR2-4 are @N3417.

The diode test voltage varies with budget multimeters, so they may not light all led's, which can give a misleading result. The blue led's have a higher voltage drop, around 3v than red led's around 2v. I use a second multimeter to measure the diode test voltage of a multimeter. I was searching for an smd part number for a Martin Rush MHD led driver that had a small tab in between two legs on one side and three legs on the other side, marked 6655 C398, went looking for a FET and discovered that it was a LED Driver which adds another possibility when looking for parts. Mouser search