Don Allen

I have come across Arduino projects that look at the IR codes used with the RGB floods so you can put them into an Arduino that takes in DMX and sends out the IR controls. Now if only I can find it, I will post the link !

A COB LED may work, RGBW, wide beam angle suits short throw, lightweight compared to fanless LED PARs, I have used these as sidelights for dance Event Lighting 2 x 100W RGBW COB

Seems like someone at installation time has not configured the LSC APS "The APS is also ideal for permanent installations such as schools, churches, public halls and other venues where Energy Management is a key goal. By using APS modules to power all the lighting and video system, all the LED fixtures, video screens and moving lights will automatically be powered off a few minutes after the lighting console is turned off. When the console is next turned on, the lighting and video equipment will be sequentially powered up over a few seconds, without any user intervention, a truly Green solution." "the APS is capable of the following: Automatic power On/Off of circuits when DMX is detected Combined MCB and RCD (RCBO) breakers – circuit breaker with earth leakage protection (RCD/GFI) for each circuit RCBO breaker also provides Neutral Disconnect function. Staggered power up of outputs to prevent overloading of the supply feed breakers (cascading of multiple units is also possible) Control via DMX512 – presence detected turns outputs on and loss of DMX turns outputs off after a preset time delay eg. 19 minutes Control via GPI contact closure Control via RDM Cascading startup for individual units via XLR5 cabling and/or based on unit number Manual override via front panel 10A, 13A, 16A & 20A variants Monitoring of input voltages (3-phase), frequency and currents; Programmable overvoltage and undervoltage trips to protect loads Voltage and current reporting via RDM Three phase operation Single phase operation possible but input current must be limited to 63A in total;"

That link works. It is a pity that they use brown and blue for extra low voltage wiring, I rewire them with red and black wires.

I cannot access the links.

You can change the Rama from a 1200W to a 1000W lamp to reduce the current drawn, but you need to change the lampbase height to suit the different filament Rama manual .

Thank you for the info erik.

I have been asked to repair a Botex TP-12-1 that has been on long term hire, the power supply fault wont be a problem, but it would be handy to have a manual to test it once repaired thanks. Have not been able to find anything on it. It has 2 rows of 12 capacitive touch switches, like a masterpiece. The top row is latch and the bottom row is momentary. There is a rotary power switch and speed know. I have sent a request to UK Thomann. Thanks.

Apologies for being away, the Alesis Multimix 12R has PFL on Aux1 and Post on Aux 2. The Multimix 10 Wirless does not have PFL.

Thanks for the rundown. I am curious about what power supply it has fitted as the MFZ160Q Product Sheet does not state the power consumption. The reason I am curious is because I have seen several cases of 18x18W 6IN1 LED PAR's having 150W power supplies fitted as their version of thermal heat regulation. A 18x18W should have a 350W power supply.

One of the schools I service has an Alesis Multimix 10 Wireless that has PFL on Aux 1. The also have a MultiMix 12R with PFL on Aux 1. thomann show the Multimix 10 Wireless on their web site. Another option ?

Can you use a transmitter with an antenna to give you better range and better signal to noise ratio which may help improve reliability. Is it possible to use receivers with antenna ? The Chauvet D-Fi Hub use an ac adapter so can be run off batteries, but it increases set up time.

This Loctite is the best spray I have used to release rusted parts Loctite LB 8040 Freeze & Release , you need to allow time for it or an equivalent to soak in.

If you compare Lee Diffusion Gels I use Lee 228 Brushed Silk to push the beam outwards for a wider beam angle. You lose 40% of your intensity in the filter.

What are you controlling them with ? If you want a white wash on stage, will your controller just use the W emitter, or will your controller use all of the colour emitters to make a "brighter" white. If White only, then you may be disappointed with the final result, as a 120W rated fixture will only give you 30W! Using the Spectra PAR 15Q8 PRO as an example, W only is 30W, RGB+W is 120W. Note data sheet states 15 x 8W quad-colour LEDs (RGBW) so I am assuming each colour emitter is 2W ! Harder to do a comparison with Spectra Par 12HEX10 PRO as data sheet states 12 x 10W six-colour LEDs (RGBWAUV), so it is not likely to have a 2W W emitter and the power used for the UV emitter will not contribute significantly to a white wash. So on paper the RGBW would appear to be brighter, much simpler to just get a side by side comparison, even use a cheap light meter. But make sure there is no other light source on when doing the comparison. For spoken word I would choose the Spectra PAR 15Q8 PRO as Amber and UV are not needed at dusk. You may not see too much lighting from the LEDs at dusk, they will be more effective when it gets darker.

But having a separate DMX line to each lighting bar can be a good design choice. If a budget LED PAR goes faulty and decides it want to be a master and output DMX onto the DMX lead, it will only affect the devices on that chain or bar.

In Perth WA public schools we come across patch field that have an individual tag on each patch lead in the dimmer room, but the tester has only done a visual which is wrong but most schools do not know anything about testing and tagging. Another shortcut some testers do is a visual only for a dimmer rack instead of a full PAT test. We do a full circuit test using a heady duty extension lead, to do a full circuit and the Kyoritsu tester does an earth zero calibration for the test extension lead.

I have done the Yellow Brick Road by using three profiles focused along the path, starting with one at each end, so they have overlapping beams, shuttered off along the edge of the path. I have also done a path across the front of the stage using long nose PAR56, not as tight a cutoff along the path, but still gave an isolated path so it could be lit with the rest of the stage blacked out and I have done a similar setup with PAR16 long nose with barn doors. \ \ / \ / / (crude sideways plot).

I prefer the FLX-S24 to the ColorSource as it has more faders, four encoder wheels for movers and is an easy 1 fader per light desk once set up, so suits inexperienced users as it is all in front of them. Has Lee Mood Boards which is better than StageCL colour swatches. There are a lot of features they may not use until someone starts to use the desk for busking or setting up cue stacks for shows. Good support on the FLX-S forum with Lee filters being made available by some users. The StageCL is also easy for inexperienced operators, I have set it up in schools for teachers that just want to bring up a fader for a light to work. The 4 scene buttons and 4 chase buttons make it easy to run basic dance shows. Colour selection is basic with Hue and Saturation but you can rerecord the built in colour swatches. There are demo videos available to see how it works.

I use Solder Flux Gell on all old joints to improve heat transfer and to get the solder flowing. I still use leaded solder on older electronic equipment and use a Fume Extractor Fan when soldering. For lead free solder joints I flux, then reheat with leaded solder then use a Vacuum Desoldering Station if doing multiple joints such as an ic or Desoldering Braid if only a few joints. Then I use PCB Cleaner or flux remover , it is easier to use bulk with a Dispensing Bottle and a tooth brush, followed by a Conformal Coating depending on the application. Those are retail prices, I buy wholesale or you may be able to find clones.

What about trying birdies ? They are a compact light source, barndoors are available, you can get narrow beams so no wasted energy. I think you would have better choice of beam angles with 12V ones.

Sometimes the Menu button toggles between A and d with the DMX address remaining unchanged.

Try some LED tape inside a L shaped white conduit, about 25mm size, on the edge of the window sill away from the window to allow maximum dispersion. The L shape keeps the light on the windows and stops spill back into the church. There will be reflection off the glass, but it won't be spoilt by direct light from the LED strip. Use budget LED tape to try it out and just some masking tape to simulate the cuttoff of the LED. You made need two or three thicknesses of the masking tape to get an opaque "barn door".

Wire hanging baskets , if you can get one with a spiral frame it will suit the tape ?

Most of my LED PAR's have A as maximum channel option and d as lower channel option. The menu button is used to change channel mode. So it looks like you have two modes. You may find that one of the channels is frequency.