dmxlights

Yep as Brian said it does there is 2 x9v batteries for main working of the mixer and another 9v battery phantom power which is 18v and not 48v

Hi Sunray, Thank you for your reply and your e-mail. I had forgotten about this post myself I have had the mixer apart as I needed to repair channel 1 which turned out to be a faulty fader. I had a quick look at the power board in the mixer when I had it apart and there only 2 pins of 3 of the power supply connector used. I did find a photo of the original one on the net and it show 16vac out. This also matches what I found in the mixer. I did not have time to work out and draw it out but have a very quick photo of it on my phone (I think). I am also sure from my quick look at the power board that there is 2 voltage regulators one is +15 and the other is -15

Hi all, I am looking for the schematic or service manual for the behringer eurorack mxb1002 or behringer xenyx 1002b which are both seem to be the same mixer which can run on 2 9v batteries and 3rd one for phantom power. I am hoping to adapted it to run on 18v battery pack with an amp for an out door show which will require it to be moved about and there will be 6 radio mic receivers also powered from this battery pack. I have the power for the receivers sorted and now to sort out the mixer. I know there is 2 show a day over 2/3days 4-6 shows and each one is about 2 hours max. If anyone could help with the schematic would be great. The reason for asking is one of the battery connectors are broken

It is doable but it would need some practices. I have done it here in Ireland for a local show with a mover and using 2 faders of my lighting desk. It did take me a while to master it but I could do it now if needed. I have not tried it with a joystick or a mouse. I do know my Chamsys MQ60 has an option to use a mouse to move movers but I have not do it as of yet but I may try it some time to see if I could get the hang of it.

I have one of these desk and no it does not have the switch to swap pins 2&3 around. As others said it looks like a faulty cable or the cable got pinched on something that moves and broke it. It also could be a faulty socket but less lightly to be that

I have also tried and its working or I should say it seem to be fixed

I was a Roland fan as well. I have the V-1HD and it will be up for sale. The only thing I found with Roland was that all cameras had to match as in all had to be 1080i or 1080p or 720p was a bit of a pain. I upgraded this year to a Blackmagic ATEM mini Extreme ISO and love it as I can record all inputs to there own file and the main out as well to a SSD hard disk plugged in to the mixer. The ATEM mini has frame rate and scalers on all inputs which is great. Did a lot of looking and got one from here for €1089 inc vat/tax at the start of the year. https://www.photospecialist.ie/blackmagic-atem-mini-extreme-iso

Yes as it the same for my files as well that I uploaded. I think Bruce may have his hands full with this one to fix

The files from others do not show for some reason. I have uploaded them to my own site this is the newest version I have http://mcgcs.net/comms/bluecombeltpack1_4.zip This has alot of versions of the beltpack http://mcgcs.net/comms/bluecomms.rar

Here is some newer files I have just fund version 1.4 BluecomBeltpack1_4.zip

This is all the files I have for the BlueComms. hope these are of help. I may have more files just need to find them Blueroom Blue Coms.rar

I have looked for some of this type of wire before but give up. I also take it this is out of Shur or trantc body pack. I have used thin stranded wire. I have taking some wire out a Alarm wire and fits fine and also have no problems the door opening or closing. Its something like this that I used https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-power/4c-alarm-black-100m/4-core-alarm-cable-black-100m/dp/CBBR6603?st=alarm wire

I find that the REAN ones are better than the Switchcraft ones. One thing I know that the REAN ones hold on the the lead better that the Switchcarft ones. Also the REAN are easier to redo when you need to do them quickly and I find the Switchcraft take a bit more time and are fiddly to do. On the crackle side of things I think they all will do it when they are well used. I have swapped out most the headsets from Switchcraft to REAN because of crackling or the cable coming out a bit to easy. This is just what I find.

Bummer it looks like the lcd module in the projector has had it then. The vga cable that I found had a fault on vertical or horizontal I can't remember as it was about 4 years ago. I know it was an odd one for sure

How are you get the signal to the projector. I have seen a odd fault with VGA cable and which was causing a odd mist just like what your where saying this was on half of the projected image. The 10 meter vga cable turned out to be faulty this was fixed from a wall plate to the projector and there was a short 2 meter one from laptop/pc to wall plate was fine

I am aware that serial is a minimum of 3 wires. I am thinking the serial is TTL and it was connected to some board that also need power so it got it ground from there. I am thinking of trying a TTL serial to usb on it. I am also hope to get time on Monday to ring them. I did read about some sort a serial board for it somewhere and this is why I think its a board with a TTL Serial to RS232. This board may use a MAX2323 chip or another chip like it. Can you remember can you download all presets to the computer from the Anylight unit

I got a photo of whats in side the one I want to program. There is 2 RJ45s on this unit but they are for DMX and well as the 2 XLRs. There is 2 preset panels connected to this. 2 dimmer packs and about 15 DMX led tape drivers. From reading the manual need some sort of a usb serial that connects to the orange/black connector blocks at the top right to program it

I did not see anything about the webserver been built in. I know the unit I have has RJ45 for DMX along with XLR's. from what I know this unit does not have the serial card. I will try and get a better look at the unit today at some point and see what it has.

Does anyone know how to program a Anyligt interface or what sort of usb cable is needed. I have found the software but did not find much on the lead from the laptop/PC to the unit to program it. I know it say in the manual for the software about usb serial and connect it to 2 wire connector on the unit but not much more

This is one of the links I found to a raspberry pi been used https://projectable.me/I-built-a-wifi-walkie-talkie-for-my-kids-now-you-can-too/ Here is the main one I seen https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14hbYhLjQ8Y https://inside.arcada.fi/kultur-och-media/made-in-arcada-an-open-access-diy-intercom-system/ Edited to add this below This is the one I seen and was looking for https://github.com/matiaspl/intercom

I also looked in to this a few years ago as in using raspberry pi(s) with mumble and someone has done it but I did not do much as for getting time to do it and then the lockdowns in 2020. From what I remember reading there was push to talk and always on (as in mic on all times) this was fully duplex as well. The belt packs where battery powered some how. If I get a chance I will go though my bookmarks to see if I have it in my bookmarks. From reading the delay was very low as in a few mil seconds as it was all local as in internal wifi or wired network

I have found li-ion battery packs that get cold can do what sandall has described. I have by cordless drill in the car this last few weeks one of my batteries was full charged and was showing half full on the inacator on it and the other was half full from the last time I used it was showing low. I took both in and let them warm up to room temp and then charged the low one and the other showed fully charged again. I would let it warm up to room temp and then try and charge it again to see if it will.

I have the some of the v1.4 files here https://mcgcs.net/BluecomBeltpack1_4.zip Hope this is of help

Here is another thing I had to do with windows 10 an odd time a driver will not uninstall. This is how to get windows 10 in to safemode and then try and uninstall the drivers/software. It sounds to me that the drivers/software still running in the backround https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/start-your-pc-in-safe-mode-in-windows-92c27cff-db89-8644-1ce4-b3e5e56fe234

Are you getting any error messages when trying to uninstall. I know with windows 10 some times you have to reboot the pc/laptop before uninstalling software/drivers and also make sure you have the cable unplugged from the pc/laptop thats going to the LS9 before restarting as the software/driver will run when you reboot