dmxlights

I've had a look through their websites and can't seem to see anything that jumps out at me, do you have a link handy? Cheers! I remember having a hook as part of this - https://unicol.com/c...on-sockets-pegs but obviously you can use whatever clamp you want here. https://unicol.com/c...ssories/columns then one of these to fit https://unicol.com/I...iversal-mounts. I have also used normal vesa with all the locking parts done right + some doughty clamps and just some t48 + hook on the end. I was following this thread with intrest and just tried your links all work but the last one. I would be great full if you could post a pic of the mount. Thank you

I have used Raspberry PIs loaded with software from the site below and I have some of them mapped to a network share or a folder on a web storage for updating them. I have had very little problems with it. https://www.binaryemotions.com/digital-signage-systems/raspberry-slideshow/ This will play photos or videos no problem. you can do Donation to him of about 30 euro and then you can put it on as many as you like. He is also very helpful and will reply to emails quit quickly.

Did they have other lights working on the desk. if so take one and use it to test the desk. I assume you mean Eurolight LC-2412 Also did you get the desk 2nd hand. I know some times the socket on the desk can give bother and replacing it would fix some of the problems. As Gerry said are you sure the 5-3 adaptor works. I know I bought one before and it was wired for a old Avolite desk which was odd. The proper wire is 1-1 2-2 3-3 The one I had bough was wired 1-1 4-2 5-3.

Thank you all who have posted with suggestions. I will look in to these.

I am hoping some of you can identify this light its the longs one in this pic. Ringed in red

Hi all, I have a MQ60 but also have some blue hardware that unlocks magic Q pc which I use in my workshop for testing DMX lights that I am repairing. One thing I did do was get a Netbuddy from Smartshow which I can use to get DMX into the pc and use a cheap lighting desk to control magic Q PC. a cheap 12 channel desk from thonnan works a treat for faders. As I have a usb blue hardware from chamsys for DMX out it unlocks the software to get DMX in

I have used cheap chines ones and stopped using them as Sandall said they could go into transmitter mode and you will lose control. I have had this happen. I have units from thoman that are not made any more, which have a switch on them to put them in transmit or receive mode. I have even stopped using them as there is so much using the 2.4G band now. I have even seen slow down in or a lag in the DMX when using wireless units. If you could get some to try and out first before buying would be better as one of the tests I would do with them is use a back to back on the receiver and plug it into the lighting desk to see if it will go into transmit mode if it does I would not use them. I has happened to me with the cheap chines ones where one light when nuts and started spitting out it own DMX and I loss control on till I powered down that light

Here is one that Bigclive has looked at

I have done about 6 hours in one run streaming to facebook and youtube at the same time over 4g and had no problems but the software I used was vmix. I was using vodafone and it a data sims in one of their modems. I did try OBS and I found it work funny on my laptop (something to do with my usb ports can't remember what is was now) and then I tried vmix and had no problems. Try Vmix and see if it has a problem

Try "All Metal Parts" They are in the UK and will do custom panels http://www.allmetalparts.co.uk I did find a site but they are out of stock https://www.desertcart.co.ke/products/23895397-1u-patch-panel-for-iec-c13-or-c14-power-panel-mounts-19-rack-mount

Rob, I know what your saying about the board going dark. I also though it may have been something off board. It was when I seen the feedback track or the tracks that go from the other side of the tube that the heat is from the component(s) on the board. I know I had a dell monitor that had a backlight problem much the same as OP but a different power supply board. The problem I had was a 0R resistor going high in value but it only happened when the monitor was powered up and when I changed it to a piece of wire as in a single strand of fine wire as a test it worked fine and I have put in another 0R resistor and the monitor is still working today. Where the resistor was the board had gone dark even when the resistor was on the opposite side of the board and it was a fairly large area of the board to. I would look at the components around the darkest area of the board first Just to add to the above.. If you look at the silk screen on the board in the area where the board has gone dark the white silk screen looks like it has gone brownish or yellowish from the heat. Also JR309 dose not look to good in the pic and I know its not near the area where the board has gone dark.

I am just after spotting something else, I don't think the transformer is the problem now and the problem is the components where the board has gone dark. the outputs of the high voltage side of the transformer has one leg going to each tube at the top and its the same at the bottom. The other side of the tubes to the components where the board has gone dark. I would put my money that the fault is the components where the board has darkened abit.

Rob, Have looked at the pic of the power supply and I see there is a feedback from the output of the high voltage side of the transformers and it feeds back to the compolents near the top of the board where the gone dark on the other side. Ian, Have you tried power up the monitor without the transformer that you think is faulty. It may work with out it I know the screen may be dark at the top or the bottom but it may prove if its faulty.

Hi Steve, Thank you for your update, and I was glad to be able to help

Steve, Sorry for the delay, This is a cat wall plate mounted on a plastic surface box with a gland for the cat5 which plugs in to my Sony controller. The one with no marks was just put in as I just found it. http://mcgcs.net/ptz/1.jpg Plug that goes into the controller. http://mcgcs.net/ptz/2.jpg Inside the box. I go to the camera on the blue and brown pairs and come back from the cameras on the orange and green pairs. The orange and green pairs are then link to the blue and brown pairs of the next rj45 socket and so on. http://mcgcs.net/ptz/3.jpg I have one of each of these for the cameras. I can extend them by using a rj45 back to back and any length of cat5 cable then http://mcgcs.net/ptz/5.jpg

Stevefez, If you use rs422 you can go from one camera to the next and it will auto address itself ie camera 1 is ID 1 and camera 2 is ID 2 and so on up to 7, Thats on my sony controller for the cameras. which is very handy. I will dig out box I put together for when I run cat5 to the cameras and take some pic of it. Its very handy for when using more than one camera and the cameras are in different parts of the room.

I would use rs422 and get a rs232 to rs422 converter or usb to rs422. RS422 can be run with a long cable I have controlled one that was about 50m or 150 foot way from me over rs422. If you go rs422 route there is no cables to solder up and also you can use cat 5 or cat 6 cable

Hi Brian, Thank you for your reply. I do have some built about a year or more. I will use some of these to do a test and let my friend know. I mite even get him to try and get me a tecpro pack and test it as well with mine on 12v.

Boatman, I have one or 2 boards to still build and I mite have enough resistors to do it with the 9 values that you have in v1.4 I will dig it out later and I will take a look. I know I may be missing some parts like the XLRs sockets and a few other things but as I said I will take a look to see what I have. I have also been asked by a friend who is thinking of building some but he was asking me would these work on 12v as he sometimes uses some of the tecpro packs on a 12v battery

I know this may sound stupid check that the led is in the right way. I know I put one in wrong when I was building them and it was on the power supply. There could even be a faulty transistor or an other components. I would say the LED is the first port to call in checking

With using rechargable batteries in radio mics and body packs, we found some of the battery chargers that charged batteries in pairs did not charge right so we got some chargers that charged one cell on its own and we got better results with them. here is a link to one we use https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Japcell-BC1600-battery-charger-16-slots-for-AA-AAA-NiMH-rechargeable-batteries/162089524461?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Thank you for that I have just downloaded it and done the discount as well and came out at 0.00

I have one and I have used it with a small DMX lighting desk as for extra play backs for my chamsys desk. It worked a treat. I am hopping to get another one in the next week or 2 as the one I have I put it inside the small desk and wired it to take the power from the desk as well. I have no problems with it .

I have been looking in to anyscene as well and it great that someone has has tried one and it does what I wanted as in terms of the DMX from the anyscene stops when it see another DMX signal. I am thinking of the 4 or the 8 scene one just have to get a price for them now.

I also use smartshow devices and never had any problems with them. I have net buddy and it set to convert DMX to artnet and I have it inside a small 8 channel desk that I use to give me 8 more playbacks on a Chamsys desk and it works very well. I also have artnet to a relay box and artnet to DMX as well all from smart show. I have had them in broadcast and unicast modes and had no problem with them with my chansys desk. I also have used and android app with one of dual artnet wifi devices via a wireless router and it was great as I have no real space for a lighting desk for a show we did about 2 weeks ago