dmxlights

You may have to uninstall it via control panel -> add and remove programs open my computer and click on the address bar and type in control panel you may see it show up as you type it if it does click on it. you now should see an option uninstall a program , click it now you should be able to look at the list and then uninstall the drivers

If this was me I would do it using a op amp comparator with a esp32. This way you still have the protection for the ESP and also got your 0 crossing timings. I have modded a few old dimmers in the pass but I would try and keep much of the original circuit as would save a lot of problems as flickering of light when dimmed low, also video cameras will see a light flicker even if we can't. I forgot to add above if the ESP gets any voltage above 3.4v-3.5v max can kill it dead. I have been here and killed a few. so doing it via a op amp comparator will be the best. There is not many components need to do it this way.

I dont think they will work very well. The proper rack mount unit also has a power amp in it to help with signal been split in to different receivers. Also tv signal has a more power full transmit power than a radio mic (which is about 10mw). Using one of them could give you more problems with interference as it wideband and it could mix it with the radio mic signal and give you more of a headache than it worth

you also mite need to disconnect the remote from the smoke machine to be able to get it to work with DMX.

Just did a quick search on Amazon and came up with this https://www.amazon.co.uk/ICQUANZX-Converter-Step-up-Supply-Module/dp/B07VQ89HX4/ref=sr_1_27?crid=2Y7KL7RDRSKO4&keywords=12+to+24v+step+up&qid=1638969553&sprefix=12+to+24v%2Caps%2C166&sr=8-27 here is the start of my search https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=12+to+24v+step+up&ref=nb_sb_noss

Thank you for that link. I have found a few things on there that I may have use for

How about something like these https://www.konstsmide.se/sca/outdoor-lights/light-sets/party-light-sets/lightset-40cl-oval-bulbs-led-2387-500?light=Multicolour&color=Multi&length=975 I know these are 6v but it but it could be something to look at as the bulb are bigger and may look better. I know of a set of lights from Konstsmide that are something like the above link but are 24v that my friend powers from a 18v or 20v cordless drill batteries I think he has 4 batteries in total and he is using 2 at a time and are wired in parallel ie all batteries are 5Ah and I think he is getting 4/5 out of them and they are on for about 8 hours a day. I think these are the one my friend has there is 20 in the set and he has 2/3 sets https://www.konstsmide.se/sca/outdoor-lights/light-sets/party-light-sets/lightset-10-multicl-bulbs-ledwebproduct?light=Multicolour&color=Black&length=450 I will try and find out more tomorrow

I have 2 of EVE100 and I like them and yes they are bright for the what they are and I have used them along side a 650w tungsten profile and I could not see much of a differences between them. I would get them more of them when the tungsten bulbs go.

I have been looking in to something like this but on a smaller scale and with projectors. I think Matrox may have your answer https://www.matrox.com/en/video/products/graphics-cards/m-series/m9188-lp-pcie-x16

I would like to thank everyone who posted and help for the mosfet BSH108,215 came today. I have replaced the faulty one and all is working fine now. Nice to have that bar back working to it full and I have some spares for them if I have any problems again. Thank you all again who posted

It also looks like Matrox had something to do with it. https://www.avinteractive.com/news/projection/matrox-quadhead2go-leaves-lasting-impression-projected-video-art-exhibition-01-06-2021/

Here is a bit I found by googling https://www.vangoghgenova.it/sensory-4.html

I would like to thank every one who has post help. I know the led can be tested the the diode test on multi meters and I know the multi meter I use will work on most leds. Also I have check the other leds and it is a mosfet/transistor. I have also order some BSH108,215 that DrV has posted above. I will post the results when I have got them and fitted to let you know the results.

oops. That was meant to be 5v not Ground going to the led So you've drawn your LED back to front too. Anode to +5 and cathode to the drain of the MOSFET. If it really is run from only 5V and there is a 30 ohm resistor in series then you can't possibly have more than 170mA flowing through it, even with zero Vf. You need a relatively low Vgsth so something like a BSH108,215 or a DMN6140L-13 are only 15p each from CPC (provided you've got something else to order at the same time) and are complete overkill! I've only picked those as they were at the top of a parametric search and in stock - there are dozens of others to choose from. Thats a big oops. I did blind myself when pining things out I managed to blind myself when I went to check current draw of the led which could explain my mistakes. Thank you also for the part number I will look them up

Thats what I was thinking about the transistor. I have a some mosfet from power amps which could be an over kill.

Hi Rob, I have been looking at some scrap boards I have even they are not of lights to find a donor none yet. I do know that mosfet only controls the blue of that one led as it is a pixel bar. I am very tempted to put BC547. Also the main power supply is 5v only (had to check this) oops. That was meant to be 5v not Ground going to the led

Hi Bruce, I did get that one. I have asked the seller for a datasheet but he can't provide me one. I would like to find more info on it and see if you can find a replacement from RS or CPC for it I also assume if it is mosfet then this is the pinout

Hi Rob, It is marked Q1. I have removed it from the board. From pinging it out. I think it maybe a transistor or a mosfet but not sure which. here is what I have pined out.. http://mcgcs.net/lb15.jpg. . Here is a pic of the board.. http://mcgcs.net/lb14.jpg Here is a photo of Q1 which I removed http://mcgcs.net/lb16.jpg

I have replaced the Hex Inverters that where faulty and now I have one colour on one led stuck on which I found a transistor or mossfet to be the cause. Its has 3 legs and the marking on it which are A2FV. I have looked for info on it but got very little back on it. it a SOT23-3 package.

Hi Rob, That sounds good that I am on the right track. I am going to check them later with my scope and then order the Hex inverter I can get hem from RS for about 50c each. which sounds like a good place to start. Thank you for your help as well. I will post back here what I find later

2 of the leds are coming on full as in RGBW all together are coming on when I am just bring on one colour (ie Red or any colour for that matter) at 1%. The other one is the blue on one led does not come on till it at full. I know its not the leds as there is 4 of these board in my bars and if I move them around the problem follows the board. </br> I also have been checking thing at component level and I am thinking of replacing the Hex inverter ICs as for some reason I think these may be the fault. I will be checking them more later. I was just thinking if I could get some of the boards.

Hi, I would like to know where can you get parts for the Showtec Light Bar 12 (pixel). I know they are cheap bars I have 8 of them and 2 has faults which I have worked out down to a small board thats gone faulty http://mcgcs.net/lb12.jpg This is the board that gone faulty (the green one) there is 4 in side the bar and when I move the board around the fault moves with it.

I was running the one I modded every 30-40 seconds for 10-15 seconds and had no problems. I also was using vape oil which was just plane with no nicotine or flavors in it. You may need one of the large ones or few cheap ones and rotate the cycle between them. I was using cheap ones and it worked well. I had powered mine from a 12v to 3.6v regulator from a 12v battery also had a artnet (DMX) relay from Smartshow for switching on and off via my lighting desk. I don't have mine here to take photos of it as this was put into storage as its part of a prop for a friends play. I may have some spares here which I could look out over the weekend and take photos of if needed.

take a look at Chris Edison vidoes on you tube. he did mod some parts of e-cigarettes. I have also used his Ideas for an effect of steam coming out of a basin of water( which had no water in it) https://www.youtube....soundman/videos I just remembered that Chirs is also on this forum as Cedd

ops That what I get for reading thing before my Weetabix this morning. Thank you for your reply.