DrV

It'll be the centre pin. The outer almost always makes contact because it's a spring but the pin and the sleeve into which it fits are (usually) solid. Do what sandall suggested and replace it.

Up to you but I wouldn't worry about a few kinks, provided it runs through everything smoothly. If it were supporting something that would be a different matter. And because it's permanently under tension the kinks don't really matter if you've got them straight before you wind it on.

Knew I'd seen this somewhere... https://hallstage.com/wp-content/uploads/How-To-Cable-Winch-Operated-Tracks.pdf The key to making it as easy as possible is to detach the cable that goes through the little hole at the front end of the spiral (near the handle) and leave the rear one in place. Compress any tensioners that there are on the pulleys. Then wind the rear cable on by rotating the handle. Hold the handle in place and wind one or two turns of the free end of the cable (that should be all that's left) onto the front end of the spiral so that you end up with just enough cable to thread through the other little hole and into the other clamp. Get as much tension as you can into the cable before doing up the clamp. Run the tabs open and closed a couple of times and try to get a bit more tension into the cable. Once you've got the cable as tight as you possibly can, check your clamps are tight then release the tensioners.

Could you combine that with a miniature smoke machine on v. low output?

Say which way you want it to rotate to open the tabs and I'll describe it step by step. I'm forever having to rewind ours because other stage users keep managing to get it off. Is it stage left or stage right?

Ah, didn't realise that it would be gigabit. Still, if it were 100Mb, as a diagnostic aid, the odd second-hand hub shouldn't be that hard to get hold of. Anyway, as I said, it was only out of academic interest. Thanks.

Would a dumb ethernet hub help in this case, to act as a sort of tap into the network. Just asking out of academic interest...

Regarding the one which went intermittent to start with, that might well be an internal connector. If you're comfortable doing so, it's worth opening it up and removing and reseating any connectors, preferably with a blast of switch cleaner too. Do them one at a time and be very careful to put them back the right way round and in the right place! The one which has blown a fuse is very likely to have a shorted output stage so is definitely not a DIY fix.

Ha ha. Perfectly adequate excuse!

A clearer pic would help but the spiral bit is fairly unusual. I think it's this one. Cooper Bussman BK/HTB-56I-R No idea what Time's min order charge/carriage etc is. There's also some on eBay, here. Pricey but no shipping. Also Mouser but expensive if you haven't got anything else to order. Edit - the first one I linked is actually a 921, not 561 but the others are correct and I think it might be the same central part.

That's great news! I know I'm always bangin' on about this but don't delay replacing that dreaded NiMh. The damage they cause is really serious on a PCB like this with quite fine tracks. And just because it's showing a reasonable voltage is not a cause for complacency! Dave

Post a picture of one of the others and I'll have a look.

And if you resolve the issue, please would you come back and tell us what it was. I occasionally get in a similar knot with MagicQ PC and can never remember exactly why I got there or how I got out of it! Thanks, Dave

I may have missed it but you don't appear to have checked the cable with a patch lead as I suggested here. Sorry if you already did that Dave

Aw c'mon. The Sirius was ok, so long as you got someone to help you lift it 😄

Exactly this. The heat in the bit is what heats the joint. The iron heats the bit, but more slowly. If the bit is not big enough it won't store enough heat to solder the joint. Look for a bit with as much mass as possible then look for one with a shape that will be accurate enough to get to the joint. In that order.

Wow, that's quite the display - pity it wasn't deliberate!

Yes, as is common with alarm systems.

It actually says "Both the loop start and the loop end must be connected to the appropriate earthing points". As there are apparently no terminals provided for this that must mean 'through the cable glands'. The connection diagrams on pages 110 and 111 etc confirm this. But yes, the shield must not be grounded anywhere else and it's very specific about that.

Thanks. Must have missed that - I only saw the wired version. Edit: the OP did say it's a CF3000. Have now searched the installation manual and it doesn't mention RF, wireless or MHz anywhere. Are you sure you were looking at that model?

That's an intriguing idea. Where do you get that from Matt? The idea that they would try to use RF reliably over such unpredictable wiring as is used for a fire alarm (FP200 etc) seems a bit unlikely but I'm open to being educated!

I've just realised you said you put the resistor in the screen connection, not in the loop connections. If you were going to add resistors to limit the slew rate they would need to be in the loop connections. And, as they also supply the power to the sensors they would need to be low ohms values. Probably less than 10R. This, combined with the capacitance in the wiring would probably be sufficient to lower the slew rate enough. The signalling rate seems to be about 1kBaud so fast edges should not be required. But I still think you need to talk to Eaton about it. They are a reputable company and (unsurprisingly) the manual specifically states that they do comply with the EMC regs. They must have encountered this kind of problem before.

Employing the "someone else's problem" strategy, I would suggest that the manufacturer of the alarm system is responsible for this. They do not appear to be complying with the EMC directive which requires electronic equipment not to interfere with other systems. Dave Edit: trying to be more helpful, I think you might be on the right track with the resistor but you would probably need some capacitance as well to for a low pass filter. However, if you modify the system and then the building burns down you might be on shaky ground if the manufacturer hasn't approved such a mod.

Definitely not a good idea to just try it! First thought is that if it doesn't have a rating plate which clearly states the voltage, current and safety standards, you shouldn't touch it with an insulated bargepole. It looks like it is a simple lamp without anything sophisticated like a constant current supply so it is pretty unlikely to be dual voltage.

"HOT" is, paradoxically, often nothing to do with temperature. If the lamp fails to give any light output OR the light detector has failed then the assumption is that you tried to strike a lamp which was too hot to strike. So if there IS light output then you need to replace the light sensor or at least check the connections to it. It's a three legged, transparent semiconductor device on a small PCB somewhere off to one side of the light path.