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    Freelance Electronic Engineer
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    Dave Vallance

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    Kingswood Surrey UK

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  1. Or even just a hint as to the type? More info = more useful help
  2. Do the other functions work? Are the lights on full full or zero?
  3. Sounds to me as though the internal +/- 12 or 15 volt supply is not balanced around 0V. Perhaps the 0V connection from the PSU has come loose? Can you check the internal supplies with a meter?
  4. Have sent you a PM. Dave
  5. Yes, almost certainly. It depends on their condition and what the actual fault is but they're usually repairable - old technology. Edit: by the way, I've just looked at your profile and see you're over the Irish sea. Coincidentally I've just repaired a module for one of your compatriots.
  6. I assume you are also at Halifax Playhouse and we are talking about the same system as your colleague, Ged. The power up display is normal. 888 means you have 3 x 8 channel modules installed (most common config for these units). The error code after that I explained above. I don't think the mux lights come on until the self test has completed although I could check tomorrow. I suppose I could simulate the fault code you're seeing but frankly there's not a lot of point as it'll need to be fixed anyway. As I said, I'm happy to look at it and as a last resort I do have some spare processors. From the original post it sounds as though you already have two processors so what was the reason for the initial swap out?
  7. Apart from temperature control I think the other controls are open loop. In other words, the microcontroller commands an action (switch on fluid, switch on air) and simply expects it to happen with no checking of the results.
  8. Well, it took me a few minutes of mental gymnastics, but yes, I see it. Tried to imagine describing a circle on the tabs with a follow spot, which works but then tried imagining describing it on the ceiling and I can see - the wires would get twisted up! Thanks for that Dave
  9. Thanks for replying but that's not the problem. The fixtures are reasonably fast and I did try it really slowly, and with a very small FX size to make sure.
  10. Is it just me? Trying to use a circle FX on some Selecon SL180s and it is moving in a figure of 8. Am I doing something dumb? Version
  11. That's great - thanks all. I went for the second eBay ones in the end as the picture showed a red spot which matches what I've got. Thanks to KevinE for pointing that out and to kgallen for spotting the eBay ones. And probably more nutritious 😉
  12. Thanks for all the suggestions (and the PM). I've enquired whether there's a good one available to measure but I now have some things to research. Thanks all.
  13. It's certainly not a standard festoon of the type we used to get in car courtesy lights etc. It's wire ended. Will take a photo tomorrow.
  14. I have been asked to repair a couple of Apart Mask 8 speakers. They have the usual wired-in incandescent festoon lamps to protect the tweeters and these have blown. I contacted BiAmp who now own Apart and they responded They were, however, prepared to sell the complete crossover assembly. Does anyone else think that incorporating an incandescent lamp into a product and then not being able to supply a replacement when it blows is somewhat short-sighted from an environmental point of view. Also, does anyone know where I could source two? For guidance, the cab is rated at 300W and, according to the spec, the LF is rated at 200W. Dave
  15. I already explained this in my post. In summary, if you've got a supply to the pump which only ever goes -ve w.r.t. neutral, and the pump diode only conducts when the supply is +ve w.r.t. neutral then there will never be any current flowing in either direction.
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