Nicktaylor Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 I have modified a Red based Selecon Pacific to take a 600W GKV lamp. I bought a job lot of the bases and want to do some laminate projection. All fine except the lamp wont work. All wiring meters through plus with probes on a meter there is 240v at the socket. I have tried another lamp. Totally at a lose as what to try next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jivemaster Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Look at the lamp pins with a magnifier, is there any burning or pitting evident? Put a low voltage (12 ish say) across the holder and probe for the lamp pins with a meter, you should be able to find where the voltage is blocked from the lamp. Are you certain that the lamp is good? What was the reason why a Job Lot price was available on the holders? Did they come from a reputable source?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsabre Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Have you metered for continuity through the lamp (live to neutral on the plug). Sounds like the lamp isn't making contact with the holder. Or both lamps you have tested are faulty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgallen Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Do the Pacifics still have the micro switch interlock on the base? I’ve had issues with those - possibly early models - that didn’t activate the switch reliably. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jivemaster Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Check the lamps and holders! Look at the pin sizes. G9.5 has equal pins GY9.5 has odd pins and will never cross mate properly and connect There is also GX9.5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinntec Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 We've got Strand SLs which also take GKV 600W lamps which we love to bits - but getting the lamp to seat properly needs a lot of force, much more than you feel comfortable with especially at the top of a ladder! So check continuity of the holder and continuity of the lamp and if it isn't lighting then check it is seated (you may have to push one to destruction to find out what a properly seated one looks like). I was at a venue recently changing a lamp in a Pacific which didn't light afterwards despite the lamp looking fine. Then I found out that the bit you take out mates with the main body via a microswitch and somehow I had replaced it (in semi-darkness) so that the switch wasn't closed. I can't remember exactly what was wrong but taking it off and putting it back on fixed it probably more by luck than judgement. People with Pacifics can probably explain better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward- Z88 Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Yes as Kevin explained earlier, Pacific’s (old and new)have a smal lump of metal sticking out of the lantern where the burner attaches. The burner has a cut out in the same place with a recessed sprung microswitch. It is possible if you have the burner on at a slight angle to miss the microswitch as you said so that it appears either a lamp or fuse has gone. Also when testing lamps not in the lantern and just in the burner (which isn’t recommended) then the lamp will only light if something is inserted into the recessed microswitch to turn it on. I believe all new Selecon lanterns have the same microswitch to avoid the potential for a live lamp base- designed for their schools market I believe. Edward Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.elsbury Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 You all must have failed your reading test... "All wiring meters through plus with probes on a meter there is 240v at the socket" Which would indicate the micro switch is passing current. My money is on the lamp not fitting the lamp base correctly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgallen Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Well my thought process was that to probe the holder, for access it would not be installed in the lantern and the micro switch was defeated artificially. Since I've had experience of the micro switch being temperamental, once the lampholder is in the lantern it's feasible the switch is not activated. Of course poor lampholder contact is also highly likely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianknight Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 From experience - the lamp may not be pushed far enough in to the lampholder to make contact - it feels as though it's in place but it's not. We had this issue with the Selecon Acclaim Axial occasionally and it causes a certain amount of bad language, mostly because there's very little surface available to get a decent "purchase" on the lamp to push it home. It can't really be much else if the lampholders are new - the lamp pins are chunky enough that a few thou out of tolerance won't make a difference but if the pins are just not making contact, you'll get the symptom you're having. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shez Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Those lamp holders are a pain in the rear! I've even cracked a couple of (already expired) lamps trying to remove them. If you have a working lantern nearby, have a look at how far the lamp needs to be inserted. There's a bit of an art (and some colourful language) required to get them in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boatman Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Oh, how I wish for a return to P28s bases for all lamps! Never had a problem getting them in and out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsabre Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Oh, how I wish for a return to P28s bases for all lamps! Never had a problem getting them in and out. I've had quite a few P28 base lamps fall out by themselves though so maybe not so good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alistermorton Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Just this week had to repair a P28 base where the screw between the "cup" and the neutral tag had given up the ghost and burnt away. Quick drill and tap for a new screw sorted it, and it will probably be ok for another 30+ years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktaylor Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 Turns out one holder of the two bought is US. It looks like the metal contact in the ceramic on one pin is not in place properly. Ironically I bought the new bases a few years ago. Actually I only wanted one but it was such a good price I bought the six going. My aim is to modify four bases for my units that I can then use with laminate type work. I must say I thought I was buying blue bases at the time but never got round t checking until months after buying them! From experience - the lamp may not be pushed far enough in to the lampholder to make contact - it feels as though it's in place but it's not. We had this issue with the Selecon Acclaim Axial occasionally and it causes a certain amount of bad language, mostly because there's very little surface available to get a decent "purchase" on the lamp to push it home. It can't really be much else if the lampholders are new - the lamp pins are chunky enough that a few thou out of tolerance won't make a difference but if the pins are just not making contact, you'll get the symptom you're having.This is what has happened Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.