Brian Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 I'd be very wary about applying too much force and especially heat or liquids lest you end up with a plastic cabinet with a 38mm hole in the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave m Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 the holes are possibly slightly tapered as speakers seem to "settle in" after a gig and need a good yank to get them off. so maybe after the initial yank they will come out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldradiohand Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 What you need is a blind bearing puller or a slide hammer with an internal gripping collar, but they're not cheap. Have you tried your local garage? They should be able to extract those collars for a reasonable price. Or try cutting some slots with a dremel and using a standard bearing puller with some packing pieces for the puller to bear on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter18 Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 If you remove the thumb screw can you see the reducer? (I cannot remember if the locking thumb screw acts directly on to the stand or via a pressure plate).If you CAN see the reducer you could use this access hole to drill a ?2mm through the reducer towards the upper part of the thumb screw hole. Inserting a suitably sized screwdriver and giving this a sharp tap in the required direction MIGHT be enough to move the reducer the 1mm or so needed to unstck it.Hope this makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warrenstuart Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 If you remove the thumb screw can you see the reducer? (I cannot remember if the locking thumb screw acts directly on to the stand or via a pressure plate).If you CAN see the reducer you could use this access hole to drill a ?2mm through the reducer towards the upper part of the thumb screw hole. Inserting a suitably sized screwdriver and giving this a sharp tap in the required direction MIGHT be enough to move the reducer the 1mm or so needed to unstck it.Hope this makes sense. Hi Peter Yes this makes total sense and is a good thought as it may just need that initial bit of movement to either free it off or at least make it so that I can pull it out with mole grips etc after a bit of a knock.I'll check but I'm pretty certain the locking screw goes straight onto the pole and not onto a pressure plate. Just been checking ebay etc and my local engineers merchant and a single rawl bolt suitable for the 32mm hole is almost a tenner! Warren. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seano Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 What about something like a climbing wedge or similar? The types that they use for in cracks that expand? Just a blindfolded stab in the dark. After a quick failed google I now know they are referred to as climbing cams? The generic term for what you're thinking of is SLCD's (spring loaded camming devices) - but they are generally known as Cams, or in the UK as 'Friends'. (The brand name for the first, and for some time the only, ones available when they were invented.) If you were to try a climbing chock for this though I wouldn't go for one of those personally - I'd try a size 2 Tricam. (Which is a nice fit in the similarly sized drilled shot-holes found in some disused quarries.) Some freeze spray? May contract the metal just that fraction of a millimetre enough to loosen it? How about popping a bit of dry ice in there? Perhaps in a little puddle of anti-freeze to aid the conductivity. What you need is a blind bearing puller or a slide hammer with an internal gripping collar, but they're not cheap. Have you tried your local garage? They should be able to extract those collars for a reasonable price. Or try cutting some slots with a dremel and using a standard bearing puller with some packing pieces for the puller to bear on. The dremel thing sprang to my mind too. I wondered about routing out a couple of L shaped channels to 'bayonet fit' a bar into. Or perhaps a small engineering shop could actually tap the adapter and screw a big ole bolt into it. Right then - I suppose I should contribute a fresh idea of my own, now I've commented on everyone else's.... ;) Risky, if it failed - but how about giving the inside a good clean to get any rust/dust off, and then setting a bit of studding (perhaps with a few nuts on the end to fill the space) into the adaptor with epoxy resin. When it's gone off, you could then drill a hole in a bit of timber, set it over the hole and stand it off with a couple of packing pieces, and simply tighten up a nut on the other end of the studding to pull out the adapter. Just been checking ebay etc and my local engineers merchant and a single rawl bolt suitable for the 32mm hole is almost a tenner! You don't necessarily need to fill the whole thing with expansion bolt though - maybe you could pack out most of the space with something else. Nestle a 12mm rawl bolt in among half a dozen 10mm bolts with their heads cut off for example (though it would be a bugger to get the rawl bolt to 'bite' initially - I guess you'd need to hold it with some mole grips or something to be able to torque up the bolt). Does your local engineers merchant do 'sale or return'? ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandall Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Are the built-in 35mm holes plastic? If so, & if all else fails, is it possible to drill out a small hole in the centre of the base, from inside the box, & give the 32mm sleeve a tap (or even a good belt) from behind, using a small bolt & a hammer? It would still be worth freezing the sleeve & lubricating the gap first. I've never had cause to look inside an SX300, so if the answer to my 1st question is "no", don't bother to read the rest. I need some "thinking outside the box" help here please :-) Alternative thought. If you can lay your hands on a bit of 32mm tube (old lighting stand?), how about super-glueing a few inches of it into your reducer, which then gives you lots of opportunity to do violent things to it without destroying the speaker? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peza2010 Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Could you weld a long bolt to the reducer?allowing you to give the bolt a few sidewise taps to lever it out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 I think the problem with many of the above suggestion, like Rawlbolts, is that they will cause the adaptor to expand even more and to bind itself even tighter to the main receptacle. It's only going to have thin (1.2mm?) walls which'll not stop any internal pressure distorting it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sam.spoons Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 I definitely wouldn't want to weld a metal sleeve inside a plastic cabinet. 100/1 you'll melt the cab. Can you drill a couple of holes in the visible end sleeve, attach a wire strop and pull the sleeve out with a big lever or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Electrolytic Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Reciprocating saw... Cut a slot very carefully all the way down the adaptor, you should then be able to bend the metal into the cavity which will reduce the adaptor's diameter. This assumes you have a) a reciprocating saw b) no need for the spigot adaptor afterwards c) a steady hand This is the best solution.I have done this to remove 25year old bearings from an axle. cut a slot carefully into the tube. with a chisel / screwdriver & a hammer deform the metal in on its-self it will eventually fall out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john deans Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I have had this happen with different speakers. The bottom end of the adapter is flared either to make it easier to fit on the stand or to prevent the adapter going too far into the receptacle in the speaker. Unfortunately with one set of speakers the pole mount hole was just big enough for the flared section to jam in. one suggestion was to get someone to weld a short piece of metal to the sleeve then pull it out, the speakers just have a label on them now :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifuse Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 If there's enough sticking up, try fitting a chain type strap wrench and try to rotate the insert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warrenstuart Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 If there's enough sticking up, try fitting a chain type strap wrench and try to rotate the insert Sadly there isn't enough sticking out only about 2 - 3mm, thanks for the suggestion though. Going to have a go at getting them out either tomorrow or Weds so will post up how I get on!!?? :unsure: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warrenstuart Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 Well they're out :D They weren't glued in etc as I suspected just stuck in... HARD!I drilled 2 small holes 180 degrees to one-another in the short section that was sticking out and run some military spec flex weave type of wire through the holes but couldn't pull them out by hand even with riggers gloves on to stop the wire cutting into my hands and standing on the speaker at the same time.So a bit of "tat & technology" came up with a wooden lever and some blocks to get the first one out. The second one was stuck fast so got my bottle jack on the job with a piece of wood to spread the load on the cabinet. It came out but I did think at one stage oh dear what's going to give first, the cabinet or the adapter sleeve?!! Pic below with the bottle jack pulling the second one out, you can just see it coming out but the wood was creaking and I was dreading the wire snapping.Sorry for poor quality pic but I just grabbed my phone on the spur of the moment. http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z474/warrenstuart/Adaptor2_zps80c8dd24.jpg Thanks for all of the suggestions everyone it's what gave me the ideas so thankyou :) Warren. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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