Dave m

Superclamps are great (Manfrotto or copies) you might find a magic arm useful as they go floppy when loose and tighten up when you have the angle you want. Years ago I used a simple bit of studding shoved through an old G clamp to hang a camera in a studio theatre. Most theatres have the stuff hanging around. What I did was to fit a piece of flat bar at the bottom of the studding (double nutted and nylock nuts.) I also used a quick release tripod bracket as the cameras had to come up and down. You could source 1/4” W studding if the camera can flip the image upside down. This would negate the need for a camera mount.

To be honest, the way to go for zero latency is composite. Digital is great, but every converter introduces latency. The cheaper you go, the greater the delay (normally) a camera with SDI is probably easier to distribute than hdmi.

Are these all in one place with you having the ability to add software? A place I work at uses YuJa on their machines. I assume that it requires an account, IT to install and store?

Back when I did this I tried all sorts. Quicktime screen recording (on a Mac) A cheap gaming recorder that seemed to have issues, getting a copy of the PP on a stick and whipping to the screen with the camera and back in order to be able to ID the slide ATEM. So long as the computer is seen by the ATEM and can be split to the projector, connect a camera and record live if you can, or use an ISO and do it in post.

You won’t find many/any old school RF input TVs these days. Many TVs don’t have composite either. But you can buy DVTB modulators which would probably work with your existing cables and maybe the distribution amp. Then you’d need small Digital TVs capable of free view which the DVTB modulator feeds, having converted your feed to a cop of a free view signal. Most have HDMI inputs which you need to supply the show on. Some have several inputs so you could have several “channels” on the show relay. There’s bound to be a bit of a delay but show relay doesn’t matter.

I use a mix of 5ltr sceenwash/ other containers. 5ltr water is 5kg. 5ltr dry sand is 8.5 Water is brilliant for temporary stuff as the containers are light when empty and water is almost everywhere I also use cheap saddlebag type bags from Amazon type suppliers which are nylon and double zipped. I used to fill them with polythene bags of gravel but use heavy chain (expensive) now last couple of stageweights I bought were £50 inc delivery and weighed 12.5kg. stageweights bought today will still work as well on day one as when all of us are long gone.

What recorders do they have? Tascam DR40 types and Zooms normally have 2 x Jack/XLR inputs and I am pretty sure that the Tascam sat least can run their built in mics as well as external. I used to do a lot of multicam video and it would stay in sync. If a zoom type recorder can stay in sync with a camera at 16bit/48k. Then it will stay in sync with another unit. How you’d sync the sound files is debatable but an announcement followed by a handclap should do? Obviously there are four channel recorders, or even something like a Zoom L8 The L8 is a mixer with built in SD recorder that does 8 live channels plus mix.

If you were using outside a lot you could use Buffalo Board or similar? Phenolic 18mm is about £60-70 a sheet but doesn’t need paint.

Charity shops/ bigger ex retail sheds used by charities as shops have tons of “brown furniture” and nick-nacs as pretty much nobody under 70 values them. My Mum had several tea sets that came out for special events but everyone I know uses mugs. (Even if Elvis appeared) Buying excess stock is probably cheaper than protecting the correct number of cups. Just suck up a few breakages. Bear in mind that the stage will be 20 feet away from the front row (ish)

I am more video than audio, and imagine each mic as a camera. Or think of it as recording an orchestra /band multi mic/track. As said, you could simply way Mic 1 / 2 /3. Recording 1/ 2/3 and Take 1/2/3. Mic being the placement, Recording being the sound (music or speech) and Take being the first, second or third attempt.

When people say “IEM” they tend to think wireless. There are various home brewed ways to power cheap wired headphones to reduce costs. Not long ago, I bought a cheap Amazon IEM wireless to distribute audio between a couple of rooms. It works, but untried in anger and probably not too rugged. If you can access a CRT video monitor and camera (avoid hdmi) you could have a conductor or video countdown visible to the choir. Digital cctv tend to have delays. You need to ensure that the music and video are in sync at delivery

Does the projected image have to be seen while the rig is in motion? What about a pantograph? I admit that the ones I used are manual, but motorised ones are available,

Most LED floods give flicker on camera, Halogen might be preferable (if available) Do you have a van/scaff tower/ A Frame ladder? getting height is hard without a budget. We used to use Gas Genies a long time ago.

Or some M10 studding cut into over length bits, stick in a vice and apply heat to bend into an L shape? Delux version gets some heat shrink on the handle part.

You could use lengths of studding and right angle dexion to make a cage to support the projector? It’s not light, so the cage would need to be sturdy. I have done stuff like this in the past. It depends on your competence to build it safe enough to be over people’s heads. I’d use two G clamps to hold it hanging from the bar, along with two safety chains/bonds. That assumes you can adjust the height of the bar or zoom.

I think I have lost it now, but my Dad had a small brass coloured screwdriver with a screw cap. Like a set of Russian Dolls, it contained a series of smaller screwdrivers (not bits) each of which fitted inside one another and also fitted onto the driver end of the next side up. In theory you could extend using all of them but in reality you’d use a couple to make the driver manageable. They probably date from the fifties and I am sure that they are “somewhere” at home

I always called it a dummy load. The light can be anywhere. Often under the stage or behind something to hide any light.

I am pretty sure that the camera only has one BNC? That will be a composite signal, SDI would be sent to the CCU or recorder.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wells-Lamont-1209L-Premium-Leather/dp/B0095DCV0K/ref=sr_1_6?adgrpid=123323446317&hvadid=593040237761&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9050362&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=3610761151969590932&hvtargid=kwd-1305659050788&hydadcr=22585_2214454&keywords=wells%2Blamont%2Bgloves%2Buk&qid=1701456674&sr=8-6&th=1 I got mine from Costco in a three pack (pairs!) They aren’t that good for tiny objects, years ago I had some fingerless ones but then you get nipped fingertips. I can only find Large on Amazon.

https://www.flyingtech.co.uk/fpv-camera-gimbals/mini-digital-video-recorder-dvr-fpv-racing-drones https://www.immersionrc.com/fpv-products/powerplay/ I looked into these a year or so back, as someone wanted to “convert” an old cam corder to a usable format so they could edit footage shot on the vintage camera. I got onto the second one because people who use a truly dreadful audio cassette based kids toy camera for grainy art videos have used them. The camera was a PXL that is sought after, though Lord knows why!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Caydo-Screen-Printing-Instructions-Cyanotypes/dp/B0CF5KPSLF/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=30Y4CADZBEPP5&keywords=uv+light+for+cyanotype&qid=1700401134&sprefix=Uv+cyanotype%2Caps%2C118&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1 someone asked me to help with the above. It has a euro 2 pin plug. Not a 110 USA type plug. The bumph says 110v . I could remove the moulded plug and fit a USA one, running a 110 transformer, but suspect that it’s actually 220v How safe (for the device) is it to try 220v? I don’t want to blow up any internal boards. TIA

Thanks for the comments. It is a piece of performance art, so we can’t use triggered sfx. I don’t have to make it, I am just tying to help someone remotely.

I am working with someone who wants to do a performance using contact mics/ tie clips on a wooden floor (that may have to be made) The idea is that the floor will be built to deliberately creak so the noise can be miked up. Any idea on a structure that we could build with built in creak? Obviously getting rid of creaks is a topic on here. ta

Tascam do a recorder specifically for DSLs. I have used a fair few “40’s” which are similar to a Zoom. But the DSLR one is about £150-175 and better aimed at DSLRs. But if the X32 can do a 48k usb recording it should be simple to sync I’ve never played with a DSLR seriously, other than a few short takes. I do long form. Do DSLRs still shut off after 20 mins? You used to be able to crack a Canon with Magic Lantern