BlueClone - The Blue Room's Own Comms System

[Brian]

One suggestion is twin 3.5mm stereo jacks for the front panel headset instead of the existing 4-pole jack. This will allow PC compatible headsets to be used. A stacked jack would be fine, but is rather an obscure component; so side-by-side jacks are probably going to be needed.

 

I've been thinking about how we can make the more difficult to get hold of bits available to the widest audience.

 

Resistors are one area to look at. Whilst people like Maplin will sell you a single resistor, 36p each is a bit steep given that the price I pay for production quantities is 0.9p each. A long-time Blue Room member has offered to do some kitting up so I'm thinking about putting together a bag of resistors with enough parts in it to make, say, 5 beltpacks. This could be expanded to cover most of the other low-value components. My hesitation is that I'm going to have to spend a reasonable sum of money up-front although I am also thinking about making a reasonable quantity of beltpacks for my own use.

 

I don't envisage supplying those parts which, when bought in reasonable quantities, do not attract minimum order charges or excessive shipping charges. For example, I don't see myself supplying boxes, XLRs or PCBs.

 

I do have a source for the vertically stacked 3.5mm stereo jacks so might include those in the kit.

 

 

Cracking work guys!

Thanks.

TBH, of late, John has been doing all the leg-work on this project. He gets my thanks too.

[Hieronymus]

Thanks for the feedback. It's great to know that it functions well in a real live event and that the gaming headsets are a success. Please let us know what you think we could improve and we'll see what is possible.

 

Hi, I've finally found some time to type a bit and take a new picture. The comments are mostly about the panel layout and the implementation for the 3.5mm jacks.

 

 

 

Improvements on the design:

 

 

 

• Switch the mic-switch and side-tone rejection adjustment so the mic switch is furtheraway from the volume knob.
  • Easier to access without disturbing the volume.
  • A bigger switch can be mounted

  [*]Change the microphone switch to an on-off type

  • Ideal would be the latching push button as on the PSU, but I guess that would take tomuch board space.
  • Something with a bigger lever would be much better and less fiddly for fat fingeredpeople.

  [*]Change the microphone switch to a vertical moving type (not horizontal)

  • This allows for even bigger fingers to operate the switch easily

  [*]Remove the 4p 3.5mm jack in favor of two 3.5mm stereo jacks.[*]Add the option on the board for the 100uF capacitor between GND and headphonereturn (and headphone amp +). This was the solution to protect the headphoneamp against common grounded headsets.[*]Make the drill holes for the 3.5mm optional in the panel (or make alternative panelfile)[*]If two stacked PCB mounted 3.5mm jacks are expensive, I'd prefer the panel mountedones. (let me know which ones you had in mind)

  • Costs for the two isolated jacks: 2.15 euro (http://nl.farnell.com/pro-signal/mj-073h/socket-3-5mm-jack-3pole/dp/1267396)Isolated to prevent grounding the whole chassis if using metal panels.Otherwise use the Lumberg (http://nl.farnell.com/lumberg/klb-4/connector-rca-jack-3-5mm-3way/dp/1200144)or even the cheaper multicomp alternative.
  • Cost for the connector 0.32 euro + pins 0.33
  • Doing it panel mount, there is no real solution for the protection cap. (as shown inthe picture)

  [*]Change the LED's to a circuit board type, like: http://cpc.farnell.com/marl/113-305-04/led-pcb-3mm-red/dp/SC11648

  • In my BOM there is about 0,25 pound budget to replace a LED and spacer. (this oneis cheaper)
  • It's easier to mount
  • The LED doesn't stick out of the case that much. (so it will take less impacts andoverall damage)
  • It looks less clunky
  • The same applies to the LEDs on the PSU

  [*]I'm still planning my 'extension' boards for tally signals. It would be useful tochange one of the two GND connections on the header for a VCC (supply voltage) connection.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Rob_P]

I have a bit of time between shows and I have a big pile of components waiting to be built into a Bluecom set, so it is time to order some PCBs and then get on with it!

 

I have a couple of questions about the ITEAD file renaming etc though if anyone can help!

 

Their website specifies the following Gerber files needed for 2-layer PCB boards:

• Top layer: pcbname.GTL
• Bottom layer: pcbname.GBL
• Solder Stop Mask top: pcbname.GTS
• Solder Stop Mask Bottom pcbname.GBS
• Silk Top: pcbname.GTO
• Silk Bottom pcbname.GBO
• NC Drill: pcbname.TXT
• Outline layer: pcbname.GKO

I have downloaded the BluecombeltpackV1_2.rar file and renamed the Silkscreen, Top and Bottom Copper and Mask files as they have suggested, but am not sure about the drill files. Which of the three drill files in the .rar file should be renamed to the TXT file, and what should I do with the others? Likewise, should there be a outline layer file so that the boards can be cut to size?

 

Sorry for the silly questions - Last time I needed custom PCBs it involved messing about with Ferric Choride!

 

Any help much appreciated!

 

 

 

 

 

[boatman]

I have a bit of time between shows and I have a big pile of components waiting to be built into a Bluecom set, so it is time to order some PCBs and then get on with it!

 

I have a couple of questions about the ITEAD file renaming etc though if anyone can help!

 

Their website specifies the following Gerber files needed for 2-layer PCB boards:

• Top layer: pcbname.GTL
• Bottom layer: pcbname.GBL
• Solder Stop Mask top: pcbname.GTS
• Solder Stop Mask Bottom pcbname.GBS
• Silk Top: pcbname.GTO
• Silk Bottom pcbname.GBO
• NC Drill: pcbname.TXT
• Outline layer: pcbname.GKO

I have downloaded the BluecombeltpackV1_2.rar file and renamed the Silkscreen, Top and Bottom Copper and Mask files as they have suggested, but am not sure about the drill files. Which of the three drill files in the .rar file should be renamed to the TXT file, and what should I do with the others? Likewise, should there be a outline layer file so that the boards can be cut to size?

 

Sorry for the silly questions - Last time I needed custom PCBs it involved messing about with Ferric Choride!

 

Any help much appreciated!

 

For Itead, you don't need a separate board outline file as it's contained within the copper layers. The right drill file is "BluecomBeltpack - Drill Data - Through Hole.drl". The other two are a drill ident drawing and and a drill file for unplated holes which isn't needed.

 

Hope that helps.

Edited July 2, 2014 by boatman

[Rob_P]

Thanks Boatman.

 

I have placed the order now, and am looking forward to starting the build!

[boatman]

It looks like we have a flurry of people with time on their hands at the moment and they all want to be building Bluecom boxes. If you are having PCBs made at iTead you need to rename some files before sending them for manufacture. So there's no more confusion here's a list of renames you need to make.

 

xxxxx - Top Silk.gbr -> xxxxx.GTO

xxxxx - Top Mask.gbr -> xxxxx.GTS

xxxxx - Top Copper.gbr -> xxxxx.GTL

xxxxx - Bottom Copper.gbr -> xxxxx.GBL

xxxxx - Bottom Mask.gbr -> xxxxx.GBS

xxxxx - Drill Data - Through Hole.drl -> xxxxx.TXT

 

The other two files "xxxxx - Drill Ident Drawing - Through Hole.gbr" and "xxxxx - Drill Data - Through Hole (Unplated).drl" are not required by iTead, but may be required by other PCB manufacturers.

 

If you are having the separate panels made by iTead you need "Top Mask", "Top Copper" and "Through Hole (Unplated)" files only (appropriately renamed) and you also need to explain to them that there is NO etching on the copper and the final board should be plated.

 

If you are having paired panels made by iTead you also need the "Top Silk.gbr" file (renamed as .GTO) as this will give you the guidelines for sawing the panels apart. ITead Studio do not have the facility to use the "V-Groove" Gerber files as this is intended for more specialised PCB manufactures who can mark the panels with a v-groove for snapping apart.

 

Although the PCB front and back panels do look rather swanky, they are relatively expensive (compared to the main boards) as they are larger than the iTead 100mm x 100mm size limit and fall into the next price bracket.

 

I hope that helps everyone who is building Bluecom units in the near future.

[Rob_P]

On that note, I am expecting a batch of 10 PSU boards and 10 belt-pack boards to arrive. I only plan to use 1 PSU board and no more than 5 beltback boards, so I am happy to pass the spares on to other people (at cost + P&P) if anyone is interested!

[Hieronymus]

 

 

One suggestion is twin 3.5mm stereo jacks for the front panel headset instead of the existing 4-pole jack. This will allow PC compatible headsets to be used. A stacked jack would be fine, but is rather an obscure component; so side-by-side jacks are probably going to be needed. There is a requirement for an extra 100uF capacitor so that PC compatible headsets can be used with one half of the bridge amplifier and not have a 12V DC bias on the signal. Obviously this will reduce the headset volume considerably but BR member Hieronymous has found the level OK.

 

 

I guess that I missed this post. I don't recal the PC headset MIC not having the 12V bias. I thought I actually used it. The gain was more then enough though. Also a 12V DC bias is more then a PC motherboard will supply. I'll have some notes on this, so I will check it later next week.

 

 

 

 

[boatman]

 

 

One suggestion is twin 3.5mm stereo jacks for the front panel headset instead of the existing 4-pole jack. This will allow PC compatible headsets to be used. A stacked jack would be fine, but is rather an obscure component; so side-by-side jacks are probably going to be needed. There is a requirement for an extra 100uF capacitor so that PC compatible headsets can be used with one half of the bridge amplifier and not have a 12V DC bias on the signal. Obviously this will reduce the headset volume considerably but BR member Hieronymous has found the level OK.

 

 

I guess that I missed this post. I don't recal the PC headset MIC not having the 12V bias. I thought I actually used it. The gain was more then enough though. Also a 12V DC bias is more then a PC motherboard will supply. I'll have some notes on this, so I will check it later next week.

 

The 12VDC bias mentioned in that post is on the headphone output (to ground) if you only use one half of the output bridge amp as there is no isolating capacitor in the original design. I think you added additional flying 100uF caps to solve the problem. The mic input does have a switchable 12VDC bias available.

[Hieronymus]

One suggestion is twin 3.5mm stereo jacks for the front panel headset instead of the existing 4-pole jack. This will allow PC compatible headsets to be used. A stacked jack would be fine, but is rather an obscure component; so side-by-side jacks are probably going to be needed. There is a requirement for an extra 100uF capacitor so that PC compatible headsets can be used with one half of the bridge amplifier and not have a 12V DC bias on the signal. Obviously this will reduce the headset volume considerably but BR member Hieronymous has found the level OK.

 

 

I guess that I missed this post. I don't recal the PC headset MIC not having the 12V bias. I thought I actually used it. The gain was more then enough though. Also a 12V DC bias is more then a PC motherboard will supply. I'll have some notes on this, so I will check it later next week.

 

The 12VDC bias mentioned in that post is on the headphone output (to ground) if you only use one half of the output bridge amp as there is no isolating capacitor in the original design. I think you added additional flying 100uF caps to solve the problem. The mic input does have a switchable 12VDC bias available.

 

 

oh, your so right. I should brush upon my amplifier theory...... Indeed, I did add the 100uF cap between HP(+) and the tip/ring of the 3.5mm of the headphone out. (and the sleeve to GND. That way the cap is only 'in the circuit' when a headphone jack is in the socket. Not sure what would happen if you would connect a PC headset this way AND a profi headset via the 4p XLR.)

 

 

 

 

[botsdots]

Hi,

 

I started populating PCBs over the weekend. I started with the v1.10 parts list (Booooooo!) Ended up populating a bunch of resistors wrong. Started over with the correct parts list and things are going well. I have a couple questions.

 

1. Other than the 1kv C1/C2, do I really need 100v and 200v caps all over the place or are 35V and 50V caps acceptable. I'm a novice when it comes to this stuff but have tried to understand the theory as much as possible... I have a bunch of 50v caps on hand and would have to order the 100/200v which I'm trying to avoid.

 

2. Does anyone have a final assembled height for the belt pack and PSU? I'm trying to source enclosures in the US and am having a rough time. I'm about to just eat the shipping and order from Newark, but I'm not giving up yet.

 

Thanks!

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/danielsmithsd/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140707_091733_zpspuzvhhvg.jpg

 

[Hieronymus]

Hi,

 

I started populating PCBs over the weekend. I started with the v1.10 parts list (Booooooo!) Ended up populating a bunch of resistors wrong. Started over with the correct parts list and things are going well. I have a couple questions.

 

1. Other than the 1kv C1/C2, do I really need 100v and 200v caps all over the place or are 35V and 50V caps acceptable. I'm a novice when it comes to this stuff but have tried to understand the theory as much as possible... I have a bunch of 50v caps on hand and would have to order the 100/200v which I'm trying to avoid.

 

2. Does anyone have a final assembled height for the belt pack and PSU? I'm trying to source enclosures in the US and am having a rough time. I'm about to just eat the shipping and order from Newark, but I'm not giving up yet.

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

Hi,

 

1) You can find the 'orderlist' I made (for CPC and farnell) on my blog here http://www.thinkingtwist.nl/downloads/ (and links are throughtout this topic). As per the Original partlist I have C1, C2 @ 1000V; C8, C13, C26 @ 100V and C15 @ 200V. The power unit has C1, C2, C6 and C8 @ 1000V. The rest is just 'standard' and choices based on brand, price and availabitlity.

 

2) The big caps for the PSU are chosen to fit the enclosure. So if you look at the schematics, figure out max height and subtract 1mm you probably more accurate. (http://www.farnell.c...ets/1520835.pdf)

 

3) Your build looks good at first glance

* Only your call LED is a bit weird this way. Since the LED should be placed on a spacer and on an angle, I guess the hole in the panel for it is a bit to high (so the LED is not directly in or behind the hole)

* It looks like your 'feet' for IC3 is placed backward (notch should be on the top). Be aware of this when you place the actual IC

Edited July 8, 2014 by Hieronymus

[botsdots]

Thanks for the link and for the voltages. I was finally able to find the same enclosures in the US and they're fairly well priced at $11.50. I was able to source them from Allied part number B3-080BK

 

 

 

For the call LED... I have the spacers but wasn't happy with how they mounted. Having read your post about them, I decided to put them straight on the board for a couple reasons. First, I'm not sure "call" is something we'll end up using in my scenario. It's a small group in close proximity with specific tasks and for a fixed time period. Second, I thought about some kind of "light pipe" solution, but those seem expensive. Worst case scenario, I remove the LED and try something different.

 

 

I think it's the light that makes the IC3 socket look different. I'll have to check the board again when I get home from work.

[botsdots]

More progress. Not sure if this is the appropriate place to post these, but I think these might be helpful to some.

 

I built two more last night sans capacitors that I had to reorder and haven't come in yet. I tried one of the LED spacers I have (not the same as listed in the BOM) and I don't like it. It feels like the LED might as well just be soldered and bent in place. All the light pipe stuff I like is designed for surface mount LEDs so that doesn't seem like an option. I did find a light pipe for 5mm leds but it was $5 each. Not worth it.

 

I've been purchasing smaller parts from a company called Tayda Electronics in Thailand. They ship worldwide, but for US purchasers (maybe others, just my experience), they have an intermediate shipping option which is very affordable that gets products to you in 3-5 business days. Anyways, I took the BOM that Hieronymus provided and added parts supplied from Tayda (whatever they stock), then Mouser and the enclosures from Allied. If someone wants this, let me know. I'm trying to make a one-sheet form where you fill out the quantities and it gives you an order sheet for all three suppliers.

 

Does anyone have a couple PSU boards they want to sell?

Edited July 9, 2014 by botsdots

[Rob_P]

Well, having followed boatman's file renaming guidance, my order of boards turned up on Friday. I spent yesterday afternoon building the PSU and a pair of beltpacks, although I haven't actually tried them out properly yet.

 

I can confirm that the boards look superb, and are ridiculous value for money, so order from iTead with confidence.

 

Once again, thanks to Boatman and the team!

 

Rob