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More progress. Not sure if this is the appropriate place to post these, but I think these might be helpful to some. I built two more last night sans capacitors that I had to reorder and haven't come in yet. I tried one of the LED spacers I have (not the same as listed in the BOM) and I don't like it. It feels like the LED might as well just be soldered and bent in place. All the light pipe stuff I like is designed for surface mount LEDs so that doesn't seem like an option. I did find a light pipe for 5mm leds but it was $5 each. Not worth it. I've been purchasing smaller parts from a company called Tayda Electronics in Thailand. They ship worldwide, but for US purchasers (maybe others, just my experience), they have an intermediate shipping option which is very affordable that gets products to you in 3-5 business days. Anyways, I took the BOM that Hieronymus provided and added parts supplied from Tayda (whatever they stock), then Mouser and the enclosures from Allied. If someone wants this, let me know. I'm trying to make a one-sheet form where you fill out the quantities and it gives you an order sheet for all three suppliers. Does anyone have a couple PSU boards they want to sell?

Thanks for the link and for the voltages. I was finally able to find the same enclosures in the US and they're fairly well priced at $11.50. I was able to source them from Allied part number B3-080BK For the call LED... I have the spacers but wasn't happy with how they mounted. Having read your post about them, I decided to put them straight on the board for a couple reasons. First, I'm not sure "call" is something we'll end up using in my scenario. It's a small group in close proximity with specific tasks and for a fixed time period. Second, I thought about some kind of "light pipe" solution, but those seem expensive. Worst case scenario, I remove the LED and try something different. I think it's the light that makes the IC3 socket look different. I'll have to check the board again when I get home from work.

Hi, I started populating PCBs over the weekend. I started with the v1.10 parts list (Booooooo!) Ended up populating a bunch of resistors wrong. Started over with the correct parts list and things are going well. I have a couple questions. 1. Other than the 1kv C1/C2, do I really need 100v and 200v caps all over the place or are 35V and 50V caps acceptable. I'm a novice when it comes to this stuff but have tried to understand the theory as much as possible... I have a bunch of 50v caps on hand and would have to order the 100/200v which I'm trying to avoid. 2. Does anyone have a final assembled height for the belt pack and PSU? I'm trying to source enclosures in the US and am having a rough time. I'm about to just eat the shipping and order from Newark, but I'm not giving up yet. Thanks! http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/danielsmithsd/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140707_091733_zpspuzvhhvg.jpg

Thanks for the input. The parts (most of them) were indeed available from Newark, but they're shipping them across the pond which incurs international freight charges. Not bad if you sourcing parts for a whole run, but not great when you want a couple parts here or there. I'm going to try to source other parts locally and will update what I can when I find them. Daniel

Generally, I've found that Cliff (4 pole 3.5mm jack) and Multicomp (enclosure, switches, etc.) are not available via US suppliers. I've worked to find foot-print and panel-compatible substitutes. I haven't tested these, but will be working on testing them in the near future (I have parts and boards on order, but am waiting for the boards to come in before ordering panels). Here are the subs: SW3: C&K T107MH9ABE (Digi-key: CKN1387-ND, Mouser: 611-T107MH9ABE) VR2: Alps RK09K1110A2S (Digi-key: N/A, Mouser: 688-RK09K1110A2S) For VR2, I was unable to find the specified pot anywhere (even on Alps' own website)... The part listed about was the only one I could find, though it seems very similar.