Flightcase construction

[The Magus]

Wow, I've not seen a single 5 Star case that hasn't perished very quickly at the clasps, hinges or other joints!

 

I've used a lot of 5 Star cases over the years, and have always found them to be extremely robust. However I recently bought an almost new 5 Star case via Ebay, and was dismayed to find that it was made of MDF rather than ply, and was feather-light. It was one of these: http://www.5star-cases.com/body_19__racks.html#8UGearBox from their Gear Box range. Beware!

[StevieR]

Wow, I've not seen a single 5 Star case that hasn't perished very quickly at the clasps, hinges or other joints!

 

If you are referring to the corrosion often seen on the metal fittings, well, this is common to all flightcases. All depends on the storage conditions and environment. Keep them in damp conditions and this will happen.

 

We've been using 5-Star for a while now and the only problem we have had was some staved-in corners on some new racks which the carrier had somehow managed to accomplish during transit. We think they dropped them out of a plane or something!

 

Steve

[Oolong]

Lots of great advice here, which I'm glad I found as there's almost nothing to be found on the web about designing your own flightcases!

 

Since I can't afford a ready-made one, and my particular rack needs to be deeper than the standard ones I'm considering making one myself. I'm aiming for something like this:

http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/51/rtl17x12stordc8.jpg

 

I'll be using 9mm film-covered plywood as I've heard the pros use.

I believe for the bottom I need to use a "casemaker" or "double angled" extrusion such as the E2265 from Penn-elecom:

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/289/e2265tb6.jpg http://img382.imageshack.us/img382/5953/e2265dwgfb1.jpg

 

That would ensure a sturdy base with the left/right wall using rivets.

 

Next I believe I can use something like the (Penn) E2300 hybrid location extrusion along all the sides of the rack:

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/2263/e2300hi9.jpg http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/6273/e2300dwgye8.jpg

 

Then there are the 3 lids of course with hybrid location extrusions as well (to mate with the rack's extrusions) etc.

 

Now, here's where I'm stuck and could need some help:

I'll need some latches, as shown in the picture above of the rack, but common sense tells me they shouldn't be any deeper than 9mm, because having mounted them at the front of the rack they shouldn't obstruct the placement of the 19" modules (effects and other electronic devices I'll be placing inside the rack when done). The only problem is that I can't seem to find any latches shallower than 9mm, and I've just learnt that one professional manufacturer of rack flightcases lists the Penn L911/527 which is 15.5mm deep!

http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/3521/l911525molww2.jpg http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/4337/l911525moldwgsj4.jpg

 

On the same page they show an "offset dish" which seems to be what the "/527" version is all about, although I can't quite figure out how this works....

http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/7708/l911525mol2ae6.jpg

 

Can anyone figure it out and have more advice for building this rack?

[Jivemaster]

Definitely a job for a PRO, Get a pro casemaker to build you one. I think most counties have a flightcase buildes, who will take your sketch and dimensions and get a full cutting list off their CAD PC and down to the works so efficiently that you wonder why you bothered risking your fingers.

[Simon Lewis]

Hi, Oolong, welcome to BR!

 

It's not unusual for a butterfly dish to protrude inside the case. The rack strip will intrude about 1cm, and the equipment has to slide inside the two rack strips, so handles & catches protruding a few mm isn't a problem.

 

You could make you own case, although if this is your first one it may be a little tricky. I'd suggest you carefully cost the parts (including the carriage). I;d be surprised if you saved very much on making it yourself. Do look at the post above I wrote last year - and work out the cost of getting the right tools if you do not have these handy.

 

Even if you do have them available, you need to have a safe method of cutting aluminium extrusion. The metal chips get everywhere, and are pretty sharp!

 

Simon

[lightsource]

Even if you do have them available, you need to have a safe method of cutting aluminium extrusion. The metal chips get everywhere, and are pretty sharp!

 

Simon

 

Wussy, Simon :) Wear gloves!

 

Try to get a metal mitre saw, so you can cut fairly accurately at 45 and 90 degrees etc ( a can of WD40 comes in handy to lube the saw as well).

 

Remember that if you're using corners, the cut on extrusions doesn't have to be too accurate, as the corners will hide most mistakes. A good metal file will also help to tidy up jaggered edges.

 

Also look at the width of the internal dims of your 19" gear.... there isn't much of a problem using deeper dishes than the gear you intend to install.

 

But back to Simons comment, remember the aluminiun filings are 'sharps', so tidy up after every session

[MarkPAman]

Since I can't afford a ready-made one, and my particular rack needs to be deeper than the standard ones I'm considering making one myself. I'm aiming for something like this.

 

I've just ordered something very much along the lines of what you're looking for. Like you I couldn't find one off the shelf, but asking for "one like your model number ###### only 3U deeper" has only added about 30% to the price. For me, I think that's better than building for myself as I know I'll get a better made case than I could do. If I had a proper workshop with the right tools that would be different, but I don't. :)

 

If you want to know who I've ordered from, PM me. I assume they have a large building with flight cases in it. :)

[Oolong]

I've just ordered something very much along the lines of what you're looking for. Like you I couldn't find one off the shelf, but asking for "one like your model number ###### only 3U deeper" has only added about 30% to the price.

 

I would definitely do the same if I didn't live in an extremely expensive Scandinavian country and had more money to begin with :(

 

At this stage however I'm going to take Simon Lewis' suggestion of cost-estimating everything before I buy the parts and possibly end up paying the same as a ready-made one.

(having made a very rough calculation I've found that making my own will cost around half the price of a ready built rack flightcase).

 

PS: Luckily I have a relative with a room full of tools (and being handy I'm sure he can give me some pointers as well), so I don't need to add that to the totalt cost.

 

Hi, Oolong, welcome to BR!

 

It's not unusual for a butterfly dish to protrude inside the case. The rack strip will intrude about 1cm, and the equipment has to slide inside the two rack strips, so handles & catches protruding a few mm isn't a problem.

 

Thanks, Simon!

 

I don't quite understand....

I've made a drawing which illustrates the stuff I've figured out so far:

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/5919/rackfronthd3.jpg

To start with I've used three wooden sections: the bottom and the two sides. All in 9mm plywood.

There won't be any top (or "roof") since I'll have a "tiltable" rack for a mixer at the top (see my first photos (in my first posting) which I found somewhere on the web).

The bottom and sides will be joined together with "casemaker" extrusions as shown in the illustration above, and in more detail here:

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/7258/casemakercf7.png

Have I understood the use of these correctly? (in the illustration above the extrusions are seen from the side. They will go alongside the bottom edge of the left and right sides of the rack).

Before I came across those extrusions I thought the way to go was to use normal right-angled extrusions, but with the "casemaker" extrusions I believe the construction will be a lot stronger, right?

 

Next there are the hybrid extrusions that go all along the front edge of the rack (as well as the rear edge and lids of course). As Lightsource suggested, I should be using a mitre-saw here and cut them at 45 degrees, making them fit neatly together.

 

 

Now, getting back to the butterfly latches...

I don't quite understand how the latch protruding inside the rack won't cause a problem.

Look at my illustration (the large one giving a complete overview).

I've drawn a 19" rack device (a synthesizer, effects unit or whatever) which has a width of exactly 19" (482.6mm). I've read elsewhere that I should leave some extra room in case of non-standard rack devices, so the total inner-width of the case should be 19.125" (485.775mm). This should leave an additional 3.175mm, or 1.5875mm on each side.

 

As for the butterfly latches; if I mount the 19" rack rails directly to the sides of the case I surely can't block the sides of the case with protruding latches? Or else I can't mount the 19" rack modules inside the case!

Have I misunderstood something, or are the rack rails meant to be mounted on wooden strips, protruding inwards, like this?:

http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/8919/rackinnerprotrudingrailmq9.jpg

 

That would certainly leave room for protruding latches.

But perhaps you meant something else?

[J Pearce]

For the equipment to slot into the 19" rack, only the front face is 19" wide. Behind the face it has to be slimmer than 19" for it to slot into a rack. This gap gives you the space for your latches.

[paulears]

The thing with the catches - you're just missing one element.

 

The rack sizes are as follows.

 

The distance between the two side panels is usually detailed as 486mm.

The maximum case size, (not including the rack ears) is 449mm max -

The opening between the inner edges of the rack strip is 450mm to allow the equipment to slide in.

The equipment is normally 483mm rack ear to rack ear (or front panel) - as in 19"

The distanc between fixing centres is 465mm

 

So for things like handles on the side with deep bowls, the total internal width available, wall to wall is 37mm wider than the maximum possible internal case size - allowing for a maximum of 18mm protrusion into the case, either side.

 

The bit you want is why this goes a bit wrong on the knob side of the rack strip. The butterfly catches are not fitted directly to the side panel, the are normally fitted over the top of the extrusion, so in the case of the one above, your extrusion size is 13mm, and the catch depth is 15.5, so you get a 2.5mm protrusion into the case - I'm pretty sure that when you normally use these HD versions, you also go for the thicker wall material extrusion. The slimmer, lighter weight catches are a better match, as the medium penn latches are 13mm deep to match the extrusion.

 

I've built some, bought lots. My own ones were always heavier, just as strong, and great - finish wise. The real issues for me were how much I underestimated how long they took to make, the extra material required when I mis-measured (and yes I know it's measure twice, cut once) and the fact that you MUST have a proper pop-rivet gun. The cheap ones are truly a waste of time. I have 3 semi-duff ones in the workshop. They seem to last about half a box of rivets! If your labour really is free, then go for it - it isn't worth paying anyone to help you - that's how close the cost comparison is.

 

Three tips. Some blank 19" panels are very useful for rigidity while you're assembling them. Make a small edge jig that lets you put the rivet holes in the correct place - it is so easy to slip by a mm or two, and the rivet burst through the panel edge and it doesn't sit properly as a result. As has been said, aluminium is very, very sharp and a file essential to prevent you wrecking your hands.

 

The kind of mistakes I've made are all to do with dimensions. The front rack door is slightly bigger than the back, so they aren't interchangeble. 90 degrees needs to really be 90 degrees! and mitres always get cut the wrong way!

[Brian]

With Allan Gordon shutting up shop where are people buying their hardware from now?

[Roderick]

Oolong,

One bit of advice, call your local audio or lighting or A/V company and see if you can have a look at a 19" rack flightcase, it will probably answer a hundred questions we can't easily answer in this forum. Pictures are one thing, actually looking at one will help you understand problems quite easily.

 

And, if it helps, in response to another thread I actually drew a 3D version of a butterfly catch:

Link to post

 

Good luck with the project (pity Ikea never caught on to 19" racks :( )

[Chris Beesley]

With Allan Gordon shutting up shop where are people buying their hardware from now?

Well I wonder... :( there is a large company based in Preston, Lancashire that does a large range all except the sheet material. Cant quite remember their name tho...

[Oolong]

Oolong,

One bit of advice, call your local audio or lighting or A/V company and see if you can have a look at a 19" rack flightcase, it will probably answer a hundred questions we can't easily answer in this forum. Pictures are one thing, actually looking at one will help you understand problems quite easily.

 

I very much agree, but haven't found any such companies. I'll give it another go though -look through the Yellow pages etc.

 

And, if it helps, in response to another thread I actually drew a 3D version of a butterfly catch:

Link to post

I've already read that thread and must say I was impressed with your drawing!

I downloaded the .DWG file as well, but alas no software on my Mac could open it :(

 

Can someone recommend easy to use CAD software for the Mac, which is either free or doesn't cost a fortune?

What I've found so far is just too complex and complicated to figure out.

I've been using Photoshop Elements for the illustrations I've done here so far, but it's not really suited for the job and takes forever to do.

 

Good luck with the project (pity Ikea never caught on to 19" racks :( )

 

Well, actually....

they haven't exactly made 19" racks (now, that would be an idea! with rack hardware and all), but check out this page which tells you how to adapt an Ikea "Rast" for placing 19" rack devices in it!

Still, way too small for me, and I would like the rack hardware to protect it and make it possible to transport it with ease.

[musht]

Can someone recommend easy to use CAD software for the Mac, which is either free or doesn't cost a fortune?

What I've found so far is just too complex and complicated to figure out.

I've been using Photoshop Elements for the illustrations I've done here so far, but it's not really suited for the job and takes forever to do.

 

Sorry to sound like a stuck record but Google Sketchup, there is a Mac version.

 

Roderick`s beautifully drawn butterfly catch DXF imports without difficulty, just needs to be rescaled. For extrusion import the .jpgs you have and trace round them, you can then literally extrude your extrusions for use in the program.

 

Just hoping somone will help expand the library ;-)