kgallen

Quite possibly you’re directing it. You’re only producing it if you’re stumping up the cash. I suspect your AmDram group are paying for it, so the AmDram group is the producer.

I was looking at FFC cables but I can’t find 2 way on a quick search. Depends if the current capacity is enough and whether you could find a suitable length as probably the preprepared ends are the only practical termination points (not sure if you can cut and scrape off in the middle!). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223528259952?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=oMMNsPhYR26&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=nsjPidUXSvu&var=522280078148&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Okey dokey, I’ll pop ‘em back in the box whence they came!

Glyn, I’ve got: 14 plugs (12 Duraplug, 2 Permaplug; 11 black, 3 white) 5 sockets (4 Duraplug, 1 Permaplug) What do you need? You can have them FOC (maybe a small donation to the Blue Room). Kevin

Glyn, I’ll check shortly - I believe I have a few 5A plugs but maybe only a couple of sockets. Regards, Kevin

Adopted now!

Free to a good home, I have 3 TH lamps lying around in the workshop that might as well go somewhere they will get used. - GE T11 1000W 240V new in box. - Wotan (Germany) T11 1000W 240V new I think if not, very lightly used. - Wotan (Germany) CP43 2000W 240V new in box. PM me. Recipient pays postage (UK only), 2nd class small parcel is £3.20 I think. Kevin

Oh yea I remember those days of ‘Badminton Club’ when I was living in and part of an amdram group in the Birmingham area! My solution at the time: booms as high up on the side walls FOH as I could get. Is that something you could consider? It’s not a total solution but could give you a workable angle for some face light if not a total stage general cover. Over stage can you fly some 6m ali bars (better still internally wired bars) at a lower height of say 4-5m? If you can get a back light bar in there, all the better, or again maybe side booms on the stage side walls? These combinations would give you a much wider range of rigging positions and hence lighting angles. Possibly for amdram shows these could be supplemented with some stand-mounted lights if feasible. Then lights-wise probably 4-6 nice fresnels with barndoors, 3 each side FOH. From above, similar or some RGBW LED wash lights. On advice from @ianknight many years back I tend to prefer Showtec rather than LEDJ at the budget end. Parcans, depending on model, might have too much of a hot spot in the centre for a general cover. Fresnel and/or wash lights from above might suit you better for a minimalist setup.

If @ianknight doesn't see this thread, it's worth pinging him. He's in Coventry and will probably be interested in the Zero88 kit if nothing else.

I find thread inserts are great for this sort of thing where you want a machine screw thread secure into timber. I think these are designed for threads into chipboard (like kitchen cabinets) but I find them useful when making set items and props. example (I searched for "thread insert" or "wood insert"): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173941619251?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item287fba7a33:g:7CwAAOSwWkdeME8G&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA4AX1Yi2xlwPkNrNXR9sFYbdfvDO4KYwT3PI7KdX5hR7verKmB6m90VqxnIDV7CsAOnUwIUZgqQWM4MjLE0ukk%2BoDkdqRcm9HE60%2BlQ4W8V7k2z1zz%2B%2F%2Bm4P1TaXwFsJykaV0OdxVYEhpovqKSa3maXtC8hqwyeMWa%2FRxe8PTPsTmR3jRps%2FavgFcAf4%2BxG98b8nsg%2BjVznh7PBd5WFy3vqNQYV0y%2Fhhu%2BBWyLPsakVsMaEDHuaFc9m1Doqn%2B2Kd9yV2eEdhomp0zzsaHn90MhU66t9i5zmOc94dK4L9eGgcJ|tkp%3ABFBM3OyBkv9f

Just watching this. They mention a lot about stereo linking the aux channels. Did you do that? Your requirement must be easy to do surely, we just have to find the way!

Nah it’ll last forever. Mine’s 16 years old and as good as new (or as bad depending on your point of view! 😆). Floppy still works perfectly. Just keep on top of that battery as @ianknight says. Hopefully it’s a CR2032 in which case I’d recommend replacing even a branded type every 2 years, 3 at most. Worth getting a login on the Zero88 forum if you haven’t already got one. https://zero88.com/forum/forum/10-frog-range-mk1/

Ouch 19 quid!?

On: Desk (and allow to boot) then lights/dimmers Off: lights/dimmers then desk (otherwise you might get DMX-hold which can be annoying if not intended)

The Sony MD machines I referred to above are using an Alps RK09L series and just looking at the data sheet now they are 50mW pots.

I did link to the thread where we discussed CFT and IFT but it’s not showing in my post above. Trying again:

IFT and CFT are different. If you just want some fixtures to read in during patch then use IFT. CFT is a composite file of 20 fixtures that is used to reprogrammed the Frog’s ‘Common’ fixtures which are the 20 fixture types held by default on the desk when it’s factory reset.

Yea I was going to suggest more like 1k too. For this sort of thing I often look in the service manual for a Sony minidisc deck. They always have the schematics and are useful for circuit ideas! Many minidisc decks (unlike CD players) have headphone outs with volume control. Look at MDS-E10 or E12 or 9xx machines. Don’t bother with late entry-level 4xx machines (eg MDS-JE440) as they don’t have headphone outs. eg https://www.minidisc.wiki/_media/equipment/sony/pro/sony_mds-e10_sm.pdf (pdf page 69, doc page 78, bottom right) Here: https://www.minidisc.org/part_Decks_Sony.html Or here: https://www.minidisc.wiki/equipment/sony/deck/start

I’m not clear what you want to achieve. Surround ‘5’ is 5 different sound mixes not stereo spread across 5 speakers. For 5 different mixes you would probably use 5 mix busses on your mixer and mix each source into those to achieve the surround effect you want. For example the centre channel may be dialogue heavy and the front left/right pair might emulate a stereo mix of supporting music. The surround rears would be ambience effects. That wouldn’t be trivial to manage if you were intending to do it live in real time. Can elaborate more on what you want to achieve, what sound sources you intend to mix and what mixer you have?

XR series can auto mute when the power goes (or more correctly can be muted when power comes up) but this might be a setting worth trying to see if the XR muting before the amp looses power helps your condition. It’s a tick box in the config settings (can’t remember the exact place and not near my XR16 to look…).

@sunray makes a valid point. Slightly off topic but at least one of my Sennheiser EW500G2 receivers doesn't have the blocking caps in the output stage. Seems to be a change on a later PCB design to introduce them. I don't know how to tell from the outside which has them, I guess the serial number will be the key, but I don't know where the change occurs.

Because they are balanced outputs wired with balanced cables. Phantom thus not an issue. However, use those inputs singled-ended and wham you have 48V across your source device.

Is it time or does the edit option go once someone else replies on the thread?

Interesting circuit - but I must be blind - there is no audio transformer in that circuit: 3 caps, 4 resistors and a zener diode. Cheap as chips (potato ones, the silicon ones are costly at the moment!).

You don’t need to change the CFT. When you go to patch the fixture, when you’re selecting it, scroll down to ‘Load from floppy’ then select the IFT file. The CFT is for the 20 different fixture types you want permanently stored on the desk from a hard reset. You can load as many other fixtures as you need from floppy when creating a show (to the limits of the number of intelligent fixtures supported on the particular variant of the Frog range you have).