kgallen

Dimmers look like these (can't find a better site yet): http://vikinglighting.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=538 I certainly hope that 4th box isn't a distro for the dimmers - 15A input per dimmer wouldn't be that useful (<3.5kW total load per dimmer). Maybe it's more of a small hot-power distro? Trace the cables. Often such dimmers (cf Zero88 Betapack range) can be wired single-phase or three-phase with maximum load 2kW/10A per channel (two 15A sockets per channel). Single-phase, the full load would be 63A supply. Three-phase would be 20A per phase. Internal wiring is usually two channels per phase (1+2, 3+4, 5+6 probably), with the three phases bus-barred across for single phase supply. This manual is for a Zero88 Betapack1, but I suspect your Pulsar's will look mighty similar around the back: https://www.vari-lite.com/b-dam/vari-lite/discontinued-products/betapack-1/betapack-1-manual.pdf ...although some dimmers of that vintage, like the Strand Act6 packs, had to be purchased either single or three phase. So those Pulsar's might be fixed single phase.

Piece of M10 stud 90mm, M10 wing nut then normal (or thin) M10 nut (maybe star washer) to lock against the wing nut? A little bit Heath-Robinson but you could get all parts in A2 and it might be a 'relatively' cheap solution and fabrication "only" requires cutting the stud - would get 10 from a 1m length.

Not cheap but at least they exist (M10x70). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385138553098?hash=item59ac0bf10a:g:K8AAAOSwjQpjMwnP&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4HnTOYyDGwz9EpFK7O7rkugT4GnP%2BlM9Klhiz7PzL6zFpad3U%2BKEW%2B8TJTVus9tFMAnz9G00ZXXIJw5yFH25DTut6lvVgql2tZH81AhNQsFGQir2NrOEpZmUM62H%2BxcnFEvC%2FUEtK1z6CSoaHlUESAz4XaJsKm1AzQ5xB9AV%2FDKqplbYkLDwZ9Ek%2B22rMwjhPklwI6Br%2BOh6jvwc5oKd1Cryf52wDBmbjrIViZFpGpmbi5Sf%2BqbbJmVb1kMDa2fmZ7oyX%2FQqbHyMvmyY2j4F8ANDh%2BDqqHycDxYzy%2BP2Ain9|tkp%3ABFBM8OGwnchi Lots of listings for M10x60 but you wanted 70mm.

What’s tripping - an MCB or an RCD/RCBO? MCB/RCBO could be inrush. What’s the curve type? B/C/D/K? B will be very sensitive to inrush. If an RCD/RCBO, do you have lots of ‘leaky’ LEDs on the one supply?

This is essentially the same as the groups I’m with. But just don’t, amdram or not. Amazon is also not the place. (a) Do you really need reinforcement? As in do you really? Or is it just the toy they want. (b) Do what @J Pearce says. (c) Do (b) but look at some decent 2nd hand kit like Sennheiser EW G2. (d) Do (c) and build up quality kit over time. You’ll need cabling and flight cases too and beyond about 8 channels also proper antenna distribution. It seems folk these days often want to go from nothing to West End in one hop. 12 channels of mics will be hard work for the sound person and you’ll need a mixer with the capacity and capability to manage that lot. Don’t waste your money on cheap cr*p RF kit. Stay away from the 2.4GHz WiFi stuff. For new stuff the ball-park recommendation tends to be £500-£600 per channel entry level.

It makes me sad knowing such good equipment is now going to waste. When I first started seriously in amateur theatre 30 years ago, I had next to no equipment to work with and zero budget. I would beg, borrow and (not) steal old Patt23s, CCT Minuettes and Betapacks from wherever and whenever just to get a show lit. I lost count of the hours I spent cleaning and repairing old Patt luminares. Stripping down abused Patt23s to bare metal and respraying and rebuilding into once again quality fixtures. Heck I even used repaired Patt45s as backing lights and Patt237s with 150W GLS in them because that's all I could get my hands on. It's so galling to read on Reddit, young guns in schools bemoaning that they "only have 'old' Source 4s and Parnels" to work with. I wish. I've now got plenty of my own kit, including considerable numbers of LED fixtures which of course have their colour mixing, weight and power benefits. But nothing in my - and many others - budget range gives that quality (and intensity) of light you get from a properly designed traditional fixture. Is there really no local amdram that will take it and has the "old skills" to bring it back into useful application? I secretly hope that the OP finds a proper home for much of that kit. And I hope that home isn't the skip.

Now on the BBC: https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-politics-66375185

This seems to be the page/XLS. Column B has a filter where DWP can be selected. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/schedule-of-retained-eu-law#:~:text=The Retained EU Law (Revocation,easily amended%2C revoked and replaced. This page mentions the 38 pieces of REUL: https://www.hse.gov.uk/brexit/reul.htm

EW G3 and G4 beltpacks (of the same band) will work with your G2 receivers. (In case anyone else was about to comment, G2 do have pilot tone, it was the G1’s that didn’t).

Go on eBay for some EW G2 beltpacks (you might have to wait and keep an eye) and some £20-a-pop Chinese omni headsets (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304798464789). Then you can mix and match headsets, instruments, lavs, handhelds as you wish. (This is what I've set up at our local community hall). You can still get some spares, like the antennas, for the G2 beltpacks, and changing the antenna is a pretty straightforward job with one solder joint. If you really want to buy a license then with the G2 band you have, you can get 4 channels in 830-832MHz with the Shared License (reprogram the first 4 channels of the U bank with 830.000, 830.400, 830.900, 831.300). I'm sure with correct positioning those Sennheiser G2's will be far better than any second-rate stuff you can buy from CPC (because if you mount them in the same place then I bet you'll have the same, if not worse, issues).

Looks a lot like Halls T60. I use these: https://www.stagetrack.co.uk/new-products Or similar here: https://www.stage-electrics.co.uk/View/21704/doughty-t63757-10x-six-track-plain-runners / https://www.stage-electrics.co.uk/View/22318/doughty-t63756-10x-six-track-wheeled-runners-ball-raced Or: https://www.10outof10.co.uk/acatalog/Hall-Stage-0542-T60-Runner-13743.html#SID=603 / https://www.10outof10.co.uk/acatalog/Hall-Stage-2132-T60-Runner-13744.html#SID=603 Also found: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325563254663?hash=item4bcd150787:g:wbsAAOSwvDxjjIkd

I've got some. Tell me what you want measuring. PM me if you don't want to pollute this thread. However I'm sure the plastic bit is probably "quite important", keeping the switch together and holding the contacts apart! Looked for an assembly diagram for the XSW but didn't find one anywhere 😞 You used to be able to find them for the EW range in order to identify parts and order codes.

This is the tactile switch used on the bodypacks. Does the one in the handheld look anything like this? https://sennprospares.co.uk/shop/G2-G3-G4-Bodypack-SMD-Tactile-Switch-p392006652

Zero88 (Vari-Lite) ZerOS Server? https://www.vari-lite.com/global/products/zeros-server

You might want to build a darlington pair with your TIP120's to give you more current gain from your sensor to the motor. From a search of the HC-SR501 it looks like it has an internal 1k resistor on the output line, so maybe just use something small (470 ohms to 1k) in your external circuit, especially if it's struggling to drive the motor - and use a darlington pair. https://circuitdigest.com/tutorial/darlington-transistor-pair

Search for "arduino npn motor 12V" for ideas and explanations. For example https://www.instructables.com/12V-Motor-Control-With-5V-Arduino-and-NPN-Transist/

I’m sure members like Tim with lots of experience of this stuff will correct us but I think you need to at least double your battery Ah. google lead acid discharge curve. A 3.2Ah battery won’t supply 12V @3.2A for one hour then immediately 0V@0A, the voltage tails off over discharge time. You need to determine what the min voltage is for the correct operation of your device then look on the curves for how much discharge that is and scale your battery size with some margin for non ideal devices.

FLX S24 (48 fixtures, where a "fixture" can be as complex as it needs to be - from a single dimmer to a mover with lots of DMX channels) or the "full" FLX if you can stretch the budget a bit. "Unlimited" fixtures, but of course all consoles are limited by the number of DMX channels/universes supported. As you're used to syntax with the Illusion, then the "full" FLX would be the natural console for you. https://www.vari-lite.com/global/products/flx-console https://www.vari-lite.com/global/products/flx-s24 https://www.zero88.com/forum/forum/92-product-support/ No, I don't work for Zero88/Vari-lite but I do own an FLX. ETA: FLX S24 doesn't have an external monitor port if you're used to that. It does have the internal touch screen and an external monitor can be "emulated" on an iPad or similar with the ZerOS Monitor app. FLX S24 and FLX have DVI-D monitor ports.

If the dimmer was a Betapack3 (or 4) then it will have had RDM, which probably didn’t like that arrangement! Betapack1 and 2 just have the same RS485 receiver chip everything else has (plus input protection that ‘everything else’ might not have had!).

I have a sort of similar requirement I've yet to solve related to summing stereo inputs into a hearing loop and whilst maintaining the stereo pass-through. Digging around I looked at products like the following. Like me, I don't think they fully match what you need, so I'm interested what products others might suggest to solve your problem! I quite liked this for the "lack of big knobs for folk to fiddle with": https://www.thomann.de/gb/the_tracks_ds_2418.htm (Manual: https://images.static-thomann.de/pics/atg/atgdata/document/manual/c_244501_r2_en_online.pdf) (Behringer have the DS2800 which has "knobs"!). (*) This has been useful in a number of scenarios on occassion: https://www.thomann.de/gb/behringer_mx882_v2.htm For the MX882 you need to find the "proper" manual (not the QSG) which gives the signal routing diagrams so you can see if the routes you need are available. I'll have a google... Oh here we go: https://static.bhphotovideo.com/lit_files/91711.pdf Inputs are jack and phono but does have stereo and mono out: https://www.img-stageline.com/products/mixers/analogue-mixers/ulm-164-sw/ (*) ETA: Looking at this again for my application, possibly this could be done with the MX882 using the Channel inputs for all sources, panned L (main inputs not used), set into MIX mode with LINK=OFF then using Main Out L for the mixed mono send and using channel outs as feed throughs. The stereo inputs would have separate (rather than ganged) knobs, but I think this would work ok looking at the signal block diagram. For you, you could do 2 stereo keyboards through one MX882. Steer one keyboard (input channels 1&2 panned R) to Main Out R and the other (input channels 3&4 panned L) to Main Out L with channel outputs 1&2 and 3&4 as your feedthroughs to the desk. Yea there is a chance there will be a little crosstalk I guess...

The Primary Schools I've seen that have any sort of "stage lights" tend to have a Betapack or two (high up in a cupboard) with half a dozen Acclaims/Quartets/Minuettes then maybe some cheap LED washes added on top at a later date. @SamBev I think @paulears gave you an initial steer on the PC-DMX bit, but I think per the posts above (@Jivemaster et al), to give you a more complete answer we need to find out a lot more about what you've got in the way of "stage lights". This may comprise some "conventional" lights - a tungsten lamp in a housing with a lens arrangement, or you might now have some fixtures based on LED. The conventional lights, assuming the lamps are not blown, should be easy to get going, because they have one "parameter" - their intensity, or how bright they are. The LEDs can be more work because they have multiple "parameters" that can be controlled - Red/Green/Blue elements, maybe more colours, plus strobes, preset colour palettes, overall dimmer etc. This means that unless you have some documentation for them (or you can share make/model here), you have to work out how to send "instructions" to each of those parameters to get those lights to work. The more information you can provide us, the better we can respond to your question and hopefully get your rig working. (Sorry my first post was so short, I was typing on a phone at that point. Not the best!)

@SamBev maybe you could post some pictures of your install / lights / bars etc? Also is there a ‘box’ somewhere mounted on a wall or in a cupboard that might say ‘dimmer’ on it?

If the desk has an internal battery, I'd start by checking that if you're getting intermittent behaviour. @ianknight and others will be along soon...

Fab! It just needs a thorough clean now...!

Hey according to the sticker, it's a '97 build - it's nearly 21st century!