BlueClone - The Blue Room's Own Comms System

[botsdots]

I have updated my spreadsheet greatly so it has the beltpacks and the PSU and the PCB's and other stuff (I am adding that) Here is the new link: https://docs.google....RGc&usp=sharing

 

I am open to comments and thank you Hieronymus for your spreadsheet which was very helpful! So for anyone in the US, this is for you.

 

Generally, I've found that Cliff (4 pole 3.5mm jack) and Multicomp (enclosure, switches, etc.) are not available via US suppliers. I've worked to find foot-print and panel-compatible substitutes. I haven't tested these, but will be working on testing them in the near future (I have parts and boards on order, but am waiting for the boards to come in before ordering panels). Here are the subs:

SW3: C&K T107MH9ABE (Digi-key: CKN1387-ND, Mouser: 611-T107MH9ABE)

VR2: Alps RK09K1110A2S (Digi-key: N/A, Mouser: 688-RK09K1110A2S)

For VR2, I was unable to find the specified pot anywhere (even on Alps' own website)... The part listed about was the only one I could find, though it seems very similar.

[pmiller056]

Multicomp is the Farnell / CPC / Newark / Element 14 'house brand'. You should be able to get Multicomp branded items from Newark in North America.

My experience is that Multicomp parts are fairly generic and sourced from lower cost Asian manufacturers. You should be able to find a branded (but

higher cost) equivalent locally.

 

Regards

 

Peter

[botsdots]

Multicomp is the Farnell / CPC / Newark / Element 14 'house brand'. You should be able to get Multicomp branded items from Newark in North America.

My experience is that Multicomp parts are fairly generic and sourced from lower cost Asian manufacturers. You should be able to find a branded (but

higher cost) equivalent locally.

 

Regards

 

Peter

 

Thanks for the input. The parts (most of them) were indeed available from Newark, but they're shipping them across the pond which incurs international freight charges. Not bad if you sourcing parts for a whole run, but not great when you want a couple parts here or there. I'm going to try to source other parts locally and will update what I can when I find them.

 

Daniel

[Hieronymus]

Hi,

 

I was trying to figure out the difference between the BUS connection and the Hybrid out on the molex connector. Both have microphone signal mixed in, but the hybrid has it via the VR1 (50k trim). BUS includes the call signal, but hybrid out doesn't?

 

I'm almost ready for the first test. I'm also making a 'instruction manual' based on my own experience.

 

 

 

 

 

[antlear]

I would love to get my hands on these units, is anyone building them who might be able to build me some please?

 

 

Anthony

[Brian]

...and Multicomp (enclosure, switches, etc.) are not available via US suppliers.

 

That enclosure is available from a number of suppliers under their own brand. I haven't yet figured out if they are having their own extrusion struck or are buying from the master source here in the UK.

[Rob_P]

I am very keen to build a set once the design is mature. Are there still plans to commission a batch of PCBs?

[boatman]

I am very keen to build a set once the design is mature. Are there still plans to commission a batch of PCBs?

 

The design is about as mature as it's going to be, so start building. There is a minor issue with the pin-out of the 4-pole jack socket on the front panel. It was only added as an afterthought to the schematic in September last year and nobody commented or made any suggestions on the pin-out in the intervening six months (until today) so we assumed it was OK. Anyway, there seem to be solutions to the problem that has arisen.

 

The original concept was that the design should be available through the Blue-Room marketing thus providing an income stream to help finance the server. I don't have any input to that area so cannot comment further.

[Hieronymus]

For those who are curious... Í've been pushing Boatman and Brian for quite a while. With their support I'll be using the BlueCom on the 29th of this month for the Open Dutch Championships of the First Tech Challenge.

 

I've made a few silly mistakes onlong the way to get there, but I'll report all information. Hope that will help anyone build their own.

 

For easy reference, I've uploaded the pics to my Wannabee-blog. Have a look at http://www.thinkingtwist.nl/development/intercom-build-in-full-swing/

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[boatman]

Looking good.

[Hieronymus]

Hi,

 

Yesterday we had an awesome day at First Tech Challenge Open Dutch Championships. Thursday I spend a day off building 3 more comms so I could use 5 at the event. I'm very happy with the result, the sound quality and I had no issues at all. Ofcourse we allready knew that by benchtesting, but I think this is one of the first tests under 'event conditions'. The BlueCom survivied the worst thing you can throw at any system: actual users http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif

 

Even the sound&light supplier was impressed and asked me to inform him about the project and requested a quote.

 

I'll post my suggestions / feedback later this week. You can find more information on my blog:

 

http://www.thinkingt...tech-challenge/

 

(and for all the Nerds out there, yes, I was watching Dave Jones' EEVblog while soldering....)

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.thinkingtwist.nl/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/10000980_796982016989398_8288901_o-1024x768.jpg

[boatman]

Thanks for the feedback. It's great to know that it functions well in a real live event and that the gaming headsets are a success. Please let us know what you think we could improve and we'll see what is possible.

[cedd]

I too have a pair of packs now finished, with parts laid out for another 2 just as soon as I get some spare time. Once I tracked down (ha!) a faulty etching on the boards they burst in to life and are behaving very well.

 

I've shown them to a couple of people and all their comments were based on the panel layout, rather than anything else (they just seem to work, so there's very little else to say on that front!).

 

The main comment relates to the positioning and size of the PTT switch - it's quite close to the volume pot and the lever is really quite short. It proves quite difficult to operate. My intention is to drill the front panel above the PTT switch (where Hieronymus has put his headphone sockets) and fit a latching push button with a different feel to the call button. I'll leave the toggle switch in place though. Another solution would be to find a switch from the same family that maybe was just 2 pole with a longer lever and do away with the momentary function.

 

The only other thing I'm looking for is a volume knob that doesn't have a line marked on it. The position of the pot when used with an off the shelf knob means the panel legend doesn't quite tie in with the position of the pointer. My plan is to get a blank one and then mark my own line in the correct place.

 

 

 

 

I've not used them in anger yet, but they appear to behave pretty well! I had some initial buzz when touching the metal components of the xlr's, but I swapped the power supply to a more expensive linear one as opposed to a cheap Chinese switch mode wall wart and it's now fixed.

 

Cracking work guys!

Edited April 1, 2014 by cedd

[andrew.p.r]

Anyone got any recommendations of where to got some of the belt pack board made as this is not something I've looked into before.

 

More than happy with the soldering and assembly just need the boards.

 

Thanks

 

Andrew

[boatman]

I had all the prototype boards made by ITead Studio. Currently, you get 10 boards for less than $20 + delivery (even cheaper than when I got them) and very quick turnaround.

 

Link

 

PS you need to rename the Gerber files according to the ITead requirements.

 

I too have a pair of packs now finished, with parts laid out for another 2 just as soon as I get some spare time. Once I tracked down (ha!) a faulty etching on the boards they burst in to life and are behaving very well.

 

Now that we have two users (with a third on the way) it will great to get some feedback on the panel layout. We may need one more spin on both the beltpack board and panels to get it right.

 

One suggestion is twin 3.5mm stereo jacks for the front panel headset instead of the existing 4-pole jack. This will allow PC compatible headsets to be used. A stacked jack would be fine, but is rather an obscure component; so side-by-side jacks are probably going to be needed. There is a requirement for an extra 100uF capacitor so that PC compatible headsets can be used with one half of the bridge amplifier and not have a 12V DC bias on the signal. Obviously this will reduce the headset volume considerably but BR member Hieronymous has found the level OK.

 

Any other suggestions for improving the front panel layout will certainly be considered.

 

 

I do feel that the front panel LEDs on the Power Unit should be swapped so that the "Link" switch & LED are close to the edge of the panel and the "Power" LED for Loop 1 is next to the XLRs, but it works as it is and probably isn't worth the effort of changing.

 

 

Cracking work guys!

 

Thanks.