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LED tape connectors (recommendations please)


Barney

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Afternoon all,
Apologies if this has been covered before.

I need to incorporate LED (RGB) tape into flats that will have a significant number of small windows as part of the set design. These will only need a few LEDs per window, and the windows will be far enough apart so as to make continuous runs of tape (behind the flat) inefficient.

The ideal solution would be to fix suitable connections (in/out) to smaller sections of the tape, and link these together with 4-core cable cut to appropriate lengths.

Does anyone have suggestions for suitable (4-way) connectors? Solder or screw terminals would be ok, although screws maybe easier for future re-use (not critical though, as it may just be skipped afterwards).
Edit to add: Male and Female in-line connectors preferred, so they can be quickly plugged up in-situ/unplugged, rather than a 4-way terminal strip type.
Ideally nothing overly expensive as we are going to need quite a lot!
I could use choc-block but was hoping for something a bit more elegant...

Any ideas or experience appreciated.

Edit to add: There will be a couple of channels of window lighting per flat, so not all of the windows will be adjacent either.


Many thanks,
Barney
 

Edited by Barney
Clarifications.
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You can get connectors that clamp on the tape and take a solder or IDC connection for the wiring (a quick search on led tape connector threw up various versions) but TBH I just solder direct to the tape using something like 4-core burglar alarm cable if the run is short.

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JST SM is what most strip comes fitted with, needs crimping or heat shrink extension on to tails.

Wago221 for one time easy.

Never use clip on strip connectors, they fail, heat, oxidising, inconveniently.

Weipu SP 13 or 17 , personal favourite, but might not need IP 68, CPC stock them

https://cpc.farnell.com/c/cable-leads-connectors/connectors/circular-multipole-connectors/industrial-circular-connectors?product-range=sp13-series

Big list, connectors tab https://www.google.com/url?q=http://awesomeledlist.com&sa=D&source=editors&ust=1680210420741245&usg=AOvVaw0EAARNVVwBvFXGmfBzOVJ-

Edited by musht
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Is this for plugging onto each length of tape or to get power to the prop?

 

Just as Alistair says, I solder to the tape, I find proprietary tape connectors are not the most reliable and secondly I find it just as easy to solder direct as it is terminating in a connector. It sounds like you have multiple short lengths on each portion of prop and the cost and unreliability can soon build up for little or no benefit.

To connect a prop to the power source/controller pretty much any 4/5/6 pin connector will suffice as long as current limitations are observed. Things springing to mind include XLR, DIN, Bulgin 7 pin as were popular for mobile disco, Octal, 2 way radio style microphone, even RJ45.

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The Wago connectors are probably the easiest, assuming the connection only needs to be made and broken a few times for storage/repair.
Solder to the tape, strip 11mm, pop the lever up, then shove 'em in and snap shut. Rated at 20A/32A depending on UL/EN and the wire used.

Available from all electrical wholesalers. You'lI never use choc block again 😉

If it's touring, then I'd recommend 4-pin XLR or Speakon because you will be able to get spares from most hire companies.
Wagos aren't intended to be reused more than a few times.

Edited by Tomo
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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks all.

Looks like the set has been simplified somewhat, with now only a dozen or so small windows on the flats. Probably only needs to be a single control per flat now too (i.e. all LEDS on same channels), so hopefully less fiddly wiring during fit-up.

@TomHoward - Good shout on the extension cables / snip trick, will probably go down that route.


Cheers,
Barney

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When I wired up the LED windows that I was using at school I used these connectors and the extension tape to run to the DMX box.  Not sure if the will work going to another LED strip but I had some pretty long runs of the extension cable (8m+) and didn't have any issues with such a long run.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Connector-Solderless-Extension-Connection-Multicolor/dp/B09277J47Q/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2HNV9DHPI8B3S&keywords=led+tape+connector+5pin&qid=1677849881&sprefix=led+tape+connector+5pin%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

  • Upvote 1
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On 4/19/2023 at 2:25 PM, ekul1978 said:

When I wired up the LED windows that I was using at school I used these connectors and the extension tape to run to the DMX box.  Not sure if the will work going to another LED strip but I had some pretty long runs of the extension cable (8m+) and didn't have any issues with such a long run.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Connector-Solderless-Extension-Connection-Multicolor/dp/B09277J47Q/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2HNV9DHPI8B3S&keywords=led+tape+connector+5pin&qid=1677849881&sprefix=led+tape+connector+5pin%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

I've not installed any of those myself but have repaired several by removing the failed connector and soldering. Whether it's an installation issue or a faulty connector/poor design I have no idea.

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I`m gonna vote B poor design

There is a few different varieties, some with spikes some with sprung tabs, they all give up,suspect local hot spot from high resistance.

Economy minded , JST SM, tails , solder and heatshrink 0.75/1.00 mm2 for extensions

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08JV9L48T?tag=picclick02-21&linkCode=osi&th=1

Outdoors for a bit, SM with silicon grease on contacts.

https://www.satcure.co.uk/tech/silicone.htm

 

 

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19 hours ago, musht said:

I`m gonna vote B poor design

There is a few different varieties, some with spikes some with sprung tabs, they all give up,suspect local hot spot from high resistance.

Economy minded , JST SM, tails , solder and heatshrink 0.75/1.00 mm2 for extensions

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08JV9L48T?tag=picclick02-21&linkCode=osi&th=1

Outdoors for a bit, SM with silicon grease on contacts.

https://www.satcure.co.uk/tech/silicone.htm

 

 

I've not yet found a need to heatshrink the joint, however everything I've done so far has no movement of moisture issues. I'll go further and say I've always removed the HS and 100mm tails that I've encountered a few times on rolls of tape, simply to avoid having joins and it's in the way. I'd jolly soon use HS if I felt a specific requirement existed.

I've seen a guy cutting and 'peeling' the silicon back, removing some (shown in red) to allow for the wire, soldering then sticking back with what I assume is clear silicon sealant

image.png.7698b4f342b461a6cfbaa8e055f59f67.png

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Don't use the commonly available silicon sealant that stinks of vinegar as it cures. The vinegar will corrode a lot of the metal content, working its way by capiliary action along the tape for a bit. Use the type of silicon sealant that is free from Acetic Acid, sometimes known as 'neutral cure'.

 

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