LED tape connectors (recommendations please)

[sunray]

6 hours ago, pmiller056 said:

Don't use the commonly available silicon sealant that stinks of vinegar as it cures. The vinegar will corrode a lot of the metal content, working its way by capiliary action along the tape for a bit. Use the type of silicon sealant that is free from Acetic Acid, sometimes known as 'neutral cure'.

 

Indeed yes. something I'm very aware of.

I did some work in an air handling unit factory, they were using barrels of sealant  and what looked like an airline blower gun instead of tubes, it stunk to high heavens and when working inside the units could have very easily got high on the fumes. I questioned the use of it where it was making the aluminium panels go black.

[musht]

Good point ,acetoxy silicone eats copper and solder. Neutral cure is phrase that pays.

The silicone on treated strips isn`t  siicone, its a urethane, that dosen`t bond that well to the strip, IP68 strip is coated strip in a sealed silicone tube. Gluing it back down liable to be limited life.

Originally meant HS for extending SM tails, its easier than crimping SM contacts, and less failure prone unless got good crimpers.

Not convinced about the combined  heatshrink and solder sleeves for wire jointing, mebbe they`re great , but something about low melt solder and possibility of porous glue lining acting as moisture trap. 

Heatshrink and a backing aids mechanical strength attaching to strip. Designed these while back, makes soldering a doddle ,if have access to 3D printer, there`s 3 and 4 pin versions for 10mm strip:

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/4jqBcJMCbk9-3-pin-10mm-led-strip-shoe-v3

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/ilKcxm8TcLa-4-pin-10mm-led-strip-shoe

With glue lined heatshrink makes a very strong watertight join.