Neutrik D series holes

[DanSteely]

Hi all,

 

For Eddystone type die cast enclosures can you please recommend a hole saw size for D series XRL connectors, e.g. NC3FD.

 

I have used 24mm hole saws but when rear (or front) mounting there is a high amount of 'sloppiness'

 

Is a 23mm hole saw a better solution - or would it be too snug?

[timsabre]

In my opinion, for smaller holes like that a conecut or a step drill is better than a hole saw. You are never going to get a very accurate cut with a hole saw.

[sandall]

For Eddy or plastic boxes I always use a punch - a nice, neat, correct-size hole, exactly where you want it (provided you get the pilot hole more or less in the right place of course). If doing a lot of holes I might use a cone-cutter as Tim suggests, but only in a pillar-drill.

[timsabre]

I might use a cone-cutter as Tim suggests, but only in a pillar-drill.

 

Oh yes should have said that ... they are evil and a bit dangerous in a hand drill.

 

A punch is even better but quite expensive option.

 

 

 

[DanSteely]

Thanks guys.

 

I have a 24mm hole punch which also results in a less than snug fit. I need to perhaps find a 23.5mm HP.

 

Also with die cast boxes, when the holes are close together, the material between holes can fracture and fall out.

Which, if the XLR's are front loaded, you can get away with - but not if they are back loaded.

Back loading is my default preference.

 

I have a suitable cone cut and also a step drill but don't like the inconsistency even when pillar drill mounted.

 

I guess I'm comparing my results with CNC cut panels which is never going to match.

Edited April 15, 2020 by DanSteely

[dosxuk]

Just had a quick measure up here of Neutrik 3 pin male and female connectors. Both were approx 23.3mm maximum diameter from the rear. The male was approx 23.4mm diameter at the front and the female 23.6mm diameter.

[richardash1981]

Two thoughts:

1. Definitely D series XLR, not the PCB mount XLRs which are a little bit (but important bit!) smaller cut-out?

2. I found that Rapid Electronics had a much wider range of sizes of the Q-max metal punches than CPC did, including a 22.5mm one which is just right for the PCB XLRs. On the other hand my cone drill came from a CPC discount list, but it only gets used on plastic where it is much better behaved.

[canoemoose]

I have a carbide 15/16" hole saw from this Starrett series that comes out to 23.8mm and that's pretty much a perfect fit for rearmounting D-size connectors.

Use in a pillar drill!

I find it gives neater, more consistent results than even a punch, and I've used it in plastic, aluminium and steel. They're inexpensive, too - about a tenner inc VAT.

[DanSteely]

Charlie Cook from Neutrik sent me a recommendation for a 24mm Q-Max punch, with Canford as the suggested supplier.

 

I've been trying to find a website for the Q-Max brand but am struggling.

 

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

[DrV]

Cromwell.co.uk and put chassis punch into the search box

[IRW]

I might use a cone-cutter as Tim suggests, but only in a pillar-drill.

Oh yes should have said that ... they are evil and a bit dangerous in a hand drill.

 

Slightly OT, but I've only ever used cone/step bits in a hand drill, and not had a problem (as far as I can recall, I'll have always had the workpiece clamped, or otherwise immovable)...am I lucky, super careful, or havn't done enough of them to find that one that will bite me? :s

Edited April 17, 2020 by IRW

[sunray]

Slightly OT, but I've only ever used cone/step bits in a hand drill, and not had a problem (as far as I can recall, I'll have always had the workpiece clamped, or otherwise immovable)...am I lucky, super careful, or havn't done enough of them to find that one that will bite me? :s

 

A lot depends on what the work is and position etc. I've probably used them more in a hand drill than a pillar drill but I have to say the finnish is sooo much better in a pillar drill, nice and clean with crisp edges. In a hand drill there is bound to be an element of wriggle and if one isn't careful they can snatch and of course one is most likely to be working outside the drill manufacturers recommended maximum hole size.

 

I often use a 23mm Starrett which of course cuts a slightly bigger hole than stated, especially when used in a hand drill. I have 22.5 and 23.8mm punches for my hydraulic pump which fit both standard sizes quite well.

 

For any quality work I'll get the holes machined and usually engraved.

Edited April 17, 2020 by sunray

[revbobuk]

Charlie Cook from Neutrik sent me a recommendation for a 24mm Q-Max punch, with Canford as the suggested supplier.

 

I've been trying to find a website for the Q-Max brand but am struggling.

 

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

Buck and Hickman carry a wide range.

[david.elsbury]

I’ve always front mounted into holes cut at 24mm with little trouble; except sometimes it’s a little close to the mounting holes.

Have always meant to get a 15/16” bit for this, but it’s never been a priority.

I tend to drill with a handheld cordless battery drill. I’ve even used spade bits in the past with fairly good results...not that I’m proud of it! :)

Edited April 17, 2020 by david.elsbury

[alistermorton]

On a related note, whatever happened to q-max punches for panel mount IEC connectors. RS used to do them back in the jurassic period but I can never locate them these days.