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Replacing 4 pole 3.5mm jack on earbud & mic set


Bazz339

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I trashed the plug on my Dre Beats earbuds with mic and had bought a metal cased replacement

 

It is a 4 pole cable I am assuming Tip Left, Ring 1 (from tip) Right. Ring 2 Mic. Screen to shell.

 

The cable is made up of copper insulated cores and actually seems to be good quality.

 

I assumed all the red copper insulated went to tip, all the green to ring 1, white core cable to ring 2 and its screen to plug screen. Its not working, low level signal on one side only. I will check for shorts.

 

Some of the green and some of the red copper insulated was very tightly and neatly wound, some of the green and some of the red was not. I wondering whether the not neatly wound green and red copper insulated is in fact screen for the neatly wound cores and should go to screen.

 

Anyone know whether this is the case before I take the plug off and start messing with meters etc.

 

Bazz

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Nope thank you for the reply. The jack shown is standard 3.5mm stereo jack with fairly common wiring unless I missed something. Unfortunately I can't add photos etc. on the android tablet I am using (Can anyone on an android tablet?)

 

The jack I need to rewire has 4 poles: L R MIC Screen, my question relates to the specific cable I have which has very fine copper insulated wire similar to that used in coils etc. I will try and get a picture uploaded.

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I trashed the plug on my Dre Beats earbuds with mic and had bought a metal cased replacement

 

It is a 4 pole cable I am assuming Tip Left, Ring 1 (from tip) Right. Ring 2 Mic. Screen to shell.

 

I don't know if it is the same for all phones, but with an iPhone the pinout is tip is left+, ring 1 is right+, ring 2 is ground, sleeve is mic+.

 

Mac

 

LINKY

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The easy way is to just cut the plug off & check where each wire goes. The sleeve can be either mic or ground. For most phones it is mic, which can make wiring up metal plugs a bit tricky.

 

The mic will have its own screened cable, the ear-buds wires might have their own screen(s), but may just have an earth wire, as (unless the buds are fairly high-impedance) they don't really need to be screened. Some high-quality headphone leads use varnished wires, which can be a pain to solder. A tip I met in another forum is to rest the tip of the soldering-iron on an aspirin before trying to tin the wire (presumably something in hot aspirin reacts with the varnish) - it seems to work.

 

 

 

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The trick with varnished wires is to use a VERY hot iron to tin them (370ºC ish). This melts the varnish and tins in one operation. Then you use a normal temperature to solder them without melting the plug

Dave

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If it was easy to see how the termination was done on the original plug I would have. The plug has a moulded rubber cover extremely firmly attached to it. I have tried slitting it and cutting it off but it has defeated me since these earphones fit numerous different devices surely there must be a standard. The phone I have is a Samsung galaxy s2.
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I think the connector will be soldered or crimped, then placed in a mould and a soft plastic compound injected moulding the connector body into the cable and all the inside bits of the plug assembly.

The only way of getting useful info is to pare the plug apart with a scalpel, Tomography.

 

The issue is that sometimes ring 2 is ground and sometimes sleeve is ground.

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Since you can put standard headphone into pretty much any mobile phone the tip and first ring will be left and right headphones respectively. The sleeve and R2 could be either way around but what harm can be done if you choose the wrong one, the mic will work either way but may hum, the phones will not work if you choose wrong. Regarding the wires colour coding, I'd have thought red would be right phones but there is no guarantee as different manufacturers can use their own colours with impunity (I mean, who's gonna check). If they don't work try metering to find which the phones are and then you'll know which three are phones L/R/G t'other one must be mic (which will probably show open circuit to a DC test meter as it'll almost certainly be a electret).
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To clarify, It isn't the colour coding as such I am questioning, It is whether the earpiece speaker wiring may have individual returns of the same colour (Copper insulated wire remember) differentiated solely by the way the wires are wrapped, which presumably need to go to ground.
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