Lead hanger for storage

[Alec97]

Hi all

I'm looking for a way to hang my leads on a wall for storage and wondering where I can get some hangers from to simply hang a few reeled lead's on for storage. I've done a google search and I haven't come across anything yet. Basically I need a pole sticking out from the wall so I can hang coiled leads on if you are struggling to picture what I mean. I've seen them used at hire companies etc but can't find any to buy. Will be mainly hanging 13, 15, 16, 32 amp leads on as I have a tonne just lying on the floor at the moment.

Any help much appreciated :)

Thanks

Alec

[dmxlights]

I have done ones out off heavy duty shelving brackets the ones that you have an upright on the wall and then the brackets can be moved up and down and you can set the space between them as you want also put along bolt in the hole stops the cables from coming off the bracket

[ferretwrangler]

We had the local metal man build ours. We have 2 types - one sided which bolt to wall and 2 sided which are freestanding. They worked out very reasonable compared to building out of scaff or a timber equivalent which wouldn't last long. Plus they were bespoke and as such were a perfect fit for the space we had available. 10 years on they are still going strong!

[MarkPAman]

I use something a bit like this.

 

I the past I have drilled holes in the (brick) wall & stuck a length of dowel in it.

[alistermorton]

Mark beat me to the suggestion that Screwfix or B&Q do a cheap range of wall hooks that should sort you.

[Andrew Edwards]

I use various sizes of standard shelf brackets, as suggested so far. I put pipe insulation on mine to both increase the diameter of the hook and provide cushioning.

[Dave m]

spur shelving uprights and brackets will do. Good idea with the pipe foam.

 

We used to have steel louvred panels screwed to the wall, with plastic bins and rods that held reels and cables. ButI guess that must cost far in excess of what it's worth.

 

http://www.storagenstuff.co.uk/details.cfm?product=707

[the kid]

Louvred panels I have never got on with, they never seem to be great at holding the things you want without being difficult.

 

+1 Shelving and pipe lagging I used fabric innertubes though, nice thick cardboard.

Depends how much you are storing.

[WiLL]

Screwfix do a nice range of wall hooks which I've used before.

[top-cat]

You can do it out of scaff nicely. Bang a few keeclamp feet into the floor with a hilti gun and you can make a nice free standing rack using 3' pipe and 90s. It's a bit overkill for DMX but by the time you start hanging 125/3 on it it's a more sensible size.

 

I find it works nice because you can attach the cable hangars to the verticals and slide them up and down to accommodate different cables. If you buy the plastic end caps you've a nice big surface to affix a label to, too.

[jonathanhill]

If you are going down the scaffold tube route, consider using 33.7mm scaff, rather than 48.3. Kee-Klamp fittings are available for the smaller size, and are cheaper.

 

I tend to use Unistrut for cables as it is cheap, strong and easy to use. You can buy pre-made cantilever arms in various lengths. I would advise buying the end caps for the channel though, as it makes a neater job, and covers up any galvanising issues.

 

Using Kee-Klamp for (longer) lengths of big cable means that the arms can slip, in certain orientations, as you are relying on a grub screw to hold the weight. You could drill through and then bolt, but who wants to do that?. TC's suggestion of a vertical stringer to which the arms fix is a good one, as long as the top and bottom fixings are good. You can do the same thing with a length of Unistrut and still have the same flexibility whilst just fixing to the wall, rather than floor and ceiling.

[top-cat]

 

Using Kee-Klamp for (longer) lengths of big cable means that the arms can slip, in certain orientations, as you are relying on a grub screw to hold the weight. You could drill through and then bolt, but who wants to do that?. TC's suggestion of a vertical stringer to which the arms fix is a good one, as long as the top and bottom fixings are good. You can do the same thing with a length of Unistrut and still have the same flexibility whilst just fixing to the wall, rather than floor and ceiling.

 

Just to clarify, I recommend using kee clamps to attach to the floor because there's not really a better way to fix scaff to the floor. For the arms, I would recommend using pressed 90s (ie the scaffolders type) because they do up a lot tighter and are less likely to slip, but are still very easy to adjust - both in terms of height and also arm length. If needed you can also attach to the wall, kee make a good clamp for that purpose too.

 

Unistrut is a good solution too, one thing I do on unistrut is get a load of the L pieces and bolt them into the channel, then you can make dividers to easily count the number of cables on the arm. The prefab cantilevers are great for heavy cable, but for cheaper you can use 2 L pieces to run a piece of regular unistrut at a right angle.

 

+1 on the end caps, not just a galvanising thing, the end of the channel can be quite sharp on bare hands. It also gives you a flat surface to apply a label to.