cmccabe Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Hi, We are looking into painting the ceiling of our performance space. Currently it is wooden tounge and groove type boards and ideally we would like to paint it all matt black. Due to the theatrical enviroment is there a specific type of paint that is necersarry or is it down to safety recomendations. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kerry davies Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Have you read this topic; http://www.blue-room.org.uk/index.php?showtopic=35526&pid=424576&st=20entry424576 Obviously preparation will be different for different surfaces but I think Flints will do the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanSteely Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 +1 for the Flints Black paint.. Domestic paint does not compare. Fantastic stuff... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmccabe Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Thanks for your replies, Flints seem to have had good reviews all round in terms of their black paint. My main point to the question is surrounding H&S. In some places the ceiling is around 30cm from the truss, My main concern would obviously be the heat from the lanterns and fallout or sparks from pyrotechnics. Are there any implications from using paint regarding fire risk etc? Or even damage from heat? Am I potentially creating a bigger fire risk by painting the ceiling? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Some Bloke Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 As long as you stck to water-based paint rather than oil based there whouldn't be a problem. You'll be pleased to learn that Flints Theatre Black is water-based! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsabre Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 As long as you stck to water-based paint rather than oil based there whouldn't be a problem. You'll be pleased to learn that Flints Theatre Black is water-based! :) Is that really true? Surely once it's dried it's irrelevant whether it had an oil or water base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Some Bloke Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Well, I'm not a specialist in these matters but I do know that the Fire Safety Officer won't approve us using oil-based paints on stage or in the auditorium and insists on water-based throughout, so my comment was merely reflecting that guidance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbuckley Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Actually, now you mention it, we were required by the fire people to use a specific type of flame retardent paint on the wooden surfaces of our little theatre, floor, walls, and ceiling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramdram Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Well cb' nothing to stop you painting some timber sheet/t&g with your "test" sample(s) and turning a Par 64 loose on it from the 30cm mark. Bearing in mind the incidental heat "wave"(?) from a lantern is going to be "several" dB down from the full nova you should be able to get some idea about the H&S aspect. After all that's what H&S would do....and in this instance so could you. If you found the Par replicated a hot air paintstripper then at least you would be able to get some idea about what paints to avoid. Any nasty black smoke is to be avoided. If the paint survived that then the incidental heat would not be a worry. I would be more concerned about drapes than paint...I recall a castle in Windsor proved that point... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the kid Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Do most lights not come with a "distance" recommendation or is that more related to the light end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy_s Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Well cb' nothing to stop you painting some timber sheet/t&g with your "test" sample(s) and turning a Par 64 loose on it from the 30cm mark. A PAR64 at full intensity will indeed strip paint from a timber surface, but not from as far away as 30cm*. The (standard) parcan needs to be sat on its nose for quite a few seconds before the paint is soft enough to be scraped away. A short-nosed PAR64 may be quicker. However, neither is anywhere near as effective as a hot-air paint-stripper for this purpose. :P *actually, I suppose the lamp itself is about 30cm from the floor in this situation, as supported within the shell of the lantern. And the other crucial difference of course is that in normal use, hanging from a grid 30cm below the ceiling, I imagine the unit will be pointing away from the painted surface (subject of course to confirmation from the original poster) agreed, soft goods and drapery would generally be more of a concern than hard painted surfaces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kerry davies Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Time now for the boring old fart to write in and say; "Go see the fire officer." Do expect him to say ;"You use WHAT under a wooden ceiling?" when you mention pyro but stick to your guns and get his advice. Painting the ceiling with even flame retardants may not be enough for him to agree to give his blessing but only he can give adequate advice on this one. The age and condition of the timber will make a difference as will what exactly you use the space for. To add; I don't think radiant heat from a Par can is the point but convection upwards from 20 or more. May be wrong, depends on ventilation, obviously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erroneousblack Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 The stuff from Flints is the best, they just need to learn how to deliver it without one of the tins bursting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard the chandler Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Alas unfortunetly Erroneousblack we're mostly in the hands of third party carriers who shall we say won't have a uniformly high quality of 'giving a damn' amongst all of the nationwide staff. If any Flints deliveries do turn up spoilt or with obvious damage to the carton and you suspect that there may be damaged items inside please do the following. 1) sign for the package as 'damaged' or 'unchecked' or something even more discriptive such as 'massive hole in side where somebody has hit it with forklift forks' 2) Please take some pictures, don't have to be great, just something off a mobile phone will do. 3) email or phone our customer services team who'll ask for the photo and then we'll sort out some replacements for you. The stuff from Flints is the best, they just need to learn how to deliver it without one of the tins bursting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 The stuff from Flints is the best, they just need to learn how to deliver it without one of the tins bursting! Screwfix had the same problem with 5ltr tins of white emulsions. They then moved to putting the tins into heavy gauge plastic bags which at least meant your paint arrived, even if it ended up shipped 'loose'. They now no longer sell larger sized tins of paint except for collection from a trade counter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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