DMX total noobie

[Aaron-Hill07]

The other thing you need to think about is if you go for standard parcans, the replacement lamps can be expensive compared to the running costs of LED pars...

 

On your other question, You can run safely 13a per socket so if you used two sockets (one for sound, one for lighting) that'll work fine. Although you need to check how much power is supplied to your warehouse. Remember if your running backline from the same circuit it'll take more load than just sound and lighting!

 

A concurrent post has been automatically merged from this point on.

 

Oopsy, didn't proof read that one! I meant to write 4 but obviously had the number 8 on my mind..

 

Apologies, 4 will safely run as will 6 ;)

 

Glad we cleared that up! I thought I'd been missing a trick for a moment there! Isn't six a bit to close to the limit as well though?

 

Well 6 at 500w comes to 13.04a, remember that a 13a socket's maximum load isn't actually 13a, it's usually around 15-16a so 6 is absolutely fine

[Mark M]

Oh yeah of course - backline!! Hey Im glad I found you guys!! The backline we install wont be anything too great but I suppose down the road if we can persuade a "pro" bass player along or something they might bring something a lot more beafy!! Time to speak to my electrician I feel for some exact specs.

 

Oh and thanks for the info about the bulbs, I'll get it all priced up and compare the 2 although I cant see us going through too many bulbs as they will probably only be on a few times a week tops.

 

Thanks again, Mark

[shaggy555]

Yeah rigging is another thing you'll have to think about, you could have floormounted pars or put them on T-Bars in front of the stage?

 

You can happily run 8 500w traditional parcans on one 13a socket so that's not a worry

 

 

8 500w pars on 1 13amp plug!!!!

 

I make that 4000w!

 

max draw on a 13a socket at 240v is 3120w

 

Ooops! there goes the fuse!!

 

you can't change the laws of physics

[Aaron-Hill07]

Shaggy, recheck my post! I had a bit of an odd moment and wrote 8 instead of 4! Oopsy, I've edited it now though

 

Yeah the backline might not be much, but it'll still take some draw so some equations might need to be done here!

[shaggy555]

Shaggy, recheck my post! I had a bit of an odd moment and wrote 8 instead of 4! Oopsy, I've edited it now though ;)

 

Yeah the backline might not be much, but it'll still take some draw so some equations might need to be done here!

 

 

Sorry! I type too slow!!

[sleah]

Well 6 at 500w comes to 13.04a, remember that a 13a socket's maximum load isn't actually 13a, it's usually around 15-16a so 6 is absolutely fine

 

I wouldn't advocate doing that. Often cheaper 13A plugs claim to be 13A rated..... same with 4 way strips etc but probably only for very short bursts.

Not to mention that many don't actually have 13A flex on them :blink:

 

A 13A plug/socket running at or just above 13A is likely to get rather hot, especially if the contacts are slighty tarnished - you could be looking at a potential fire hazard.

 

Personally I tend to stay up to 12A for a resitive or continuous load. Sound is different as it isn't continuous in the same way as lighting.

That said, you will be under 13A if all the lamps are NOT all on at once - but can that be guarenteed???

 

Simon

[Mark M]

Thanks for the input Simon.

 

I imagine there will be occassions where the lamps are all on at once so no I wouldnt want to chance it.

 

I havent had a chance to get any pics yet as the joiner went home ill yesterday!! But I was thinking that par56 long nose loaded with 300W bulbs may be a wiser alternate? Least doing that if some of the knuckle heads* who work here decide to have a jamming session instead of counting stock and have the cans on full pelt they shouldnt be able to cause any problems.

 

*I love them all really

[Guest lightnix]

...remember that a 13a socket's maximum load isn't actually 13a, it's usually around 15-16a...

:blink:

 

 

e2a... 13A at 230V actually equals 2,990 Watts. So no, 6x 500W on a 13A socket is not really OK.

 

300W would be a wiser alternative. Not as bright as 500w - but much brighter than a sudden, unannounced blackout

[Pattern123]

Some strange discussion here, if you decide on generic why not use Par 56 Cans instead? They'll be fine for your setup and are only 300w each, so you can comfortably run 8 on one socket, and indeed one 13A plug!

 

Just for info all those of you still doing power calculations using 240v, stop it now! You should be calculating load based on 230v now, does make a difference. 6 x 500w @ 240v = 12.5A BUT 6 x 500w @ 230v = 13.04A - POP! Yes Voltage varies, and is often higher than 230v, but don't count on it!

 

Another thing people seem to have missed is that if you want LED Pars for effect. you don't even need a Desk! Most will allow you to either set them sound to light internally or set a colour via dipswitch, SOME also have 'slave to master' where they will daisychain and all do what you tell the first one to do, worth checking before you buy, doesn't seem to make much difference to price.

[boatman]

.

Just for info all those of you still doing power calculations using 240v, stop it now! You should be calculating load based on 230v now, does make a difference. 6 x 500w @ 240v = 12.5A BUT 6 x 500w @ 230v = 13.04A - POP! Yes Voltage varies, and is often higher than 230v, but don't count on it!

.

 

As has been said many times on this forum, the UK mains supply is not 230V but still 240V. The normalised specification is 230V -6%/+10% (a range of 216.2V - 253V) which replaces the UK's former specification of 240V ±6% (a range of 225.6V - 254.4V). The actual supplied voltage is still 240V. The power consumed by lamps also depends on whether you have 230V or 240V rated lamps. Running a lamp with a different voltage rating from that of the supply will make a difference.

[Hypersound]

Well my 2p would be to stick with LED units because, by the sound of things, it isn't going to be all that convenient getting to the fixtures to change lamps and I am a lazy b******d. I have some of the Thomann 36 x 1W jobbies that I think are excellent for the money. I also have some of the Showtec 24 x 1W "spot" units that are also pretty good value. You should be able to set them all to internal programmes including sound to sh....sorry I mean light and just turn one plug socket on at the wall to get them all in action. Did I mention that I am lazy?

 

HTH

Andy

[Brian]

Just for info all those of you still doing power calculations using 240v, stop it now! You should be calculating load based on 230v now, does make a difference. 6 x 500w @ 240v = 12.5A BUT 6 x 500w @ 230v = 13.04A - POP! Yes Voltage varies, and is often higher than 230v, but don't count on it!

Wrong on so many levels but for starters...

 

1) Your calculations assume that lamp loads are linear - they are not.

 

2) You seem to suggest that a fuse carrying 12.5A will not blow but 13.04A will blow it. Please go away and look at the rating curves for some fuses and learn to read what they say. These comments also hold true for MCBs.

[Pattern123]

http://www.gbaudio.co.uk/data/mains.htm

 

http://www.picotech.com/experiments/mains_...ge/results.html

 

UK Mains Voltage often drops to as low as 230V, sometimes even lower, I've seen it myself on monitoring intelligent UPS systems, it also often reaches 240 or slightly over, particularly at night. What I am saying is doing your load calculations based on 230v is safer than basing it on 240, because an increase in voltage only decreases the load in terms of amps, whereas a drop can leave your fuse heating nicely ready to go pop just as your show starts. Having seen this happen on several occasions I know which I would prefer.

[boatman]

.

.

What I am saying is doing your load calculations based on 230v is safer than basing it on 240, because an increase in voltage only decreases the load in terms of amps, whereas a drop can leave your fuse heating nicely ready to go pop just as your show starts. Having seen this happen on several occasions I know which I would prefer.

 

:blink:

 

So, you are saying that for a fixed load of tungsten lamps if the voltage increases the current drops. That is clearly rubbish and if it is not what you meant to say, then please rephrase your statement.

[paulears]

Moderation: While appreciating all the creative uses of volts, amps and watts, and interesting interpretations of common forumulii - might I point out that the topic under discussion is entitled DMX..... and the original post seems to have morphed into a electrical theory topic. Please - can we stop trying to convince each other - which won't happen - and get back to where we should be!