paulears Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 I''ve just spent over an hour soldering a new jack plug onto a pair of Sennheiser headphones. They've got that awful enamel insulation. Over the years all I have ever done is attempt to scrape the enamel off, and then try to get enough visible copper to solder to. In most cases I get a dry joint, often not even a joint at all, and it takes excess heat to get enough of a joint to work. Today it took 3 tries. Has anyone got a really simple method they use that does this more securely, both electrically and mechanically? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrg198 Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 Apply the soldering iron to it for a while and it burns the enamel away and then tin the wires and away you go. I too find those sennheiser cables a pain but I've replaced the jack plugs on my set twice with good success. The worst problem I find is removing the string from the wire to avoid burning string..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 Last time I did it, I used a gas soldering iron, and aftre stripping the cable back, I used the flame to burn off the string & insulation. [edit]I knew this had been asked before - in fact it was me that asked![/edit] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boatman Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 I''ve just spent over an hour soldering a new jack plug onto a pair of Sennheiser headphones. They've got that awful enamel insulation. Over the years all I have ever done is attempt to scrape the enamel off, and then try to get enough visible copper to solder to. In most cases I get a dry joint, often not even a joint at all, and it takes excess heat to get enough of a joint to work. Today it took 3 tries. Has anyone got a really simple method they use that does this more securely, both electrically and mechanically? The real trick is to get hold of some old fashioned Tin/Lead solder (not this RoHS compliant PbFree crap) and a pot of tip cleaner like this: http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-5/1185528/TipCleaner.jpg Unfortunately, both may be difficult to lay your hands on nowadays. Hold the end of the bare wire over the tip cleaner and put the iron on it. Hey Presto, the enamel goes away and you can solder to the copper. No, I'm giving mine away. I bought a supply 15 years ago and this is my last one. It's got to last me for a few years yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Light Console Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 I use a match, set fire to the stringy stuff inside the wires, let it burn till halfway along exposed conductors, and extinguish the flame. Then rubbing conductors with my hands, the enamel has gone. I discovered this method years ago, and it is the only reason that I carry matches in my tool kit! I think I have repaired 10 pairs of Sennheiser headphones now, so getting quite good at it! Looks like others do the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest joewhite903 Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 Hi there; just too let you know Maplin electronics still sells the tip-cleaner and Rapid do the 60/40 solder that's where I get mine from. joe Moderation: Quote snipped and tidied Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyJones Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 is this not something to go in the Wiki? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulears Posted October 16, 2007 Author Share Posted October 16, 2007 I'm glad it isn't just me then! Thanks all for these tips. Is there actually any reason for them to use this kind of stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Lewis Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 Is there actually any reason for them to use this kind of stuff? I understand that it's more flexible and will with stand repeated rough handling. The patchcords used in old GPO telephone exhanges were made of tinsel cable which was crimped at the connector. Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boswell Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 Also known as 'Lintz' wire, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lamplighter Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 Also known as 'Lintz' wire, Not so! LITZ wire is a specialised type used for winding high Q coils, though it has enameled insulated strands, but has not the high level of flexibility of tinsel.Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobbsy Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 Litz wire is also popular with the Audiophool er audiophile community, used in their over-priced inter-connect cables. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boswell Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 I first encountered it in ex-spitfire headsets, I was told at the time it was Lintz wire, Thanks to BR & a web search, I now know better, never too old to learn!! Now back On Topic <_< Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew C Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 In the past, I have crimped some solid copper wire (1mm from t&e) onto tinsel and then soldered it to PO jacks. Still a right fiddle though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinE Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 I dip the strands into flux, put a teardrop of solder on the end of the iron then stroke the wire with the iron briefly. Works every time for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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