musht

Open cell foam, UV from sunlight rots it , ozone, old age.

issue would be the lamp size as the 330 watt lamp is 56MM and the 350 watt is 58MM. 2mm is double the length of the arc in a 5r lamp, it ain't going to be bright or narrow. Beam lights really need the tiny source right in the focal point.

No where near an expert in discharge lamps, but remember 2 main variables. Voltage and Current, need the ignitor Kilo Volt strike pulse to get the arc struck, after that the ballast is limiting the Current to keep the arc stable and not melting the electrodes, Voltage is a function of keeping the Current stable,not the end product. Guessing a 350W ballast possibly will strike and run a 300W lamp but will allow it at a higher current, which may increase pressure in an already high pressure lamp, failure may be non passive.

10 years ago ,100 lumens /watt was top end ,exotic level, performance LEDs. Now 100l/W be bottom bin brightness. Then add in degradation.

Going Dark Emitting Diode, D.E.D. is most common failure mode. Either failure of single diode or joint in string or PSU failure. Fading requires the PSU/driver to live long enough. Large chunk of degradation is in first 1500 hours then slowly to 70%s at 50K hours, in extended testing in manufacturer marketing dept,er, labs. LED efficiency has leapt over last few years, even cheap is going to be bright, nice but dim for well made gear of yesteryear, like 5+ years ago... Choir in town square, mebbe battery video lights?

Agree battery of any kind needs care with handling, lot of stored energy available. Downstream of battery, the cabling and connections,been my experience that 5V has enough energy to heat things but rarely ignite them, 12V can be fast enough to heat things to melting point/ ignition before over current protection cuts the power. Not a rule , just an observation. Other way, 24V has ability to sustain an arc. 5V has its own issues with needing short runs and fat copper, voltage drop and solid grounding are real things. Unless fuse it every 0.5m , have to allow reasonable protection size per run, which may not, er, discriminate a fault from standard operating procedure. Anker have a excellent reputation for power banks, blotted copy book for their Eufy camera privacy scandal, but would expect their power banks to be close to sticker claim. Fair point that pulling 4A from 13Ah bank may not get full 13Ah runtime.

Appreciate the detailed reply ,genuinely interested in what issues people expect or experience. * I've never used them (or had to control them) so it would need a bit more effort on my part to get up and running Hardware is refreshingly simple, control integration getting idea is a problem(?), if your not running artnet/sACN natively seems an ask to add it just for some LEDs. A few controls have DMX controllable macros to call up a canned effect via DMX. * All the LEDs will need to be on at the same time in the same colour, so the added complication of pixel tape seems unnecessary (?) Pixel tape like moving lites dosen`t need to be flashing all the time, just because it can :-) If it`s 2 runs of 5M straight off the reel ,only saving a couple of cores from driver to strip over pixel, start cutting the tape into chunks and pixel is less complicated. Heavy Power and Ground looped where convenient and light Data daisy chained thru. any length... RGBW, 10m of 30/LEDs m (guess from previous spec) 5 cores of 0.5/.75 between each strip piece, double density of LED to 60/m ,10m is going to be max length before needing 5 core either end. Beyond 10m, out of this topic, but in general need to move to additional drivers or RGB/W amps to stop colour droop on long runs, pixel regenerates data itself , just needs fed power at regular intervals and most importantly a solid well connected ground reference everywhere. Bit of tie for RGBW there 😉. * I have all the RGBW LED tape and decoders etc already So do I..., it`s a bit like having racks of parcans and dimmers. Would like to say high refresh rate dimming is better, most pixels are fine even on HD cams, 16 Bit dimming , if you really need it , some pixels will do 12 bit. 4 and 5 core , lemon yellow white showing V drop, not sure entirely missing them, but they do make good colour tuneable white drivers, separate strips big diffuser, long fades, gotta find a use for them. so the only additional thing I need to get hold of is the 12V battery(s). Some of issues for 12V batteries been covered , lets have a look at 5V pixel as an alternative. 12V pixel also exists. Taking use case of 10m 30 LED/m, 5m 150 LEDs, going to guess that in single colours , 150 is going to pull less than 2.1A at 5V at acceptable brightness, even with some dimming applied. 2.1A conveniently max out on port of standard USB power bank, so 2 ports of a single USB bank, or 2 banks , grounds linked should comfortably run 10m of tape, with a well protected , long run, easily charged, long shelf life battery (lead acid of any form cannae tick any of those boxes) Price competitive https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-PowerCore-13000-Power-Bank-Black/dp/B00Z9UY65G/ Need more current on a single output, slight underrun at 4.6V but 4S (series) give a 10Ah NiMH battery ,similar money by time add battery holders https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Rechargeable-Batteries-10000mAh-4-Pack/dp/B07PHCWNH1/ 18650 Cells , 4.2 running down to 3.7V can drop below reliable operating Voltage for pixels unless its really a few. If there is a significant benefit to addressable tape in this case, I'd certainly look at it - if you have any thoughts that would be useful. Portable, low LED count, 5V pixel offers wider choice of power source with safety and less waste generated would be biggest commendation. Have to work hard to get anything 5V to go on fire. Bigger pixel counts, 12V means lot less power injection, but its only the power pair that has go round. Do not have to work hard to get 12V to start a fire. Guess I need to find some time to buy some new kit and start to play around with it! It`s not just the easier wiring and wider control possibilities, there`s more, order now and get a new set of steak knives, er, actually it`s also the more interesting range of outlines 12mm pixels, pucks , pebbles , seeds etc. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004652066637.html The impressive WLED software https://kno.wled.ge/ on a fiver ESP8266 will run artnet/sACN over wifi , up to complete ESP32 boards with onboard wired ethernet and fused power outputs , supported hardware section on site. Some 5V tape and a USB power source is everything needed to experiment.

C,mon guys, 10m of 30 led/m RGBW, (guess by current spec )and your up to 110Ah wet batteries... People aren't dancing with lead acid batteries in their pockets http://led-clothing.com/ Again ask OP if it's an issue with control that puts them off addressable LEDs? or something else?

Quick comparison on cost and power density. 7Ah SLA 2.05Kg £20 https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/1287768-7ah-12v-sealed-lead-acid-battery as mentioned won`t get the full 7Ah out of it 8Ah LFP 862g £50 https://www.amazon.co.uk/ECO-WORTHY-Rechargeable-Phosphate-Emergency-Fishfinder-8AH-Lithium-Battery/dp/B08ZSBS1ZY even a no name maker is liable to outlive SLA in any frequent drain operation. 8Ah Li Ion 600g £200 https://tracerpower.com/products/batteries/tracer-12v-8ah-lithium-polymer-battery-pack/ Top end product , can get cheaper , point is the weight difference

Lead acid, wet out question, sealed still heavy, need constant attention even in storage.Left on shelf will self discharge. NiCd /NiMh AA packs, bulky, need balanced.8-10 cells in series. Li Po, pouch cells , just don't. No mechanical or electrical protection, incendiary device that outputs power with care. Li Ion , 18650, vape batteries, on 12V still at 3 or 4 in series, want protected cells. Still need balanced. Kept and used in fire proof bags. LiFePo4 or Lithium Ferrous Phosphate,LFP, much less inclined to combust than Li Ion, get packaged battery in similar shapes to small lead acid. More expensive but easier to store. Power tool batteries, probably Li Ion but very protected, get production to hire your new set of batteries from you, converter shoes for Makita, DeWalt etc easy to find on eBay. Low voltage but very, very high current available from any type of battery, even NiCd. Have smoked a 16mm earth strap shorted across a car battery,by accident, 16mm fuse went before battery went boom. Need appropriate cable from battery to inline fuse as close to battery as possible.

In commercial lighting there is the Zhaga set of standards https://www.zhagastandard.org/ Kind of modern take on settling on lamp bases and shapes to allow compatibility. Issue is speed of development, Lumileds Luxeon Star kind of set 350mA 1W LEDs as a format early on, then they came out with flip chip Rebel , had better thermal transfer but totally different mounting. Like trying to buy an upgrade able PC mobo, by time want to upgrade processor, new ones have different socket.

Be aware with RGBW , pastels are nice but not always when really wanted pure deep blue, RGB LEDs with integrated white tend to have a bit of glow from the white phosphor portion even when off.

Draw out the wiring needed, RGB/W require 4/5 heavy lines between driver and strip and between any joins, any longer than 5m need another 5 core to other end. SK6812 ,if need RGBW , https://www.amazon.co.uk/BTF-LIGHTING-Individually-Addressable-Flexible-Waterproof/dp/B079ZWY8JT/ power pair from battery in parallel round the pieces , data line from control, daisy chained. RGBW does have a major power saving on full White , 60LEDs/m probably fit within 2A port of USB or split it into 2 x 2m on 2 ports of larger USB bank , as long as ground is linked. Use DMX from desk to cue sACN source.? Or is that the catch that puts you off pixels?

Pixel, addressable LEDs, lot,lot easier than RGB and drivers, draw out the wiring diagram.... If it's not many per truck, 300 or below, 5V and USB power bank per run, get 2A per outlet on USB. Actual current draw depends on pattern and brightness with most 5V pixels. Larger power draw, power tool battery, adapter and buck converter. Power density much higher and hassle factor lot lower than lead acid. Always go for a packaged battery solution, bare 18650 li-on take special care and feeding. Theatre Wireless RC4 think has specific pixel driver, more DIY , Wled or ESP Pixel stick. Pixels in few formats, strip, 12mm nodes and now 'seed' strings. DMX not really applicable to pixels, 170 per universe, sACN is more practical. Software, pixel mapping in Magicq, Madrix if using a lot, Enttec ELM has great mapping, Xlights is free. Big list www.awesomeledlist.com

Good point ,acetoxy silicone eats copper and solder. Neutral cure is phrase that pays. The silicone on treated strips isn`t siicone, its a urethane, that dosen`t bond that well to the strip, IP68 strip is coated strip in a sealed silicone tube. Gluing it back down liable to be limited life. Originally meant HS for extending SM tails, its easier than crimping SM contacts, and less failure prone unless got good crimpers. Not convinced about the combined heatshrink and solder sleeves for wire jointing, mebbe they`re great , but something about low melt solder and possibility of porous glue lining acting as moisture trap. Heatshrink and a backing aids mechanical strength attaching to strip. Designed these while back, makes soldering a doddle ,if have access to 3D printer, there`s 3 and 4 pin versions for 10mm strip: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/4jqBcJMCbk9-3-pin-10mm-led-strip-shoe-v3 https://www.tinkercad.com/things/ilKcxm8TcLa-4-pin-10mm-led-strip-shoe With glue lined heatshrink makes a very strong watertight join.

I`m gonna vote B : poor design There is a few different varieties, some with spikes some with sprung tabs, they all give up,suspect local hot spot from high resistance. Economy minded , JST SM, tails , solder and heatshrink 0.75/1.00 mm2 for extensions https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08JV9L48T?tag=picclick02-21&linkCode=osi&th=1 Outdoors for a bit, SM with silicon grease on contacts. https://www.satcure.co.uk/tech/silicone.htm

Anchor https://youtu.be/PI8dwPa5fvM Manchester has Guardian and London Kingsway. Big picture https://www.subbrit.org.uk/

JST SM is what most strip comes fitted with, needs crimping or heat shrink extension on to tails. Wago221 for one time easy. Never use clip on strip connectors, they fail, heat, oxidising, inconveniently. Weipu SP 13 or 17 , personal favourite, but might not need IP 68, CPC stock them https://cpc.farnell.com/c/cable-leads-connectors/connectors/circular-multipole-connectors/industrial-circular-connectors?product-range=sp13-series Big list, connectors tab https://www.google.com/url?q=http://awesomeledlist.com&sa=D&source=editors&ust=1680210420741245&usg=AOvVaw0EAARNVVwBvFXGmfBzOVJ-

'Digital Voice ' rollout resumes https://www-thisismoney-co-uk.cdn.ampproject.org/v/s/www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/bills/article-11901629/amp/BT-defies-critics-restart-rollout-controversial-digital-phones.html? Fibre terminal in the house is powered by. USB plug, so mebbe keep a USB battery handy for backup.

Afair Color Bloc was constant current driver and PSU in one box , LEDs in other. Partly to avoid CKs patents at the time, Pulsar's early stuff also has constant voltage driver/PSU split from light up bit. Can go for a long distance on slim copper between CC driver and LED, driver will compensate for V drop to keep current in loop constant. Almost only used on big 1W+ LEDs. 3/5mm LEDs more usually on Constant Voltage drivers, on 12V commonly 3 in series with a resistor, LEDs need to be close to driver or voltage drop is visible, white turns reddish towards end of strip as blue and green have higher forward voltage.

Sure other X-Power series drivers were Constant Current not Constant Voltage. 24V is kinda nominal at the output, it'll be a max actually settled to keep current in LED string constant, 350mA 1W LEDs, 700mA 3W LEDs reckon on 3.5V an LED up to limit of supply. Quite useable with high power LEDs if it works. For constant voltage LED tape and strips, DMX drivers are cheap nowadays.

Am I missing something here? • Beam angle:2°......

....watched the guy with the trench cutter in the winter just set it off, put hands in pocket to keep warm, and then every now and then, give it a kick to point it away from the kerb or walls.... City Fibre dig too deep on a railway bridge,oops https://www.edinburghnews.scotsman.com/news/transport/edinburgh-shandon-bridge-residents-and-businesses-frustrated-by-closure-of-bridge-in-ashley-terrace-4062539 Plusnet, was Force 9 then Madasafish, parent company BT, are out of the phone business, only allowed to recommend BT as a voice provider. no longer self powered phone line, Was some controversy over battery backed analogue adapters for vulnerable people, who maintains the battery.

Ah that'll be the one, phone flashes up O2 as carrier before switching to showing Giffgaff. EE was T Mobile and Orange? Bit of wall here is last 25 years of internet connection, BT copper landline socket, beside 2 Telewest phone sockets, in daze of dialup Telewest had a cheap deal on a second line, coax from Telewest/Virgin broadband, circa 2000 , emerges from floor beside them, now joined by Openreach/BT fibre box with fragile fibre connection. Waiting for 5G hardware to drop in cost...

Nip down the corner shop and get a PAYG sim with more data on it be initial reaction 😉 Just this week escaped clutches of Virgin after getting the loyal customer kicking, doubled cost after going out of contract, after a 40 minute call cue wait `retentions` had an uphill battle.. Switched to Plusnet, can`t speak highly enough about their customer service, fast to answer and empowered to get things done, on fresh fibre connection. Have BT fibre to rear of building here and City fibre, marketed by Vodafone in Edinburgh and Virgin at front. Ported geographic landline number to Vonage, because they have been around for decades. 999 location reporting can now be added, all the usual simultaneous ring on your mobile and other Voip gadgets ,again flawless service. BT`s `Digital Voice` offering is laughable. TBH Virgin connection this side of town has gone down couple of time s in heavy rain, 4G EE via GiffGaff data speed is quite usable here. Workshop in wonderful West Lothian has been connected via 4G router on 3 via Smarty for last 5 years , going by local reports its been more reliable than the BT fibre in the village it`s beside. It`s fast enough to stream HD CCTV back when needed, only significant outage was when fibre was washed out by canal banks some miles away, knocked out local cell tower for a while, repositioning router in stone building should give it a better view of available towers. GiffGaff resell EEs network but seem to be significantly cheaper on data, as far remember GiffGaff used to have one of longest time outs before disconnection on PAYG sims, handy for things like alarms that hopefully dont make many calls. Smarty is a trading name of 3 , but again seem cheaper on data, router on standard Smarty sim . 3`s network uses IP addresses that will forward so ideal for data use. Other networks may do now, but they didn`t a few years ago when mobile data sims were exotic and expensive.