p.k.roberts

We also have a stock of M5s for students and so far they've been fine - a good compromise between price and quality; but I don't think anyone has invented a truly 'student-proof' microphone yet :D

I'd recommend James Eade https://eade.uk.com/ I did the pre C&G 7909 course and can't praise it enough - 'real world' training from the guy who 'wrote the book(s)', not just a box ticking exercise.

I've been keeping an eye out for something similar for a while as well, and one thing I have found very disappointing on many LED fresnels I've looked at (and not just the budget end of the market by any means) is the poor beam shaping/cutting afforded by the barn doors. I've even seen some painted with semi-gloss black paint. So that's something else to look out for if that's important to you.

So if you were feeding tone, at full power, and if the amp produced the claimed power, you would consume 800Whrs. So 33Ahrs at 24V. Given it's a system for occasional speech use I'd reckon that a figure closer to one tenth of that would be more realistic. I wonder what the quiescent consumption is? That's kind of roughly what I was thinking - this one of those 'friend of a friend' jobs which, in retrospect, I sort of wish I wasn't involved with - I won't really know what the quiescent current is until the thing is bought - but hopefully with modern design it won't be too high. I think, given the advice, I'm leaning toward a couple of 12V gel cells in series and a 24V charger - I'm assuming that they will pretty much self-balance. Sadly that means something else to box-up!

I'm looking at a 60-100W (claimed output) amplifier in very intermittent use for about 8 hours; so it's basically whatever the quiescent current is with an occasional peak; so a low capacity 'leisure battery' should, I think, cover this. I realise that the converter adds an element of electronic complication, but the users of this system are likely to be not very technical, so the process of charging/replacing a single battery is, in this instance, likely to make it a lot more user friendly.

A bit outside my normal area this, but I've been asked to assemble a portable PA/Announcement system (think 'Adastra' mixer-amp and horns) but all of the amps and other bits I'm looking at require an external 24V supply. Rather than use a pair of 12V batteries (plus two spares), I'm considering the advantages/disadvantages of using a DC to DC converter (e.g. https://www.rapidonline.com/voltcraft-12-10-240w-in-car-charger-dc-dc-converter-24vdc-10a-55-5352) along with a single, beefier battery; reasoning this is more or less cost neutral (2 batteries instead of 4), lighter to carry and easier to charge. Seems logical to me, but I'm sure it can't be that simple - what have I missed?

You'll probably find what you need here ...... https://sound-effects.bbcrewind.co.uk/

Sadly, probably not. I have some of these dimmers at home and this is about the best you can expect. I'm sure you've already looked at the relevant section of the instructions on adjusting the minimum brightness level; https://www.varilight.co.uk/leaflets/V-Pro%20Dimmer%20Series%20Instruction%20Leaflet%20775.pdf you might be able to improve things a bit, but I don't think you're going to get smooth dimming down to zero. That's not what they are designed for.

Just had a quick look at the online manual and it doesn't look like the desk has individual channel inserts, so I'd start by wiggling L/R or Grp routing buttons, then check however the individual channel boards are connected together (back plane or ribbons?) and then move on to see if there are any socketed op-amps and half pull out and re-seat them. After that, you're probably looking at a dry joint or dead/dried out caps. Rather than trying to look for individual dry joints, it's sometimes easier to sit down with a mug of tea and Radio 4 and just re-flow the whole board.....

Thanks for the heads-up Tom. I was a huge fan of those 'Secret Life' progs, first time round - I'm settling in for a second watch now .....

I don't know how their pricing compares, but I've found Stage Electrics are good at dealing with the various hoops that educational establishments insist on them jumping through. I've found the guys on site helpful and thorough. Probably worth bearing in mind that a high proportion of schools and colleges will be trying to book an inspection over the summer holiday period, so best to book in plenty of time!

I remember trying to buy some fabric to do the same thing a while ago. I did find some and have been frantically searching for the bookmark, but frustratingly, can't find it; but what I can recall is that it was stupidly expensive and in the end I just bought some reflective fabric and some black fabric and found a friendly person with a sewing machine to put the two together.

Just trying to think around this 'challenge' - does a 'fixed' profile with a motorised zoom exist? (there seem to be a number of LED fresnels with this facility). Coupled with a TV style pole-op yoke it would seem to me that this could solve most, if not all, of the practical and cost issues. Thoughts?

If you looking for a free VST to try out, then there's a multi-band 'broadcast' jobbie here; https://vst4free.com/plugin/548/ but I would have thought that if you're trying to boost tiny voices in an ambient space (you mentioned a Nativity)then it's probably going to sound pretty grim once it's done it's job.

No argument here! In case you hadn't spotted them, there a load of old RKO movies on iPlayer at the moment which can be grabbed using 'get iplayer'

I am happy user of Plex as media server at home and although it's not a facility I use, I understand that it will act as a PVR as well. There is a list of supported tuners on this page; https://support.plex.tv/articles/225877427-supported-dvr-tuners-and-antennas/ If you already have the PC, this might be a route to consider.

This is something that we do all the time and have never had a problem with 10m HDMI cables, but HDMI connectors are not, by any means, a robust, professional connector,so I would strongly advise tying/taping/securing the HDMI lead to the camera handle and projector mount to avoid mechanical stress on the plugs and sockets. I've also found that the HDMI leads with the braided outer sleeve tend to kink less for this kind of work (although they still need some TLC to remain usable).

'Mid Range' means different things to different people; and I'm assuming that by "balance the camera in any orientation" you mean it must have pan and tilt locks (rather than portrait or landscape). As you also say that you will only reposition the camera when not recording, then a very high quality 'fluid head' would be unnecessary. So I'd be looking to ensure that a) The head is designed to carry the weight of the camera/accessories you plan to use it with, b) the tripod gives you the height range you need (it's amazing how many don't allow you to get the camera high enough to get on the eye-line of a standing adult for example) c) it has a quick release/plate for the camera 3) has a bowl mounting head and built in spirit level for fast levelling d) is a 'known' brand so that spares/repairs are possible e) if you're likely to shoot outdoors, does it have an elevated spreader (if it has a spreader at all) to keep it out of the mud. There are plenty around from Libec, Manfrotto and Sachtler that fit the bill. As a supplier, I've found Wex to be a good compromise between price and service.

I posted a link to this product in another a subject the other day - no idea as to it's efficacy though .... https://www.thomann.de/gb/micker_pro_mikrofon_sterilisator_uvs_01.htm

Unless I'm missing something here (very possible) surely any kind of UV 'sterilisation' could only be effective if there are no shadowed areas. I can't see how that would really be practical in an auditorium. I'd even be sceptical about this kind of device which I just happened upon .... https://www.thomann.de/gb/micker_pro_mikrofon_sterilisator_uvs_01.htm

Not sure if they'll work in your scenario - but I have used the various self-laminating cable labels stocked by CPC with reasonable success. I've not used this (maybe someone else has) - but it might be worth a try (and even if it doesn't do the job, it's going to be useful in your toolbox!) https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/self-amalgamating-tapes/7639059/

On the Thomann site, they do show a Varytec TV spigot adapter for the stand in question - you could fit those to the top of the stands and then bolt 28mm steel TV spigots to your half-couplers if you needed a bit more strength and 'meat' around the joint.

As has already been said, for a single audio source, feed the mixer into multiple amplifiers or multi channel amplifier (one for each 'zone' or area) and the volume in each area can then be independently controlled. If you're interested in more information, one of the other players in this field is Cloud and there is a ton of info on their website under both the 'applications' and the resource' sections. https://www.cloud.co.uk/applications

The answer is - it depends. In my experience, an open collector output is more common though. Have you managed to source a manual for your vision mixer? It should have the details in there. I had to build one of these myself fairly recently (for a little For-A Hanabi) and I used a ready made board with opt-isolated inputs and relay outputs (readily available for not much money from Electronic Bay. This protected the switcher as it was only driving the inputs of the onto-isolaters and the relay contacts on the outputs gave me a bit more choice in what I hung off the end of it. E2A; just found this .... https://www.cameratim.com/electronics/tallies/

The pin-outs listed here look like it should be a fairly simple job; https://www.shure.com/en-US/support/find-an-answer/pin-out-for-shure-bodypack-transmitters-and-preamps-ta4m-ta4f but if I read your question correctly, you only really need a phantom power adapter, and at this price, it's hardly worth the effort of making one ... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Phantom-Power-Adaptor-For-Shure-Microphone-TA4F-4pin-Mini-XLR-To-XLR-Male/331173447950?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D240992d205334b29bbac7bd62ab9fbc3%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D273948979219%26itm%3D331173447950%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWeb&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851