alistermorton

Welcome to the Blue Room. I don't think you'll get very far trying to MA2 on a pi, if that's what you mean. There are pi/Arduino projects to replace nodes, though if you already have a working node I think you'll just lose configurability by going that route. What are you trying to achieve, other than space saving?

If any workarounds exist, and I don't know of any, they'll be illegal. Do you want to put yourself and your show in that position? Best to take out a short term licence, as suggested.

Apparently it's a well known prankster by the nickname of "jarvo".

You didn't have the step rate fader set to a long fade time when you recorded, did you?

Indeed so, it seems to be being glossed over because it was "bants", a prank. I'd say some serious reviewing of security needs to be done ASAP.

@mattotone - I've just downloaded it ok, so might be worth trying again

Something like this or this is what you need. There are various types, from amazon, the bay etc or from the likes of Enttec, DMXKing, City Theatrical etc. Edit: ah, Tim beat me to it 🙂 and yes, pixel tape eats universes for breakfast.

Probably the two large screw connectors are the actual supply to the LEDs and thinner push on connector is the supply to the control circuitry. Can you get a photo of the silver label unobscured by the mains input?

Could the noise be magnetostriction from the transformer winding? I had a similar noise from a unit I built many years ago, where the coils had been hand wound and weren't perhaps as well made as they could have been.

Do you think that silver label is also giving a second output rating - below 28V 3.5A there is a partial rating - V 0.5A There looks to be a second pair of output wires just to the left of the ribbed heatsink, above the main terminal block.

XP motherboards can run the highest 2.9 series which I think is currently 2.9.3

That would have been my first guess too. If there is, and it is easy to replace, the next question is how to do a factory reset. The Strand GSX/MX mobos had a "hidden" reset button you held down during switch on to fully reset the NVRAM. Maybe this has something similar on its dip switches?

I dropped the OP a PM saying there were a lot of suggestions. Back came the reply "Which are?". I suggested checking back and getting involved with the discussions. We'll see.

Brian makes a god point - the effect I ran wasn't actually a flicker, it was more a random sequence of rapid change washes giving the effect of the screen changing on the screen. I guess a flicker might look like a screen that is showing static, that is tuned out.

At our theatre we have a young players group (8-18yrs), and they are led by an excellent actor who has worked professionally. She instils in them that it's important to listen, to do what the stage manager and crew tell them and to always be quiet when they're not actually performing and are waiting to come on. By the time the end of year (public) performance rolls around they've spent many weeks (often a whole year or more) learning with her, and she has explained to them the whys and wherefores of being in a theatre and on a stage. Having a group leader who is respected by the troupe and who is directing the performance, separate from the stage crew, helps to make things run better. That's not to say the rehearsals aren't often chaotic and frustrating to begin with, but year after year they get it right on the night, as it were.

Hi. Welocome to the Blue Room. Is the effect you're after to make the space on stage look as if it's lit by the flickering TV, or to have the screen in view and the audience actually see a flickering effect directly on the screen? If the former, the TV simulators suggested by boatman do work, but they're a bit lacking in impact. I've done this effect using a couple of really cheap LED parcans and a batten aimed around the stage from the location of the TV, with a random effect making the three fixtures jump between a bluey white (cheap cans do this particularly well) and a few greens, blues to give the impression that the room is being lit by the screen. The batten being in sections added to the effect of a moving image on screen. If the latter, we've done this sort of thing in the past by making a video clip with the required effect and sending it to the TV directly from Qlab or similar.

I've got of the logitech ones. It works OK, nothing special.

Good work, and also to Dave and Rob for the long distance guidance.

It looks to me, from that photo, as if it was indeed the right way around when both the ramps were in the same orientation. Also, the reversed connector no longer fits inside the screenprinting, which is further circumstantial evidence that it's now wrong.

Some of Chauvet's early, DJ level stuff was what you might call low quality. I have a Chauvet DJ fogger which uses standard IEC mains connectors for the remote control. The potential for misplugging is immense. Surely a company like Chauvet wouldn't do anything like that, I also thought, but then my unit is in all probability just a bought in and rebadged cheapo from a generic factory.

With the cheap and easy availability of microcontrollers (once supply chains stabilise again) and the relative ease of both DMX interfacing and analogue output, it would seem there might be a cottage industry opportunity for someone.

gafftaper on controlbooth did a mini review of it in the thread "gaff's LDI 2022 report" which might be of interest to you.

That sounds a lot like how crank cotter pins used to work on bicycles - tightening the nut (or on the stand, the clamp handle) pulled a chamfered pin inward.

Perhaps there's a ramp generator and a comparator to convert the analogue voltage to PWM?

Glad you were able to restore your desk to working condition.