Robin D

A simple answer is to leave the radio outside the bunker next to an old microphone, amp and cheapie speaker inside. You hear the call but have to go out to answer. Years ago had to do this for a cue in a show to throw in some confetti from a metal gantry that was a first class Faraday cage.

You might get away with adding some heavy sea fishing or diving weights.

Don't know the lantern so can't help specifically, but from an engineering point of view, can you not find a way to add some ballast to move the COG? May be a completely dumb idea.

Any player device is using general software, generally a locked flavour of Linux. Therefore just as likely to get software glitches and generally more difficult to update. SCS also support MIDI so you could use a key pad instead of the spacebar or even multiple keys to launch each track.

You got there before I did @Malcolm Gordon. Thanks. The only things that have tripped me up are: 1. It's easy when picking out tracks to have two or more at the same time as it does not automatically stop the playing track if you launch another unless I am not using SFR cues correctly. 2. I normally set the project up with default audio outputs when creating the show (Usually at home because I need to test before getting to a venue), but then when connecting via USB to a mixer or the like, you get no sound output. Caused me to panic 15 mins before a show went up. I ensure the USB driver was loaded into Windows, and even made it default to no avail. To fix, go into the Editor with the show file open, then click on the the very top line in the left column (The project file name). All the project settings will appear on the right as tabs. Just pick out the correct output devices, save, and away you go.

Yes. It takes a little learning. The help function is great, as is the forum... And if all that fails, as it did for me on one occasion. A support request was responded too overnight. Ps: The issue was me being in a hurry and not reading the manual properly else I would have noted that what I was trying to do wasn't available in the base version so I needed to pay for an upgrade.

I have a motorhome with limited payload and use my TS210's with a single Proel S10a selected purely on the basis of its weight. It takes a stereo pair and provides a crossover meaning it takes some of the weight off the Alto's. Incredible low level bass. My last outing had a band equipped with 2xRCF12 and 2x15's subs playing as well. They were gobsmacked at the quality of the sound from such a lightweight configuration. Nowhere the power of the RCFs but they were wayyyyyyyyyy tooooooo loud for such a small venue and consequently had lots of walkouts.

Pieces of 1/2" ply interleaved with a layers of 3/16" cut bigger and painted black or silver for the main cylinder(s). Form the crank case from six pieces of ply shaped and rounded. A couple of black levers, and some black pipe or cable to represent the HT lead. Exhaust might be more difficult but a suitable bore radiator hose carefully sprayed with chrome effect paint might do the job. Remember you are trying to get folks to suspend their disbelief, not make something perfect.

If you can afford it, I would suggest good large double conversion UPS which run on-line for your LED's. These only use the incoming power to charge the battery meaning they are decoupled from incoming spikes etc.

I would expect them to work, but suggest as always get one and try it. Make sure there is no preheat set on the dimmer. Expect a fairly sharp snap to off at the bottom end and you may have to play with the dimmer curve to get it to behave as though it were halogen. You may also find that some manufacturers work well and others don't. It's trial and error. Buy one and then buy plenty of the one that works best so you have a few spares.

I would still try a terminator first. One of my dimmer packs is supposed to internally terminate but doesn't. It was at the end of a line and fitting a terminator in the DMX output solved the flicker from upstream LED PAR's.

If this is a show, it's also possible that the existing lighting desk could make a light flicker and set off the vibration which would give good control over timing. Alexa has it's place but not in a theatre as far as I am concerned. Make sure you discuss with your technical people, You may find solutions already exist.

Lots of other brands lost their way under Rank. Leak, Wharfedale, Bell and Howell, Bush Radio come to mind as well as Strand. Sure there were others.

I had similar problems trying to connect a camcorder that only had FireWire output for capture. Needed to copy some old tapes. Fortunately my 15 year-old tower still alternatively boots into Windows 7 and has on-board 1394 chipset. Everything else I tried as a convertor did not work. Running the tower with Red Hat Linux did not work either.

Have you tried asking MLEC. I have always found them helpful. Even if they don't stock it, they may be able give you the correct name or search term.

Difficult to disagree with most of the advice here although I would take a different approach assuming most of the extra hours are voluntary. I would talk to the drama teacher and offer to go though the next show with them side by side so that they at least get a chance to learn what is required. If you get rebuffed, so be it, but suspect you are more likely to get your offer snapped up. Make sure you point out that you are only doing it for the kids, you will have nothing to do with external hires, and you need at least a clear week or whatever before the show with no external hires that need the equipment. That way you can sit back and either enjoy the show with a completely clear conscience, or, should the show fail or get cancelled, that you have done all you can. Sadly if it comes to it "I told you so" will give you zero personal satisfaction.

Best I had was volunteering at a school. They were a fair bit of kit short to make the show go well including a large mixer and some specific lighting. I offered to supply install operate and retrieve my gear afterwards for free. The Admin Manager kept insisting she would have to get two other quotes, and anyway, my company (actually an I T consultancy!) was not on the preferred supplier list! Fortunately the head had the nous to overrule her. I still shake my head at the logic!

Ditto with Viking Lighting especially when the whole package is reviewed rather than just specific devices

I have just set up this exact scenario for an event next week. Laptop HDMI to a HDMI splitter and take a lead to each external screen. Windows only sees 1 additional screen so the main TV display used for audience, and a Samsung 16" being used as the monitor. The presenter view is on the laptop. Seems to work just fine in test including playing embedded video links that have caused me angst in the past on extended display. The splitter is a 4k unit I picked up in Maplins closing down sale.

Ditto. I have a Gmail account anyway.

Not in this environment (retail and distribution) but my 'go to' label company before retirement was Sato UK based at Harwich. They do a large range of printers printing onto many sizes and types of label stock with a huge variation in adhesives. Certainly 5-6 years ago they were considerably more helpful and cheaper than Avery Berkel, Brother or Toshiba. Certainly worth a call IMHO. Note that all these supply solutions and ask you to commit to purchase labels from them for a period. However, if you use a 'standard' size unprinted stock with one of about 4 levels of tack, you can then source the stock from many on-line label suppliers. Have something made to spec, the number of labels you need to order and commit to is very high. Remembers also that self adhesive labels deteriorate over time so some takes have a life of only a year or so before they cannot be used. I have no other interest in Sato other than as a direct customer for for about 20 years and as a company I was happy to recommend to clients as a consultant for another decade or thereabouts. My contacts in 2015 were Emma Male and Mark Morters I think.

I bought one of These some years ago and it's been faultless used 2-4 times a year. I couldn't justify spending then £120 or more out of my pocket.

What sort of microphones are you after. A couple of vocal mics, probably worth buying. 12 radio mics with headsets, antenna, licences etc best to hire.

The biggest issue is clearing UK customs. I just had to order a just over 5 Euro spare part which was despatched by tracked post the same day and left by air arriving Heathrow next day. It hit the customs hall at Langley at 10:02 on 28th March where it sat until Saturday the 5th finally delivered yesterday. Good old British red tape at its best. Thanks Brexit. However, I ordered a product from them last month which arrived two days later!

With the mixer disconnected. Uninstall the software. Windows key, device manager. Look at all Sound and USB entries and delete all entries relating to Yamaha, DME, LS9 etc. REBOOT twice. Then reconnect and let it find the hardware. It may come up 'unable to detect USB device' or similar. Sorry, don't have a Windows machine In front of me, so working from memory Then reinstall the software.