adam2

I have used a king size sheet as a back projection screen, it worked fine. There is presumably some loss of image brightness if compared to a purpose made back projection screen, but for a non critical application it works fine. Use the sheet on your bed afterwards. If a king size sheet is not big enough, several suppliers offer similar material in almost unlimited lengths.

Yet another delay has been announced, and another debut act cancelled. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-manchester-68937492. Very poor. Reported to be due to a "technical issue" My personal suspicion is that over complication and over computerisation is probably to blame.

The lamp rating is most unlikely to be that critical. It must not introduce significant voltage drop in normal operation, a six or twelve volt lamp will only drop a volt or so if glowing dimly. The current rating must be large enough to not blow during operation, but to blow fairly reliably under fault conditions.

I suspect that the lamps may be of a standard rating. To solder or spot weld wires to an already existing standard type of lamp is trivial, To manufacture a non standard rating of lamp is more involved and expensive. If anyone has an intact example it should be possible to determine the rating by experiment. Connect the lamp to a variable voltage power supply and adjust the voltage until the lamp lights at a reasonable intensity and colour temperature for a small incandescent lamp, measure the current drawn at this voltage.

For a true blacklight, with minimum visible light I would recommend UV blacklight fluorescent tubes as these give more UV and less visible light. Be sure to obtain the correct blacklight tubes, the ones that look black when not lit. Do not use other lamps intended for sun tanning, insect killers, printing, or water treatment. UV LEDs are still not a match for blacklight tubes. Four foot is the most common size but others exist. They operate in standard fittings. Blacklight CFLs are also available and are a bit more limited in output but are easier to store and transport.

Do terrorists actually detonate bombs by ringing a cellphone attached thereto ? There would seem to be a significant risk of premature explosion due to a wrong number or a marketing call, and also some risk of not detonating when "told to" due to lack of a signal. I understood that the "alarm clock" feature found om most phones was used, this requires no signal. BTW, Friends in Scotland, near Stonehaven had a TWO WEEK power failure during storm Arwen, and several shorter power cuts. No cellphone or land line telephone service was available during these events. No harm resulted but it could have ended very badly in the event of fire or sudden illness. They had electricity from a standby generator, which ran for 15 days, continually.

Latest news, armourer sentenced to 18 months in prison. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-68819796

To add to the points already made, note that incandescent lamps are very sensitive to variations in supply voltage. At 220 volts they will be significantly dimmer than at 250 volts, and both these voltages are within the expected and permitted range. I have seen as low as 200 volts at the lantern, that will give a decidedly inferior light with incandescent. LED lanterns by contrast use a regulated power supply and will give constant light at any reasonable voltage. LEDs will therefore seem much better in comparison with incandescent in a venue with a low supply voltage than in one with a generous voltage.

As others have said, it might be worth accepting the risks of breakage. (In the event that breakage occurs, clear up the bits AT THE TIME as earlier described, and thoroughly vacuum clean the area before the next performance) If however further protection against against breakage is considered essential, then this may be achieved as follows. Coat one side of the article in Copydex or similar flexible adhesive. Before the adhesive dries, affix a suitably sized piece of mesh or scrim, then brush another layer of adhesive over the scrim. Do this on the least seen surface of the article, probably the inside of cups and the underside of saucers or plates. The articles can still be broken, but the pieces remain attached to each other, with minimum risk of sharp pieces scattering.

If power is reasonable, consider cheap industrial halogen floodlights as used on building sites. 12 lights each of 500 watts should suffice, and may be powered from a couple of 13 amp sockets, NOT one twin socket, and preferably not on the same circuit. they are very cheap to replace if lost or damaged, and light in weight which simplifies mounting. As others have said, be prepared for bad/random behaviour by both spectators and talent.

ISTR that the preferred or official shade of blue in the French flag was recently changed. The old blue was a bright blue similar similar to that used in the EU flag, the new blue is darker and more like a navy blue. Actual flags flown on public buildings seem to vary a lot. I doubt that the exact colour matters much provided that is easily recognised as a French flag

If the O/P IS in Japan, and the later post that refers to 100 volt circuits strongly suggests this, then that is another reason to go LED. The market for 100 volt incandescent lamps was always rather limited, much smaller than the market for 120 volt or for 230 volts. Japan is the only major country that uses 100 volts. Lamp supplies are therefore likely to dry up before the more common voltages. Most multi voltage LED lanterns will operate down to 90 volts (100 volt nominal supply, at about 95% of nominal, less about 5% voltage drop in the fixed wiring and in extension leads) An LED fixture should give full output down to 90 volts, a 100 volt incandescent lamp run at 90 volts will give about half light output.

a very simple possible cure would be to replace a couple of the 1 watt LED lamps with incandescent lamps, whilst one lamp would probably do, two gives redundancy against one lamp failing. Use of a lantern using hundreds of watts is rather wasteful, esp at todays electricity prices. Or as already suggested, an incandescent 60 watt lamp somewhere out of sight.

A two pin Euro plug suggests 220/230 volts, but do not count on this. Preferably seek confirmation from the supplier as to supply voltage, if not available then try 110/115/120 volts first. If it works correctly dont use 220/230 volts. An led array might well be multivoltage but do not count on this

For a tungsten lamp operated at full power, simply multiply the load in kilowats by the operating time in hours to get the total energy consumed in KWH. For example 12 kw of lamps used for 3 hours will be 36 kwh consumed. Multiply this consumption by the price that you pay per unit, in order to get the expense, for example 36 kwh consumed at 40 pence per unit will be 1440 pence, or £14-40. This ignores the standing charge which is reasonable since that is payable whether or not the lighting is used. Lamp replacement costs are extra. For lamps used on a dimmer the position is more complex, I would calulate asabove, and then deduct say 25%