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Afixing Safety Bonds to Lanterns...


Stu

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Dear All,

 

In recent months I am noticing that some of my safety bonds/chains go walkies at any given oppertunity, so I'm looking to afix them to our lanterns using something more permanent than black cable ties.

 

What I would like to do ideally is something along the lines of SLX/WL etc and pass the bond round the yoke, give it enough slack to be able to move still, and then clip both sides back together. I presume it's something to do with crimping, but can anyone let me know how best to go about it?

 

This pic shows basically what I'm on about

http://www.doughty-engineering.co.uk/theatre/products/photo/T28300.jpg

with the yoke being in the small loop. Obviously I could get these, but I just want to be able to use the multidude of ones we have in house.

 

Cheers,

Stu

 

PS. Then all that I'd need is to stop the m10 washers and splits going walkies too!

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with wire rope bonds unbolt 1 leg of the yoke and slide it throw bond bolt back together

 

most company do not do any crimping of bonds as they would require testing so they are as purchased

 

Hope this Helps

Em

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We use the old chain style, noone wants to halfinch that for some reason :) It stops the hire company our drama teacher uses from making off with all the safety bonds at the end of the show when they collect their stuff.
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We use the old chain style, noone wants to halfinch that for some reason :)

 

I'm pretty sure the law is changing in a couple of years to make the chain style safeties illegal. It'll all be wire rope bonds after that.

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what we do in the "dramabarn" at york uni is cable tie them onto each lantern in a way that makes sure it goes through the secondary attachment point when its used (to make sure people don't just secondary attach with the cable-tie!)

 

re chains: I'm not sure they're becoming illegal, though I have heard rumours of it, it is however recommended to use safety wires now

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If you unbolt the yoke (from the side of the lantern), and slide the loop of a normal safety onto the yoke, then just replace the yoke and you're done.

 

The only problem I can see this creating is that people may 'choke' the bar with the safety, which I've heard shouldn't be done. You should, however, be able to avoid this by still connecting the 'clip' to the loop.

 

Tom

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If you unbolt the yoke (from the side of the lantern), and slide the loop of a normal safety onto the yoke, then just replace the yoke and you're done.

 

This is the most common method I have witnessed on kit touring in. :blink:

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If you unbolt the yoke (from the side of the lantern), and slide the loop of a normal safety onto the yoke, then just replace the yoke and you're done.

Yeah this is a valid option for the few S4s we have kicking about, or Pars but I'm mostly looking to do this to our stock of 40 SLs which the loop on the existing bonds is just not quite big enough to make it round the bottom of the yoke assembely. I could go out and get some new Doughty ones which a nice soft loop, or bigger - but I would far prefer to spend money on other stuff I desperately need over and above new bonds I already have!

 

I shall get there - without the aid of cable ties. Hehe :blink: I might have to ring WL or SLX and bug them as to how they do it, I have certainly had a fair amount of toured lanterns coming in bonded up as I described in the first message.

 

Stu

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There's nothing wrong with using the cable ties, as long as they're done in a way that means they're not going to take any weight. Although they're just easy to cut off as they are to get on, don't look as tidy, and they're a ******* when you cut your hand on one you've just snipped the excess off! :blink:
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In recent months I am noticing that some of my safety bonds/chains go walkies at any given oppertunity, so I'm looking to afix them to our lanterns using something more permanent than black cable ties.

Stainless steel cable ties?

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they're a ******* when you cut your hand on one you've just snipped the excess off! :blink:

My solution: take a sharp pair of sidecutters with a small blade (here, I use transistor leg snips) and cut right at the base, paralell to the tie. It makes the cut edge flush with the clippy-bit.

The "proper" way to do this is use a cable tie gun like you can get from RS/Farnell etc. These cut the end far flusher than a pair of sidecutters will. Unfortunately they're not cheap. ;)

 

Someone once told me it was a rule within BT that you had to use a gun on your cable ties. Can anyone verify this?

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