Robust HDMI connections

[Robin D]

Issue is a village hall cinema system. All works well, but the DVD player and amp is in a rack on wheels and stored in a secure place. This gets wheeled out, connected to the speakers (no issues with this) and a flying HDMI cable from the projector is then inserted into the HDMI port on the amp. I'm getting very concerned that the connector will fail. We've already had to replace the HDMI lead once with a more robust screened one. The lead is now looking good, but the amp HDMI output socket is beginning to show signs of strain.

 

Any thoughts on how best to solve this. No budget, but if the committee need to spend more to avoid problems, they will (within limits). The best I've been able to come up with so far is a HDMI distribution amp with multiple outputs, so when one fails we move to the next, but there must be better solutions out there.

 

Moving the HDMI lead to the secure location is not an option as it would be well outside max HDMI range.

 

Just hoping the collecting power of BR will come up with a simple and low cost solution.

[DrummerJonny]

How about a Panel Mount HDMI Connector on each end, connected to each piece of equipment with a trailing lead inside the rack?

 

Would cut down on uses of the connectors on the devices, and are cheaply replacable if they do fail.

[bruce]

Agree - a panel mounted extension would be sensible.

 

An alternative might be to use a short flying lead extension like http://cpc.farnell.com/cable-power/cphd007-1m/lead-hdmi-extension-1m/dp/AV25021

[Jivemaster]

Treat it as a touring rack and bring all the connections out to panel mount fittings that take the strain off sundry fittings on the back of the units.

[Joe Fernand]

As others have suggested a panel mount in the rack would be a good start - the 'too short' HDMI cable is likely to fail again, the heavier the gauge of cable stock the more readily the connectors 'fall' off.

 

For long term reliability I'd be suggesting running a CAT6 cable and adding in an HDBT extender set between the Amp and the Projector - with a short, flexible HDMI cable between the AV Amp and the HDBT Transmitter.

 

Joe

[Jivemaster]

Optimally I'd look to fit a short HDMI lead from the player to the back panel of the rack, AND to terminate the installed flying lead inside a box in the wall, then join both fixed connectors with a semi disposable short lead, the loose lead being easy to replace and the short internal lead in the rack being simple to replace with tools, this way the likely damage points are on disposable cables not on the player. Sadly the additional connectors may impair the signal, but not as much as killing the player.

[Robin D]

Many thanks for the replies. I'll look at the cat5 option.

[Jivemaster]

Whatever the connector and cable you need to consider that the connector on the back of the player is the most expensive thing to break so it needs protecting from stray forces. Most suggestions involved having a short and cheap sacrificial cable and connector, total cost less than £10.

[Robin D]

Thanks again Jivemaster.

 

The Cat5/6 option is going to be expensive as we need to get someone to run in the cable. Going with the short extender has to be the way forward.

[Joe Fernand]

'Going with the short extender has to be the way forward' - give it a decent test at all required resolution/refresh rates before you assume it will work, too many breaks in the HDMI cable run can cause issues at times.

Joe