Jump to content

Timber floor finishes


richard

Recommended Posts

Hello all

 

I am currently in the process of spec'ing a timber floor for a new performance space/events space. The client is for this to be a light european oak (let's not get into a discussion about light floors in a performance space though..)

 

We are being advised by the floor supplier (this will be a sprung solid timber floor) that the best finish would be an oiled floor- this they feel is the best in terms of showing scratches, and also for cleaning if stuff is spilt on it (wine etc). However we know of some places where an oiled floor has stained badly so has been sanded then lacquered.

 

Does anyone on here have any experience on which has worked/hasn't worked?

 

Thanks

 

Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

probably not an issue here but we had a space with a sprung floor (had been a gym at one point) and the seats were by Auditoria and folded up to make big 50 seat blocks on wheels.

 

They would split the floor with amazing regularity and the wheels would drop through the floor.

They were a nightmare.

 

The floor was an existing one, and no-one agreed about who's fault the seats were.

 

Just saying that you need to ensure the floor is strong enough!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The pros and cons of oil versus varnish:

An oil finish looks great, a soft satin sheen which is a good dance surface, being not too slippery. However it gives very little protection to the wood from scratching or staining, particularly if it hasn't been re-oiled in a while. Under heavy use the floor will need to be re-oiled at least 6 times a year, moderate use 3 times, light use once a year. The oiling isn't a hard process but will take normally 8 hours of drying/soaking in time. If a floor hasn't been oiled in a while it will allow wine or other staining substances to seep into the grain, once that has happened you will need to sand the stain back and re-oil. The benefit to that though is that once you've done it, the sanded and oiled patch will be identical to the rest of the floor and blend in perfectly.

A varnished floor provides a hard layer over the wood which will stop stains getting into the grain meaning they can be cleaned off easily, it will scratch, even the toughest varnishes scratch eventually and you may find you have to sand back the entire floor and revarnish to eliminate said scratch. However once applied, and if it doesn't get damaged you wouldn't need to reapply the varnish for around 3 years under heavy use, 5 with moderate and 7-10 with light.

Basically your choice depends on how much maintenance you want to be doing on the floor over the course of a year. Maybe get the install company to quote for a maintenance contract as well?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats good advice by Will. I have used Osmo oil for the floors in my house and also the floor of my wife's Pilates studio. The wood looks amazing - the oil give the wood a lovely rich sheen and emphasises its colour, making it a wee bit darker. Now these places do not get heavy traffic or equipment wheeled across them and an oiled finish is probably not as tough as varnish. It does look nicer though, and I can vouch for the fact that it does resist wine stains (my house, not the studio)

I did the studio floor six years ago and have not had to touch it since. Traffic there consists only of bare and socked feet though. YMMV

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't remember what we had I think it was possibly a lacquer finish, after several years hard abuse by other people I called up the supplier who said they were never asked to come back and re-do it.

 

I believe the "usual" thing with lacquer is to have it taken back every year for 5 years to build up layers so it becomes harder and better. Obviously a big task to do but my understanding is that is what makes it GOOD. Same principle as sports halls years and years of lacquer makes them rock solid.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I should add that if you are considering the Osma oil, then bear in mind that they have two types - the standard one which does indeed take 8 hours to dry, and the quick drying one. I used the quick one for my house and I dont think the finish is as good.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.