pete10uk Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 Moning all This one is an easy one. I have the need to drill 50 Neutrik connectors in to plastic cases. I'm after an easy way of doing this with uniformity, i.e. I want to mark a straight centre line with the the desired spacing (unfortunately not the same as pre drilled 19"rack adaptors) and would like them all to line up exactly. Any tips on this or tools to help? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Wiles Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 HiWe use these.....although with plastic, there will be some bending of the plastic (depending how dense the plastic is) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew.p.r Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 HiWe use these.....although with plastic, there will be some bending of the plastic (depending how dense the plastic is) I've also used these on plastic with good results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Wiles Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 and far neater than with normal hole cutters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete10uk Posted June 28, 2013 Author Share Posted June 28, 2013 This looks just the job. I've made a prototype in a peli case which is the plastic in question using a standard hole cutter but even though I've taken care the holes always seem to be slightly off centre from each other making it look slightly home made. Not sure if these cutters will handle the Peli plastic as it is quite thick, but will give it a go. Cheers, any further suggestions welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 Make yourself a 1:1 drawing of all the holes, with centres marked, and print it out 1:1Stick it into positionDrill the centre of each hole with a small, ie around 2mm, drill bit using either a pillar drill or a hand drillOpen up each hole to the final size using a normal twist drill for the fixing holes and a step drill for the XLR body Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete10uk Posted June 28, 2013 Author Share Posted June 28, 2013 Make yourself a 1:1 drawing of all the holes, with centres marked, and print it out 1:1Stick it into positionDrill the centre of each hole with a small, ie around 2mm, drill bit using either a pillar drill or a hand drillOpen up each hole to the final size using a normal twist drill for the fixing holes and a step drill for the XLR body I've got the hole centres perfect so the template isn't requited, it's the transformation from small centred hole to large hole where the variation comes in, I'll try a step cutter, I have tried a standard cone cutter without the steps and getting all holes exactly the same size is where the issue comes in. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 I have tried a standard cone cutter without the steps ...Cone cutters will drift off-centre unless you stop them by clamping the workpiece and using a pillar drill. A hand-held drill and free-range workpiece is possibly the worst combination. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulears Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 I tend to make up a drawing like Brian says, but do three sockets with the right spacing, then drill it into some scrap ali or steel. Then lay this on the panel to drill the centre holes AND the mounting holes. I then drop the bolts in to align the next holes, drill, and then move across the panel. I sometimes (if I have quite a few to do) clamp another bit of metal across to allow the template to slid along - which keeps the holes all absolutely level, and speeds up the drilling no end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lampygirl Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 HiWe use these.....although with plastic, there will be some bending of the plastic (depending how dense the plastic is) Another +1 for these. Used extensively for 'maplin project box' style creations, both for panel connectors such as the neutriks and also as power entry for things like LED arrays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkPAman Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 I find the Q-Max usually gives a better finish than the step drill, but both have their uses. If you're not already aware of it, this product saves a lot of faffing around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musht Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 Bi metal holesaws, as long as work and drill aren`t wobbling, finish is as good as a q-max http://www.starrett.co.uk/shop/holesaws/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alistermorton Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 Bi metal holesaws, as long as work and drill aren`t wobbling, finish is as good as a q-max http://www.starrett..../shop/holesaws/ Yeah, used those myself - very effective in steel or ali cabinets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobbsy Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 Best investment we ever made at the last place I worked was a sheet metal punch for which we gradually built up a collection of dies. Highly recommended as a solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allanr Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 If you're not already aware of it, this product saves a lot of faffing around. This Neutrik fixing plate is indeed very useful and available from CPC as part number AV18095 for 26p ea. AllanR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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