pete10uk

Hi All I find my self in a tight spot because of a customer mixup with 5.1 surround sound and multitrack. Looking for a solution where I can playback 6 tracks at the same time but route them to 6 independent speakers. Customer has 6 files I would ideally trigger via physical contact closure or udp command. just need to trigger the same 6 files from a PIR every time someone walks through a corridor for a month. Any advise would be gratefully received, Needs to be as simple as possible and available quite quickly. Many thanks

Thanks both for your suggestions. I think the matrox suggestion from DMXlights could do something but couldn’t find anything about rotated screens. What we’re looking at is 6 screens so would fit into the output count of a single unit. I’ll have a dig a bit further thanks. Eamon I’ve already considered your approach, I’m a big user of brightsigns and while it would be possible to achieve the finished look with multiple sync’s units, the content would need to be created for each screen independently. I think this would be a haste for the end client on this occasion. I’m sure I’ve seen a product but for the life of me can’t remember the brand or kit. It was a hardware transmitter which accepted a 4K image and each screen had a receiver which could be programmed to take a piece of the 4K image in any aspect, orientation or resolution. A google hasn’t found anything but that’s probably because I don’t know what to search for. thanks again

Been asked to achieve similar to the attached image. Over the years I have seek kit to do it but not current by any stretch. What kit am I looking into in the current climate? Thanks

Brightsigns are the way to go to meet the reliability need, once programmed up they run for years never missing a beat. I don’t know OSC but certain models work on GPIO, you can get them to fire on ip commands also but can’t remember the actual method. Certainly will work on GPIO I’ve just set one up for Halloween at home but depends on the number of triggers you need.

https://www.gear4music.com/PA-DJ-and-Lighting/dbx-DJdi-Two-Channel-Passive-DI-Box/1GXF?origin=product-ads&gclid=CjwKCAjwzt6LBhBeEiwAbPGOgW8-AhxsyypaeX18QYlsy69e5nw1iHmiGqp7vRvdRKfGJQiwfG5PNhoCQzYQAvD_BwE Here is what I use. Passive, good quality and rugged.

Are you going through a DI on the audio feed.? Sometimes you just get a buzz for no apparent reason and 90% of the time a DI fixes it.

Can you see from the AF meters if the cracks are coming from the tx or rx? I’d try different cables and into different equipment. I’ve never heard or seen of any time based issues. Any issues have been down to lose / old cabling and movement or broken aerials.

Not familiar with settings to change the battery type on the G3’s I use standard rechargeable AA batteries and never had an issue, never seen the point of the BA2015 batteries as they look like bits of plastic with 2 standard AA’s in them but 10x the cost. I’d check your mic terminals and make sure they are not damaged at all.

Being away from the audience is not ideal, in that situation I have just used cans. It doesn’t let you monitor exactly what the sound is like in the room, I don’t think there is a good substitute for that but it will let you monitor the input into the room, if that’s a bad mix to start with, I can’t see the room being any good.

Interesting thought. I’ve had a pair of sc140 for a good number of years and always been happy with them. As with you not highly used but useful when needed. I would expect the sc600 are a similar story but I’m looking forward to other suggestions.

Thanks for the answers. Not sure what a separate controller brings, am I missing something? Pete, the 2 sets are made about 3 months apart, they are identical in manufacture and chip set but the consensus is the leds will be a different batch. I think I’ll be getting them as they are identical, at best I’ll be able to combine them at worst I’ll end up with tow walls the same. Have you experience in using a camera? If so what have you used. Only experience I have is with one we used for balancing thin bezel Samsung walls, but er never had success with it, spent an hour calibrating and it was better before. Thanks again

Does anyone have real life experience in colour balancing different LED batches? We're using Novastar MRV 328 receiving cards which say you can batch correct, I've been offered some used panels identical to the set were using which I would like to use to create a larger screen format, but don't want it forever more to look rubbish. Is batch correction a realistic option and how hard is it to achieve? Thanks in advance.

I don’t know enough about usb but I would say most applications requiring wireless capabilities are probably on the lower side of data requirements, or at least they should be, if your trying to use a usb-c sd hd wirelessly, you deserve all that wireless throws at you. I was hoping I could get it to work easily with hardware like I can with full hd video. Barco clickshare do wireless usb for webcams on the cx30 units and above, not sure if it would work for general usb and I don’t fancy the £2.5k price tag. I guess it. 20m active cable or seeing if a wifi router with usb works! Thanks for the input.

I gues this must have been done before but I can’t find an answer. I’m looking and find it hard to believe that it doesn’t exist, however I’m having difficulty finding something. I’m looking for a hardware wireless usb extender. 15-20m range and ideally usb powered. Just looking to be able to take a laptop foh to colour balance a video wall with out running a long cable or moving the processor to do it. There is budget, looking for an easy plug and play suggestion. Thanks

IPA from cpc has always been good for me. Going forward use a good quality low tack gaffs to avoid the situation again. I use a brand called advanced.

Thanks all for the responses on this one. Just for the benefit of anyone else who ends up here with the same issue, I have now resolved this problem. the LED modules from the factory have had their ribbon cable connection installed the wrong way around. On close inspection I could see some spraining on the connecter where the key had been jammed in the wrong way around on the sender card. I tried this and it fixed the issue on both the Linsn and the Novastar kit. What was confusing was the fix I.e the cable reversal was done on the receiver card, but the issue was on the modules.

Point taken, what they want to achieve is a person stood looking at piece can hear audio which no one else can. Given that this is a gallery which is quiet, I know personally this can't really be fully achieved, but in the art world this seems to be a thing!

I’ve been asked to look at installing some directional speakers in an art gallery. I’ve seen the plastic domes before but I don’t think that is what they are after. They have mentioned sound shower or an alternative, ’ve no experience of these, any advice or recommendations? Thanks

I’d second this stance. If you tell someone to press a button and nothing happens, the immediate thing to do is press it again. Especially if they are not that familiar with it or the instructions are that easy to understand. It is possible to mitigate this by programming the show not to fire the next item for a given period of time but if you are not well prepared as a tech even if nothing bad happens it adds that bui of panic and concern that the next cue might be wrong.

The mixer you linked to seems ok for an analog option, if you do go down a digital option without faders the A&H qu-sb has done me well.

100% you will be more popular if you hand some hardware with a 3.5mm jack or xlr’s on it, and with all your files in order set with the right in and outs.Ideally with any known ducking / volume adjustments pre done. If it is exactly the same each show I would consider recording the whole thing with the editing done and load it on to a media player (a bright sign is my favourite) I’d have a local push button with go on it and a remote clicker, and I would cue the music myself on stage. Obviously with a laptop or files for backup. That way you can be confident in hitting all the cues bang on. Any sound engineer should be able to help you on the day but if you have done a good bit of work they will be happy.

I was just saying this is quite an unusual thing to do, as modules are normally made for one particular control manufacturer. Personally I prefer the Novastar system over Linsn, its been a lot more reliable and rugged in my experience. That’s what I had read and watched online, many people saying the Novastar kit is probably where most people will end up after trying others, so with the new wall coming my way I thought I would save the trouble and pay that bit extra. While looking at the many sellers of led modules I’ve never noticed any saying one particular manufacturer. I’ve seen a few with all of them listed so my assumption was the modals are pretty standard so was expecting there not to be a problem as long as I get the settings correct. Obviously there would be exceptions and my assumptions could definitely be wrong. Thanks Thanks for this, it makes a little sense to me. So what your saying is that the e is an additional data line to improve the scan rate. If that’s the case I should be seeing an image on the screen but potentially with doubled up lines or lines missed?

Thanks for the reply. The receiver card has a hub75E connector but the module is hub75. The only references on this are YLP10-16x16-11-346 on the plastic frame which is how I found the item linked to above, and P10c1616-5TD5 on the circuit board which returns no results on Google, if I remove the 5TD5 you get this http://persian.led-billboard-display.com/quality-347453-high-resolution-led-display-modules-full-color-rgb.html which is very similar but the board is slightly different layout and the board colour is green where as mine is blue. The receiving chip s are Chipone ICN2026DF the Decode chip (at least this number is found in the software as a decode chip) is SM74HC138D and there are 2 more chips which I thought were also decode chips as the number is close to the other decode chip SM74HC245D and 4 other smaller chips 4953B TF342C Is there any compatibility with Hub75 and the E if I disconnect the E pin? if you know from your playing. Thanks

Thanks again for your reply. I suspect your right with the Novastar compatibility, the receiver card has HUB75E connectors where as the Linsn had HUB75 I assume these are not backwards compatible. I'm just a little confused with the Novastar and Linsn software, both are very similar and have a smart setup option, the receiver chip is not listed but there is a common selection and the decode chip is listed, I don't really get anything meaningful out of either, both ask for the chip information and then just move on to a top left image onscreen asking do you see a blank screen or do you see the desktop, I see scramble and there's not an option for that. Not sure if you have to enter some more information before running the smart setting part. All the videos I've watched don't show any scrambling. Is there a blueroom style forum dedicated to LED out there? Not sure which way to read your last comment, are you saying why would you convert from linen to Novastar, linen is much better, or are you saying that LED models are normally made for one particular control manufacturer. My reasoning is that I have a new wall on it's way to me which is based on Novastar, so I have purchased a spare sender and receiver for this new wall as a backup, I thought as I'm not having much luck with the linsn on the old wall I'd try this setup to familiarise myself with it, I'd not accounted for them not being compatible. As there are hundreds of sellers of various panels out there who don't specify much information that I'd be able to get the old wall back in to life for some playing around using something I know is not broken. The old wall came with 3 senders, a spare receiver, a spare module and spare cabling, so I've pretty much ruled out that the original wall has just blown beyond repair, but that said even though I have some config files that look to be named as though they should work, uploading them doesn't seem to work. Either LED is beyond me or this old wall has serious issues but as I've tried from scratch with a new sender, new cabling, new module I'm just confused now. I might have now blown some of the spares with the HUB75 and 75E mismatch! :-( Thanks again for your time Just for reference the old wall modules look very similar to this. https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Full-Color-Outdoor-Waterproof-Programmable-P10_60297917461.html?spm=a2700.7724857.normal_offer.d_image.37377bcbirfvOv

Hi thanks for the reply. Yes I’ve been running the smart setup where it asks for the driver chip but the one on the board is not listed so tried the generic option and also tried the closest Marco (there’s one with just a couple of numbers different) to the one on the board with no joy, it also asks for the decode chip and that is listed. I have a few rcfg files from the person who previously had it and the headline settings look the same. I had it earlier where there was a distinct line horizontally across the screen every 6 or so lines and if I moved the mouse to a certain part of the laptop screen I got movement but it affected the entire row. There was definitely some movement.