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ComClone - Has anyone got it working reliably?


DanSteely

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I would certainly be interested in 5-10 if the price was as good as being discussed. Does anyone have any idea of reasonably priced headphones to use that are similar to the normal single muff items we all use with the Tecpro etc gear.

 

Well I've had long experience of buying (and replacing, and replacing) cheap headsets, and the answer is no, if you want something similar to the tecpro ones you have to pay loadsamoney. You can get aviation-type ones at reasonable price but they look daft in a theatre.

I decided to go down the route of sub-£10 ones from CPC and replace them when they break. But they do break quite often.

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Brian has explained the reason why the 22R resistor is there and he is quite right. It is so that both op-amps can contribute to driving the load and nothing to do with the gain or frequency response as I had assumed.

 

Neil

 

 

My circuit theory (& simulations) tell me that the R26= 33R in the left hand circuit and R27=22R in the RH circuit are superflous. They neither help nor hinder.

As we've already ascertained, the original ComClone has an error in that part of the schematic. However, the 22R in the Clearcom schematic is most definitely required.

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TBH I would want something substantial, but if we are talking sub 50 quid (circa) for parts etc for the belt pack, I wouldn't want to spend 150 on an original set of headphones. That said I would be happy to spend more than 15. Does anyone know of any compatible headphones with the current 4pin Tecpro set ups that are sub 100?

 

PS Sorry about the lack of a pound signs in my post! My number 3 key has stopped working :(

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Whilst I have my own stock of Plantronics headsets that I'd be using, if it also supported pc style headsets then the place to look is online gaming. They have a whole range of headsets that'd do the job.

 

Some that I've been looking at have inline mute and volume controls. They look to be soft keys though rather than proper switches. Does that suggest they're being powered from somewhere? The electret supply maybe? That'd need considering if we were wanting to use pc style headsets. There are some nice looking, chunky over the ear style headsets available for around the £30 mark.

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As I mentioned when I started this thread, I have limited end of year funds for this whole project and can't purchase expensive sets, so am forced to use PC type sets.

Our local Abbey (Romsey) has a video team who use and recommend these headsets (after trying lots of others): http://cpc.farnell.c...e-2072-00001000

 

The weak link in inexpensive headsets is often the cabling. As the cans are to be used in mono (parallel seems logical) replacing the cabling with a 1.5M of starquad (or other nice 4-core) wouldn't be to much of a chore or add lots of expense..

 

 

P.S. I've just seen that the Trust sets mentioned have an in-line volume/mic mute facility which I would want to loose...

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I can't see the impedance of the Trust sets but will email them. Looking at similar offerings on CPC (the ones who declare it) come out at 32R, so in series that would be 64R. Is that workable?

 

Regarding changing the cable: Would this fit the bill: http://www.audiospares.com/product.php?productid=1810&cat=0&page=

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PS Sorry about the lack of a pound signs in my post! My number 3 key has stopped working :(

 

Hold down Alt key. Type 156 on numeric keypad. Release Alt key.

 

There was a time when PC keyboards didn't have a UK layout, and one had to know how to get the £££ symbol...

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PS Sorry about the lack of a pound signs in my post! My number 3 key has stopped working :(

 

Hold down Alt key. Type 156 on numeric keypad. Release Alt key.

 

There was a time when PC keyboards didn't have a UK layout, and one had to know how to get the £££ symbol...

 

Oh I remember those days but as my memory is certainly not what it used to be I simply forgot the key combo. Anyway back on topic do we think this is a goer? I need to purchase some more sets and love the idea of the BlueClone ;)

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Hi Brian & others:

 

What was the case you were thinking of?.. Because I've just come across these and they might fit the bill: http://www.rapidonli...0x50x31-30-3750

 

Plastic ends, but might have to do because of budget.

 

...Or these from AliExpress in Blue!!!, with metal end caps.. $13.77USD = (£9.14UKP) inc delivery...http://www.aliexpres.../890880675.html

 

I think the idea discussed was to put the 3 Neutrik D Connectors on the bottom, side-by-side, which will require a joint footprint of 78 wide by 31 high which should just work..

 

Any thoughts?

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Sorry, If off Ill at the moment and clearly not thinking straight... The Blue enclosure is only 28.8 high and needs to be at least 31.00 for a D series

 

But you could use a different type of Neutrik like the B series, it should fit... http://www.neutrik.com/en/XLR/XLR-chassis-connectors/b-series/

 

I'll get back to bed..

 

... and that 28.8mm is the external dimension. The Neutrik NC3FABH2 & NC3MABH2 require a minimum of 25mm above the top surface of the PCB. I think Brian's plan is that all of the components are PCB mounted and assembled to the back panel. Then the PCB/back panel assembly would slide into the housing. The front panel would just have holes punched for the controls to come through.

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