Ynot Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 A job WAY too long in the pending pile is to secure an appropriate safety bond to each lantern in our inventory so we can be assured that there's one there when it's needed. Now, obviously the ideal way would be a metal crimp, but struggling to find open sided crimps that can be added to the bonds without being passed over the open ends of the steels - that may well be a simple case of not knowing what the blighters are called!A short term fix was suggested as using cable ties to strap the bonds when in place, but I'm not confident that this will fly, as I don't know whether the ties will melt or expand with the heat of the lanterns... So - thoughts, and suggestions guys & gals - what have you used that's suitable and not too expensive...? And as usual, my caveat that I'm after real-life experience abd comment, not "This sounds like it might work cos I saw it on the net". Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomHoward Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Have your bonds got a soft eye? If so, can you remove one side of the yoke, pass the eye over it, and re-attach? Time consuming but it's how our local hire supplier keep all their bonds attached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanhill Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 If you cable tie the bond to the yoke, it will not suffer the effects of heat. English Touring Opera's rig is modified as such. At another place, I cable tied the mains lead for all the Cantata Fresnels and PCs to the rear handle, and they are still fine, 10 years down the line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew C Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 +another for cableties, but... I'd be inclined to fix in such a way that the clip is close to the body of the lantern. When I did this many years ago using "key rings" and chains, some muppets looped the free end with the clip over the bar and back on the standing part. Thus relying on the keyring as part of the suspension system. Probably all right (in real life "will it fall" terms) but very dopey! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.k.roberts Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 I've used standard cable ties on lanterns up to 650W with no problems. If you want to be 'belt and braces', then heat resistant cable ties aren't hugely expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin D Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Have your bonds got a soft eye? If so, can you remove one side of the yoke, pass the eye over it, and re-attach? Time consuming but it's how our local hire supplier keep all their bonds attached.That's how I've always done it. Simple and relatively idiot proof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn Edwards Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Stage Electrics used (still use?) a copper swage type crimp on their bonds to form a loop round the yoke, so they do exist. Where you get them from is another question though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Some Bloke Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 We use cable ties with no problems at all. Just make sure the bond is under the yoke when you tie it in place or it's just too easy to wrap the bond over the bar without it going under the yoke and relying on the cable tie to take all the weight! (You'd be surprised how easy it is to get one wrong then spot the mistake - a bit like wiring up a 16A plug then realising you didn't put the back through the cable first!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.k.roberts Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 We use cable ties with no problems at all. Just make sure the bond is under the yoke when you tie it in place or it's just too easy to wrap the bond over the bar without it going under the yoke and relying on the cable tie to take all the weight! (You'd be surprised how easy it is to get one wrong then spot the mistake - a bit like wiring up a 16A plug then realising you didn't put the back through the cable first!). I don't tie the bond directly to the yoke, I form a loop round the yoke with the bond and cable tie the bond to itself; then this problem can't happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley R Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Yep, form a loop around the yoke with your safety, then cable tie where the two interconnect, then you can be certain that the safety will be taking the weight, and not the cable tie. Also unbolting the yoke and threading it through is good, but a lot more time consuming than the above method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 I have used these before, not too expensive either. They are quite strong as well so you can be sure they will stay with the lantern. Link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.k.roberts Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 I have used these before, not too expensive either. They are quite strong as well so you can be sure they will stay with the lantern. Link Do they not leave razor-like corners when the excess is trimmed off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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